Member Contributer Skids Posted May 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 Yesterday, my 54k mile 08 plate 6th Gen started giving me some strange indications on the voltmeter I have fitted; Sub-3k rpm <12v, >3k rpm (after a few seconds) charging fine (green). Voltmeter is a Sparkbright Eclipse, decode here. Checked some voltages last night but left the numbers at home so can post them later but suffice to say I don't think it's the battery as it was showing good voltage. Found some corrosion in the larger of the 2 reg/rec connectors and cleaned that up but again this morning, was getting some poor charging indications (low 12v) and I couldn't get it to go >13v above 3k rpm like yesterday. I struggle understanding electrickery and can do some more diagnosis tonight/this weekend but any helpful thoughts would be appreciated. I'm guessing it's the r/r on the way out but happy to be advised otherwise. I notice DSS don't stock an r/r for the 6th Gen so I assume it is a different part # than for the 5th Gen and therefore incompatible??? Wemoto stock 2.....is the more expensive one better? Thanks for any assisstance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 Figures from yesterday (will pop out shortly and see if they've changed): IGNITION ENGINE voltage across battery terminals after cleaning connector just now OFF OFF 13.04v 13.4v 13.04v ON OFF 12.25v 12.5v (lights are ON) 12.15v ON IDLE 14.6v 14.6v 12.3v ON 5k rpm 14.77v 14.77v 14.4v Of note, at IDLE just now, the reading started at 12.3v then went randomly up & down as low as 2v and at 5k rpm, it started in the low 13's then moved up to 14.4v. Below approx. 3k rpm, after a few seconds, it goes back to low 12's. Is there any more diagnostics I can do in order to ascertain whether it is the r/r or the alternator? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 You fixed it !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 You fixed it !!! Unfortunately not. Now quite consistently around low 12's at idle when it should be charging. It did seem to sort itself yesterday but this morning's start up showed it was still doing it, even though the r/r was cold (I've heard that it can overheat and cause problems). I think I edited the above post after your post.....sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 6, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 You fixed it !!! Unfortunately not. Now quite consistently around low 12's at idle when it should be charging. It did seem to sort itself yesterday but this morning's start up showed it was still doing it, even though the r/r was cold (I've heard that it can overheat and cause problems). I think I edited the above post after your post.....sorry. I would next disconnect the rr and start the bike and check stator output and if it good replace the rr. But with the mileage I would replace both . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 6, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 6, 2015 Boing......anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted May 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 ^^ What Switch said. Stators and R/R's do get tired - when cold they can seem ok but then as they get hot they can display erratic behavior. At 54,000 miles, IMO it's almost a given that it could use a new stator. I had a similar issue with voltage readings - turned out I had not tightened the ground from the voltmeter to the frame. Could be an intermittent connection someplace. Some good preventive maintenance is to go over all the charging system connections and treat with Oxgard - it should help rule out any bad connections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 Ok, thanks guys. I figured it's either the r/r or the alternator but are there any tests I can do to identify which it is? I'd rather buy a replacement for an unserviceable item than for one that is working fine and waste my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 search here for "the drill"....contains everything you need to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 search here for "the drill"....contains everything you need to know Thanks m8. Tried that but the only result was your post above. Was there another search parameter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 Can anyone confirm whether this is the Mosfet replacement reg/rec that is mentioned on other threads as a good replacement on an 08 6th Gen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 7, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 I like your thinkin ! ^^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 I like your thinkin ! ^^^^ Was searching the web and saw this.....much cheaper than OEM and just wanted to know if it was the Mosfet one referred to on here so many times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNRabbit Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 search here for "the drill"....contains everything you need to know that's because when you searched in the search bar in the upper right corner you didn't change it from this topic to forum. Thanks m8. Tried that but the only result was your post above. Was there another search parameter? The Drill: Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 search here for "the drill"....contains everything you need to know that's because when you searched in the search bar in the upper right corner you didn't change it from this topic to forum. Thanks m8. Tried that but the only result was your post above. Was there another search parameter? The Drill: Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. That would explain it! Doh. That looks like a weekend job to me, thanks! I've already gone & ordered a new r/r anyway so if that arrives tomorrow, I'll probably fit that first and see if it has any influence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeakingLewis Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 try this http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures Im having R/r problems too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 7, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 7, 2015 try this http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures Im having R/r problems too Thanks Leaky, that looks very useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Can anyone confirm whether this is the Mosfet replacement reg/rec that is mentioned on other threads as a good replacement on an 08 6th Gen? Skids - As I have stated multiple times, the only replacement R/R that I will use to repair a charging system is the Shindengen FH020AA availiable at www.roadstercycle.com --- I have not heard a single one go out. -- If you go cheap, it will cost you more in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Can anyone confirm whether this is the Mosfet replacement reg/rec that is mentioned on other threads as a good replacement on an 08 6th Gen? Skids - As I have stated multiple times, the only replacement R/R that I will use to repair a charging system is the Shindengen FH020AA availiable at www.roadstercycle.com --- I have not heard a single one go out. -- If you go cheap, it will cost you more in the long run. Thanks Mello. Too late now but thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 So, new Mosfet r/r arrived. Battery charged overnight & left a few hours. Fitted Mosfel r/r the readings are: IGN ENG OFF OFF 12.7v ON OFF 12.2v ON IDLE 12.4v ON 5k rpm 13.8v So it doesn't appear to have solved the problem - under volt below approx. 3000-4000rpm. Would that suggest the alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 I've measured the resistance, alternator side, between the 3 yellow wires on the block connector and all read 0 ohms. I've also checked the continuity between each connector and earth (engine bolt) and there is continuity for each of them. From my limited understanding, that means the alternator is foooooked (a technical term). Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Stator ! And take some pic's when you remove it please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Stator ! And take some pic's when you remove it please. Will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 I've measured the resistance, alternator side, between the 3 yellow wires on the block connector and all read 0 ohms. I've also checked the continuity between each connector and earth (engine bolt) and there is continuity for each of them. From my limited understanding, that means the alternator is foooooked (a technical term). Correct? That does sound like a fried stator, but to make sure -- you checked pin to pin on the stator side and got zero ohms between each? And then each pin connector on the stator side to earth and got continuity? -- I just ask because its unusual for all 3 legs to be bad at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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