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Painted For Front Forks


ca315

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Decided the forks needed a rebuild and a repaint whilst I was at it. Decided to go for black instead of the standard sliver. I've got nickle plated rims, so the forks are a distraction. Didn’t want standard black, it is a little too harsh, wanted a very dark grey metallic.
Searched the net and couldn't find any photos of VFRs with black forks, so I've attached a few.
Finally settled on VHT Engine Enamel, black pearl. More like a very dark grey and a subtle metallic finish. I’ve painted a few item on bikes using this product, provides a very tough and durable coating. Good for all of those little bits like foot peg brackets, etc. The clear coat will take the stone chips.
Here are the steps:
You will need: VHT Engine Enamel Undercoat, Black Pearl and Clear Coat. Note that the Engine enamels require curing for 1 hour at 200F, or 93C. Oven works great. I put a few temp bolts into the forks sit on whilst they baked.
Technique is:
  • Bead blast the two forks
  • Water pressure wash to make sure the insides are clean and no residual grit.

The undercoat, black and clear are applied as a continuous process. Best done with the temperature around 72F/22C

  • 2 light coats of undercoat, let dry for 10 minutes between coats, then a final wet coat.
  • Let undercoat dry for 30 minutes.
  • 2 light coats of black pearl, let dry for 10 minutes between coats, then a final wet coat.
  • Let black pearl dry for 30 minutes.
  • 2 light coats of clear, let dry for 10 minutes between coats, then a final wet coat.
  • Let clear dry for 3 hours.
  • Bake in the oven at 200F/90C for 1 hour.
  • Let them cool for around 1 hour, then they are ready to re-assemble.
The forks have Wilbers springs, Motul 7.5 weight fork oil and SKF seals. Also put a new Metzler M7 on the front, and pads are EBC sintered bronze.

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post-28916-0-82528800-1443783243.jpg

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Rattle canned mine (primer+black+gloss can <$10), so far so good....

luckysheep_zps3532fdcc.jpg

but yours look nicer still!

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I like black forks.

I ended up replacing my warped rotors with Galfer aftermarket units with black carriers -- really looks good with the black fork legs.

8746779530_a252b37f5b_c.jpg

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IMAG0568_zpslxireu2b.jpg

I like black forks.

How has that gold held up? I wanted mine done in gold, but my PC guy said it would take many coats and it would chip easily? I held off for now until I can find an 8 spoke

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It's held up about like I expected for a rattle can job. Pretty decent, with minor wear around the lug holes from taking the back wheel off. It seems to have faded a little lighter, which is actually closer to the look I was going for.

I'm no powdercoating expert, but I see no reason gold should be that much different to coat with.

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I did a set of gold rims for my wife's hornet. Bead blasted, then went to a panel shop and had them spray painted metallic gold with a clear coat. Clear coat takes the chips. Still look perfect.

post-28916-0-78578400-1443871693.jpg

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It's held up about like I expected for a rattle can job. Pretty decent, with minor wear around the lug holes from taking the back wheel off. It seems to have faded a little lighter, which is actually closer to the look I was going for.

I'm no powdercoating expert, but I see no reason gold should be that much different to coat with.

For my bike and its condition, maybe rattle can is what it will get

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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It's held up about like I expected for a rattle can job. Pretty decent, with minor wear around the lug holes from taking the back wheel off. It seems to have faded a little lighter, which is actually closer to the look I was going for.

I'm no powdercoating expert, but I see no reason gold should be that much different to coat with.

For my bike and its condition, maybe rattle can is what it will get

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

IMAG0109_1_zps1zevgoni.jpg

I used Duplicolor non wheel Gold on my car and Duplicolor wheel paint gold on the bike. The wheel paint comes out lighter, more like a vintage gold, which suits the red VFR better, I MO.

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If you want the best possible fork lower, then hard anodising is the way to go, get them vapor or bead blasted first to remove all surface corrosion. Then the anodising process will coat inside as well, which reduces oil contamination, which in turn improves the longevity of the damping oil.

You can either use the final colour anodising or use it as a base coating & paint over it in the exact colour of your choice.

Those black lowers do look good.

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