Denny12 Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 With the mods I've made to the handlebars, I'm in the need for a longer brake line. Anyone have a recommendation for custom made brake lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted November 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 18, 2014 I believe that Galfer, Speigler and HEL all make custom lines. Galfer I heard from one rider personally took real good care of him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dustin Posted November 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 18, 2014 FWIW, Chris at HEL Canada has always given me excellent customer service. I have put HEL lines on a few bikes now and he came through with making up lines for a 1986 FZ600 I had. I'm not sure if HEL USA is as good to deal with but I can vouch for their quality Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Coremoto.com Awesome company, I have a number of sets of their lines now, they're great! Just give them a call they will set you right up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny12 Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks for the leads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 $148 3 line combo... includes crush washers... and nice new stainless banjo bolts... and the color choices are the best in the industry... I don't work for them or get any kickbacks, just love the product! http://www.coremoto.com/Core_Moto_Performance_Brake_Lines_s/306.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3racer Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 You'll have to do the custom lines. They dont offer anything for the VFR1200....unless im dumb and missed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 You'll have to do the custom lines. They dont offer anything for the VFR1200....unless im dumb and missed it? Yes... the OP was looking for a custom length line. 2 phone calls max to CoreMoto will get you what you need. I forgot to mention, they have AWESOME turn around time on custom lines! Two of my custom orders were placed and turned to parts in hand within a week! (They are in FL, I am in NY) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f3racer Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 yep....im dumb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yrros Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Hey, Let us know how you get on with this. The lines on these bikes are quite complex (http://cdn.partzilla.com/diagram/honda/14MGEA/ILLUST/MGE4F/0540A.png), take a look down your front brake line from the lever (part F-17-1 in the link above). It goes into a connector that takes it into a bike mounted block which then runs to steel pipes. When I was thinking of doing this - I don't think i need to with my bar set-up now. I was thinking about extending the connection between the master cylinder and the current connection using a short bit of pipe and some standard connectors. Something like using a blocked off double banjo bolt connector with the end capped off to coupled two banjo bolts togethter - one going to the master cylinder, one to the exisitng brake line. Some may say this not so good because it adds an extra connection to the brake system but honda didnt seem to mind having many connections and you'd at least be able to keep an eye on it there. A 2" line would probably be more than enough. Making brake lines is not hard and you'll have plenty of room for attempts if you buy a meter of stainless line. Good luck. Ant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rider14 Posted December 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 2, 2014 That box is the ABS. If you need new lines, you should replace all lines between the bars and the box. -Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 That box is the ABS. If you need new lines, you should replace all lines between the bars and the box. -Dan Hmm, and why is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rider14 Posted December 3, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2014 Looks like the lines from the Box to the calipers are solid, meaning they don't need to be replaced. I guess you could add an extension to the stock lines, I've just never seen it done. Cost of full lines as opposed to an extension not likely to be that different, but I guess you can do it. I'm not enough of an expert to say why that would be bad for the brakes, but I'd like to minimize the number of places air could get into the the lines, meaning I'd like a direct connect all the way to the box. -Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 i think that having a small block machined to accept the two banjo fittings would be much safer than just marrying two banjo fittings together....prob not too much $$ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Goodridge catalog has already everything you need. And no, you cant replace every piece of line between abs modulator and calipers in this bike. You would not be able to route the braided line the same way as the pipes are. Just leave them in place but if you really want to get rid of them buy some copper tubing and bend to match oem lines. As noted, you can just end you braided line with M10 thread just under the neck. You still need a good quality clamps like this: https://holley.com/products/plumbing/plumbing_components_and_accessories/clamps/line_clamp/parts/170207ERL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny12 Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 First off, thanks for the info, much appreciated. I tried to flip the line and re-route, but this actually made it shorter. I bit the bullet and called Core Moto, Ryan was a great help. $69 plus shipping. Hopefully they have the connector available, he's going to check. Need to take a few more pictures and hopefully we can get this done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny12 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 I'm happy to report this project is in the bag. The replacement line from Core leaked at the hard line connection. Discussing the options with their tech, we decided to can the stock line all together and have one line from the ABS pump to the reservoir. The only complaint is this second line took a week longer than I was told. In the end, removing the panels to expose the pump was a pain but was the best solution. core is a good place to work with. Since the original line leaked, the replacement line was on them, I paid for shipping. The line ended up costing $70 with all the shipping. Bleeding was a pain, an entire bottle of brake fluid flushed and it was still soft. I clamped off the lever and let it sit for several hours. After that it was stiffer than, well I now have a solid front brake lever. Love the end result. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 More pics pls! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denny12 Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Core suggested using coax cable to determine the path and length of the brake line. Here is a pic of the coax mimicking the stock hard line patch. I went with a black brake like to match all the other cables, however it is difficult to see. This pic is part of the lower run This pick is at the upper resevior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Thx. Looks neat. It seems you need some good quality brake ilne clamp. The pic, one before last shows some inclination in the stock bracket. I would strongly suggest you fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Bleeding was a pain, an entire bottle of brake fluid flushed and it was still soft. I clamped off the lever and let it sit for several hours. After that it was stiffer than, well I now have a solid front brake lever. Yeah, imagine that I replaced every bake line and what I'm going through right now - HONDA, thank you for not placing the bleeder in the ABS pump. What a splendid idea! The first day: managed to bleed the clutch in 2 minutes, managed to bleed the rear in 10 minutes. The day was over - front brake lever soft like a sponge. Absolutely no pressure. The second day: managed to make a lever solid a bit, still spongy but a progress has been made. Zip tied the lever and I have enough for today. Need to buy one more bottle of DOT4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 i'm going through the same thing...i have tried everything ...i think there is air in the abs modulator ...i followed factory service manual to a tee...have been working on non abs hydraulic brakes for a long time...have tried vacuum bleeding, manual lever pump....replaced all seals.....i'm stumped....going to take it to dealer soon...still have ext warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Just got me thinking this might not be an air issue but an empty space inside the modulator - something which is blocked by modulator internals like valve or so. Yeah, I know that empty space virtually means air but this is something different. Told myself I gotta sort it out today and after zip tie-ing the lever and leaving it for 2-3 hours I have some progress! Denny12's hint got me thinking anyways. However there was no air coming out the hose anymore and the brake has around 70% of the stock stiffness again. Try that one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartho Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 I'm curious how dealer is doing it. What do you mean by "zip tie-ing the lever" Take it to the handle bar an block there? There is no special procedure in the manual to bleed the modulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 They have some advanced automated machines for couple grands. You can buy a vacuum bleeder either with a integrated pump or with an air compressor connection but, it will not help a lot. I mean compressing the lever and tie it to the handlebar. Manual says "connect the commercially available bleeder to the system"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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