Member Contributer MarkDetroit Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 I've measured the resistance, alternator side, between the 3 yellow wires on the block connector and all read 0 ohms. I've also checked the continuity between each connector and earth (engine bolt) and there is continuity for each of them. From my limited understanding, that means the alternator is foooooked (a technical term). Correct? If this were the case I think you'd be getting no charging output from the stator but your voltage readings don't show that. It warrants a recheck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Rechecked twice, same readings. Anyway, new alternator arrives tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer adeyren Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Skids Wont that 5th gen stator you have fit the 6th gen.Just thinking if it does use it to test the bike before you fit the new one so if need be you could send it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Skids Wont that 5th gen stator you have fit the 6th gen.Just thinking if it does use it to test the bike before you fit the new one so if need be you could send it back. No m8, they're different sizes and aren't interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer adeyren Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Just a thought. Don't know much about 6th gens, come to think about it don't know much about 5th gens either, thats why im here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACIFICMAN Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Hello All, Jumping in here. I replaced my 2002 stator and rotor with the "upgraded" parts from Honda about 2 years ago at roughly 45,000 miles. My old stator was full burnt up. Since the change over, including as comprehensive as I was able to, wiring/ground check/clean/Ox-garding and "yellow stator connection replacement with a terminal block. A couple of weeks ago I added a voltmeter wired to the battery terminal with a 3 AMP fuse inline and a push button switch on the positive leg. All fitted, soldered and shrink wrapped. All works nicely. However, I get a consistent 12.5-6 with the bike off, it starts fine. When running I get 13.5-7 regardless of RPM, lights on or off. My Moto Batt is closing in on 3 years old and endured and survived the stator frying. Side note, when I opened up the battery compartment to do the install I found the Negative lead to the battery considerably loose, but still attached, this has been rectified. My Question: Charging issue? Aging battery issue? Or a well regulated and consistent charging system that bears no further concern? Thanks in advance for any input, thoughts and suggestions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Hello All, Jumping in here. I replaced my 2002 stator and rotor with the "upgraded" parts from Honda about 2 years ago at roughly 45,000 miles. My old stator was full burnt up. Since the change over, including as comprehensive as I was able to, wiring/ground check/clean/Ox-garding and "yellow stator connection replacement with a terminal block. A couple of weeks ago I added a voltmeter wired to the battery terminal with a 3 AMP fuse inline and a push button switch on the positive leg. All fitted, soldered and shrink wrapped. All works nicely. However, I get a consistent 12.5-6 with the bike off, it starts fine. When running I get 13.5-7 regardless of RPM, lights on or off. My Moto Batt is closing in on 3 years old and endured and survived the stator frying. Side note, when I opened up the battery compartment to do the install I found the Negative lead to the battery considerably loose, but still attached, this has been rectified. My Question: Charging issue? Aging battery issue? Or a well regulated and consistent charging system that bears no further concern? Thanks in advance for any input, thoughts and suggestions... What voltage did you have when first convert to stator and R\R ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACIFICMAN Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I got 13.9 at 2500 and 5000 rpm right after I did the stator and rotor/flywheel. The R/R is the original. I am now getting 13.5 to 13.7. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Sounds like you've done all the right things. IMO it would be better though if it were getting in at least the 14's when charging. Is the reading from the on-board voltmeter confirmed by a shop meter - that would rule out any bias in the reading. My 5th gen was charging in the mid 13's until I replaced the R/R and now it's a consistent 14.5v. Someplace I bookmarked an article that describes how R/R's gradually fail with time and heat cycles - I'll see if I can find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACIFICMAN Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Thanks! That would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 9, 2015 Thanks! That would be great. Here it is - it's on the SuperHawk forum. It's posted by a member, but he seems to do a good job of explaining the "why" of how Thyristor and MOSFET R/R's work differently and why they fail - see post 3 for that. As you read down through the posts, he also goes on to explain the nomenclature and how you can tell which is which from the part #. http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/mosfet-regulator-rectifiers-why-how-25117/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 9, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 9, 2015 New coils arrived today. Will be replacing tomorrow but one question; can someone confirm that I definitely have to drain the oil first beforehand? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PACIFICMAN Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Yes, You do. If not it will drain itself when you open the case. May I ask why you opted to use this brand as opposed to Hondas OEM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 9, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 9, 2015 Yes, You do. If not it will drain itself when you open the case. May I ask why you opted to use this brand as opposed to Hondas OEM? Price mainly, and AFAIK, they are a good brand. I've replaced the alternator on my 5th Gen but it was a few years ago and I had it in my head that there was a way to do it without draining the oil but you've confirmed what I thought. Did it anyway but as it's Saturday night, I've stopped and will finish it off tomorrow - I thought I had a new oil filter in my cupboard but it turns out I don't so I'll have to pop out tomorrow anyway and get one before refilling her. Alternator cover came away quite easily. I'm not sure, but that looks like it's been overheating to me. New one ready to go in. I've managed to remove most of the old gasket but there are a few stubborn patches on the cover so I've soaked it in WD40 and will remove it tomorrow. I use a toothbrush with the head cut off and filed down to a sharp edge which removes the gasket easily but doesn't scratch the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer adeyren Posted May 9, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 9, 2015 Definitely overheating and am no expert. Wish i had checked mine when i did an oil change yesterday. Will put that on "things to do on an oil change" list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2015 Still digging through bookmarks -here's another article on stator failures. Maybe nothing all that new - but it is interesting to see how little it takes to short out a stator. http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/MotorcyclePrep/statorfailure.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2015 FRIED !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2015 It's quite helpful to have 2 or 3 sacrificial bolts that are 3 to 5 inches long - cut the heads off and thread in the case. Makes getting the cover on a breeze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 10, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2015 Job done. R/R in place. Readings across the battery now as follows: IGN ENG V OFF OFF 12.7 ON OFF 12.0 ON IDLE 14.0 ON 5k rpm 14.1 Thanks for the help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanyol Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Vtec's almost Always Fry stators and symptom is Under charging. 5th gens almost Always Fry R/Rs and symptoms can be Under or overcharging. If not able to run the Standard checks with a multimeter and Resigned to swapping out components trial and Error style, keep the Aforementioned tendencies in mind and swap the stator first on VTECs and the R/R first on 5th gens as rule of Thumb. The very rare Times I've seen an R/R go on a VTEC it always overcharged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2015 Thanks! That would be great. Here it is - it's on the SuperHawk forum. It's posted by a member, but he seems to do a good job of explaining the "why" of how Thyristor and MOSFET R/R's work differently and why they fail - see post 3 for that. As you read down through the posts, he also goes on to explain the nomenclature and how you can tell which is which from the part #. http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/mosfet-regulator-rectifiers-why-how-25117/ Skids - glad you got that sorted. Looking good! Here's one more thread on this from the Triumph forum. It's a bit dated and doesn't cover much that hasn't been on VFRD through numerous threads, though I did pick up a few pieces from it and found it interesting reading. If nothing else it's nice to know that Honda is not the only marque that suffers from this malady. http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 11, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2015 No issues on my 170 mile commute today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 11, 2015 me too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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