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Close to the finish line, some of the fuel lines were in need of replacement as they were splitting at the ends. I grabbed a couple length of 5/16" and 1/4" low pressure hose from Napa and planned to buy fittings there too. I needed a 1/4 to 1/4 splice, a 1/4 to 1/4 barbed elbow, and a 5/16 to 1/4 adapter. All they had was the splice, so, I ordered the elbows from Amazon and made the step down adapter from brass stock I keep on hand for turning pilots for other tools. 1/4 side done The new piece is now a lifetime item, unlike the OEM plastic which disentigrated when I pulled the hose off The sharp eye will pick up on something odd in this pic, hint, not hose related... Here's the new 5/16" hose which runs between the carb rack and the pump, along with a fresh length of fiberglass braided sleeve insulation, looks a little nicer, eh And tied in to the pump line with the special adapter I added the elbow later; the bike ran without it, but I didn't want to chance the hose collapsing on itself at the bend in warmer temperatures. With that done, I pumped the old gas out of the tank and then stuck it on the bike along with most of the body I filled the crankcase with Rotella T6 and the cooling system with Prestone 50/50, then popped the front fairing on. Ready for test ride!

I really don't see any other bike. 😁 Everything else appears to have been beat with an ugly stick.

Thanks! Shameless plug... If anyone wants this type of service for their bike... I'm available 😄

Let. Me. Know. when you plan to do dyno stuff with the 8G. I have my stock, 3 different lengths of mufflers, a stock and a modded airbox with candyred's glued-and-sanded-smooth R6 velocity stacks installed, clean stock, and <500 mile pipercross filters, the RapidBike Racing module, with the "override back to stock for CARB compliance" module on standby along with a bluetooth kit and my own laptop with the rapid bike tuning software on it. we could do all sorts of different stages of tune. I'd even kick around the idea of whether or not changing the drivetrain gearing picks up measurable power. could pick up a stock 520, and +1 520 front to measure up to 9 rear teeth's worth of drive gear adjustment. I would adore being involved, but I need a few months of advance time so I can put in leave with the navy to spend the odd 2-4 days wrenching and dyno pulling if I had my way.

Thanks MS! I love the smell of empirical data in the morning...smells like...victory. (pardon the Apocalypse Now paraphrasing) Sounds like a possible course of action would be to install the PCV well in advance of the fast-approaching dyno date (Jan 26), road test it with a zero map, then with a map from the Dynojet website, and see how she rolls. We’re still open to additional input, data points, suggestions, or warnings.

As far as the PCV goes - I would say maybe. From the discussion here, there seems to be some kind of issue with the newer firmware and 5th gens. I have been running mine with no issues since 2010, I have also never updated the firmware. I run autotune all the time with a vacuum switch hooked up to turn the autotune off during overrun - I was getting really wonky trim values at low throttle openings until this was performed. I have tried running with autotune disabled and noticed no ill effects; of course this is just running the stored map built from the autotune data. If it is of consequence, I have calibrated the internal "gear indicator" and adjusted target AFRs for each gear, throttle position, and RPM. My O2 sensor is positioned in the 2nd merge collector (all 4 cyl) and I don't run any special offsets for the front vs. rear banks. I've been strongly considering MyTuningBike for the ability to run O2 sensors in each bank, but what I have works fairly well and the cost of entry for MTB is steep.

If you get my way I'll let you ride it lol. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out.

WOW! Looks so beautiful and to know it's not just superficial. Amazing tear down and rebuild.

I got lucky with that, had a long period of rain and 1 partly cloudy day in the mid 30s before it dropped back down below freezing. So all the road salt was temporarily washed away and I got out long enough to find that it runs well, there is a headlight issue, and to take these pics: The headlight was cutting in and out, no relay on this bike, so basically a check of the wiring with the first stop being the switch gear. Wiring diagram leads us to the right switch assembly as the first possible culprit, and heres's what I found... Contacts were quite dirty, and an ear missing off the start button itself led to the button sticking between the contacts, meaning it would feel almost normal as the button was depressed to engage the starter, and it would spring back enough to disengage the starter, but it was not returning fully to the first set of contacts to re-engage the headlights. I fixed this by cleaning the switch and replacing the button with a spare. That's fixed that issue perfectly and after applying grease to the handlebar, we're good to go again.

I got to sit on Mini-Carvers 5th/6th Gen at the last Summer Summit in South Dakota. (Yeah, he offered to let me ride it but he's about a foot taller and the bike is definitely set up for him). Super well thought out and executed. He showed me the cast-in boss on the Fifth Gen engine that he bolted the VTEC solenoid to-like Honda knew someone was going to do this swap. A RWB 6th Gen WITH cam gear whine AND dual Staintunes!? Outstanding. If I win the lottery... Oh, his dad rides a 6th Gen WITH a TORO Charger, yes quite the team.

Easiest way for me was dropping my 5th gen engine in my 6th gen frame. Now I get the beautiful gear whine, and the wonderful sound of dual underseat staintunes 😁