Member Contributer burnes45 Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 New to me 97 VFR coming up on 40K. I have been mostly communing about 3 miles 1 way. Here's my concern, My engine never reaches full operation temperature so condensation never gets burned out of the oil. So do the synthetics hold up better under these conditions or should I change my oil every 2K like I've been doing? I use Honda oil and filters. Dont need to know what is best oil just if I can extend my oil change intervals with no harm to motor. Thanks. Picture of late 60's HONDA 125 GP Daytona winner 4cyl 4valves per cyl. Don't know how many gears. The beginning!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfr Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 Your bike is gonna start suffering from "soccer Mom syndrome" if you don't open it up and let it run every once and a while... All oils are gonna end up with condensation moisture if you don't get them hot enough... water is a by-product of petroleum fuel combustion. Synthetics are better at many things but to my knowledge they won't sequester the moisture so it can' t contact the metal & bearing surfaces. Take the long way home every couple days and have some fun... jeez, the rest of us are sufferin' through single digit temps and your takin' the shortest distance between two points in the Sunshine State... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrurknee Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 Sounds to me like your thermostat is stuck in the open position. My VFRs all reach operating temp in approx. 2 miles or less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 New to me 97 VFR coming up on 40K. I have been mostly communing about 3 miles 1 way. Here's my concern, My engine never reaches full operation temperature so condensation never gets burned out of the oil. So do the synthetics hold up better under these conditions or should I change my oil every 2K like I've been doing? I use Honda oil and filters. Dont need to know what is best oil just if I can extend my oil change intervals with no harm to motor. Thanks. 014.JPG Picture of late 60's HONDA 125 GP Daytona winner 4cyl 4valves per cyl. Don't know how many gears. The beginning!! If you are concerned about oil temperature, why not take a detour once in a while. For most people driving a VFR is not a punishment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 Extra warm up time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My 6th gen takes 6 minutos to get to VTEC operation temp at 12°C ambient temp.36ºC in 2'26"55ºC in 4'40"64ºC in 6'12"And on the road At 100 km/h and 9-10°C amb. temp. it stabilizes at 80°CYou can't wait 6 or 7 minutes?As already mentioned, Perhaps your thermostat is stuck open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Sounds to me like your thermostat is stuck in the open position. My VFRs all reach operating temp in approx. 2 miles or less. This+ as far as water temps, of course the transmission takes longer . I don't see you getting any benefit with synthetic, but you might run a light 30 weight oil since the oil never thins out under this scenario. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted January 10, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 A picture speaks a thousand words..... This is what oil looks like/contains when it is cold Which disappears with the engine/oil heated up properly 3 miles commute... .get a bicycle!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer burnes45 Posted January 10, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted January 10, 2015 I'll Have to check the thermostat. Did not know what was normal I've never seen the thermometer above bracket on top off the 'C' except 1 time when I was stuck in stop and go traffic on a 90' day for 30-40 minutes. Also the only time I've heard the fans come on. Even on long rides the gauge stays just above the 'C'. Where is normal operation position of gauge? Who knew I had a problem thought I had an oil question. Shows the knowledge and expertise here. So now I'm changing the thermostat and coolant along with the oil. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 What water temps are you seeing by the time you get to work, or on the freeway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 We should Keep in mind yours is a 4th gen 1997 VFR750 and Thus has a Front Mounted radiator Which cools very effectively, as Opposed to my 6th gen Which has side-Mounted Ones and is Thus a hotter-Running Machine than yours. I believe the 4th gen's temperature Indicator usually sits where you have mentioned... so The only way to Know or Suspect the thermostat is to see how Long the bike Takes to get up to operating temp and seeing as you Don't have a Digital readout on that Model I'm not sure how you would go about that. Actually now that I realize yours is a 4th gen I don't Know if it actually has a thermostat. Hahaha!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GadiantonRob Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 94-97 VFR's run very cool, and the temp gauges are pessimistic. I replaced my thermostat when I first got my 95, but to my dismay, found that the temp needle didn't do anything different than before. Feel the hoses that run to the radiator when first starting up, and if they get warm with the engine, then you may need a new thermostat. Also, it's worth noting that thermostat replacement means pulling carbs, but if your lucky enough to have already removed the chrome PAIR injection lines, removal could be facilitated just by removing the right fairing. Albeit, it won't be fun, still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted January 11, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted January 11, 2015 I have a 3rd gen, which is all very similar. Tstat replacement is MUCH simpler with the PAIR removed. Go to harbor freight and buy a IR thermometer. Should be less than $10. That will answer many unknowns. I also replaced my Tstat because she never seemed to get warm, and the needle only got moved about 1/4". After the Tstat got replaced, no change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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