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To Bore Or Not To Bore?


jason24robo

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Bummer Jason, pretty sure these are treated & sleeved cylinders and can't be bored. maybe honed though.

What model VFR are you working with? used motors have gotten pretty cheap around here.

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03 non abs

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

I think BR has the easiest most cost effective solution to get your bike bike on the road... used engine swap.

This is from the 5th gen shop manual but they are the same sleeve composition. If the temperature is manged the sleeves can be rebored like a conventional sleeve...

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The 6th gen parts fiche shows oversize pistons available of .25 and .50 (which I interpret to mean 25 thousandths and 50 thousandths over), so I would infer from that that boring is an option. Before deciding that however, I would wonder if whatever caused the scoring (lack of lubrication, debris in the oil, etc) has also affected the bearings / crankshaft journals. I might be inclined to pull a rod and main cap and see what they look like. If they're similar, just the machine work to get it all back in spec is going to be more than a low mile engine. My $.02.

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If you do swap engines, you might consider going 5th gen. PainterBob and HighSideNZ did that (though he did a lot of internal engine mods) and has a sweet sounding 6th gen! The coil packs take some doing but it's not insurmountable.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/81877-5th-gen-engine-in-a-6th-green/

This one is very long and you'll be pages and pages in before you get to his 5th gen engine build and how it came out in his 6th gen. :fing02: If nothing else, it's a really interesting read.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/75067-anyone-ever-reboredoverbored-a-56th-gen/

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The 6th gen parts fiche shows oversize pistons available of .25 and .50 (which I interpret to mean 25 thousandths and 50 thousandths over), ...

It's metric so that's 0.25 & 0.50 millimeters of piston diameter not thousandths of an inch (0.025 & 0.050) like an American machine shop would measure.

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Yep, they are boreable as long as you find a machineshop that knows about MMC sleeves.

Mine came out really well but it was a big overbore compared to 0.25mm/0.5mm

Dependant upon the distance the bike has travelled, if you were going to bore it you'd want to do bearings etc whilst it is down.

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The 6th gen parts fiche shows oversize pistons available of .25 and .50 (which I interpret to mean 25 thousandths and 50 thousandths over).

Why oh why is the USA so stuck in the past, Honda = Japanese company, they are a Metric country, about the only things you'll find with Imperial measurements are the chain/wheels/tyres, just because that's how those things are commonly known.

Everything else will be mm's, the over sizes are .25 & .5mm as in 72mm STD, 72.25mm OS1, 72.5mm OS2.

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I am tempted to suggest over boring due to the slight performance gain, but the cylinder scoring that you encountered is extremely rare and it is a red flag, so I would scrap it and look for a clean low mileage engine. I really don't know what could cause that kind of wear, short of extreme abuse or miles, oil contamination, some sand or grit getting past the air filter or failed rings etc....

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To me the scoring look very much like a partial seize.

As in it has been extremely hot/ran out of coolant or similar.

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The 6th gen parts fiche shows oversize pistons available of .25 and .50 (which I interpret to mean 25 thousandths and 50 thousandths over).

Why oh why is the USA so stuck in the past, Honda = Japanese company, they are a Metric country, about the only things you'll find with Imperial measurements are the chain/wheels/tyres, just because that's how those things are commonly known.

Everything else will be mm's, the over sizes are .25 & .5mm as in 72mm STD, 72.25mm OS1, 72.5mm OS2.

Mostly because too many of us are to stupid to change. We almost thought about it a few decades ago.

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To me the scoring look very much like a partial seize.

As in it has been extremely hot/ran out of coolant or similar.

Good point, Over heated and the piston/rings expand and p2w clearance goes to zero and we have contact. I always have nightmares where I forget to flip on my manual fan switch and I look down and see +250 degrees and a red light flashing. This isn't going to help lol.

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Hey CR, why haven't you got the manual switch rigged in parallel with the Fan temp switch ? That way you never forget & it will remind you that you have ! Best of both worlds.

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I have my manual switch set up for normal, forced on, forced off. I have forgotten the position it was in a few times. Over the winter I'm going to rig up some sort of LED indicator light(s) that are dash mounted so I'm reminded. If I stay on top of it it definitely helps keep the temps down.

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