lshark Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 i've pumped the lever up and tied it tight and left it...it does keep some pressure....if it just sits it loses any pressure at the lever but will pump back up...there are no leaks anywhere....i have the exact same symptoms that you have ....started after changing brake fluid....no problem with the rear/link system or clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartho Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 How to bleed the modulator?? Can't find anything about it. You have to activate the modulator? contact on? find this on Triumph forum because they use the nissin system to. http://www.triumphrat.net/ecm-and-fi-tuning-help-tips-and-tricks/166650-abs-brake-system-bleed-procedure.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I've red that too..same thing with Honda CBR ABS system. VFR 1200 does not have an OBD connector - at least not a standard one. There are some scanners that might work tho: http://shop.pvmmotosport.ch/de/obd-tools/835-obd-tool-kit-honda.html The only thins you can try is to jump the diagnostic 4 pin connector and read the fault codes. VFR 1200 service manual states that you just need to bleed the system using the bleeder screws - that's all. http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39516-vfr1200-brake-bleeding-tip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro1 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 if anyone is interested you can buy the bits and make these lines your selves, i do it on cars and bikes so if your interested i can give you a talk through on how its done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 What lines? HEL has already everything You need and I already have the complete braided set installed. I've done like 20 cars and 5 motorcycles with ABS always with NP. However they tend to have a bleeders in the ABS modulator. This one doesn't... If you have any specific hints which might help us mere mortals, pls be so kind and post it here so everyone can use this information. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 One trick I have learned over the years is to actually pull the master cylinder off the handlebar. Only fill it 1/4 or 1/2 and be careful not to spill any, but keep lightly squeezing and releasing the lever while you tilt the M/C in different directions. With the lever end tilted slightly up and the M/C tilted slightly down, just barely squeezing the lever 10 or 15 times, I always see air bubbles come out of the M/C. I keep doing that until I don't see air anymore. Then bleed the calipers as normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retro1 Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 im all for the cable tie method, get out all the air you can, pump up the lever then cable tie to the bar, leave over night come back in the morning, cut the cable tie and watch the bubbles appear in the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Yep, worked for me. Compress, tie and leave it for 24h. However I saw no more bubbles coming out neither reservoir nor bleeder. I believe some solenoids just has to be pressurized to let the fluid in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartho Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 tell me what could a compressed lever help bleeding the line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 tell me what could a compressed lever help bleeding the line Maybe its beyond your comprehension, but as wrote before, the pressure will slowly open the solenoids which are normally closed and full of air(after draining the system). Normal procedure with car ABS would be to use the modulator bleeders but Honda decided to not put them here... In a case of Triumph motorcycles where Bosch/Nissin modulator is also used, smart Brits invented a special diagnostic function to save some time and pain. This function allows you to open all solenoids manually and therefore bleed the modulator properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartho Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 I can understand that you must open the solenoids but do you need any electricity to do that I mean contact on. Are those solenoid only hydraulic activated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 VFR 1200 has an electric abs modulator therefore everything is controlled with solenoids. Honda decided to not use any automated bleeding procedure here, and as they think it should be just fine with conventional bleeding - they were wrong. Its a one big PITA. What I did was a constant build up pressure which eventually pushed the valves, springs, one way ball release thingy and whatever else is there, and opened a passage and let me bleed to modulator entirely...this is how I comprehend this. Worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartho Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted March 19, 2015 Share Posted March 19, 2015 i tried everything i've tried it with it running and after riding so that the abs light was off....i've done everything but bleed it while moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 There must be something wrong. If its so bad then no dealer and magic bleed machine will help you. Either is something not sealed properly or you have a clog somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 i've done everything i can, it's the dealer's turn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wera803 Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Did you pull the master cylinder off and tilt it like I suggested? Any bubbles come out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 i've done everything i can, it's the dealer's turn Hey, your money your time. I would still recommend trying to flush it once more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volfy Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I normally don't bother with this method for regular brake bleed. But if I were to replace lines upstream of the Abs modulator, I would definitely do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Ok understand. Only one question i have. What about reverse bleeding did someone tried that. Maybe that way you open the solenoids and puch the air up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk I normally don't bother with this method for regular brake bleed. But if I were to replace lines upstream of the Abs modulator, I would definitely do this. Will not work, tried that too. ABS will not likely go reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lshark Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 no, it didn't work either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 You have air trapped somewhere. You've either missed a bleed point, or have not worked the air out well enough. Air will always go to the highest point. Starting at your calipers, use the plastic handle of a large screwdriver to tap all the way up to your bleed point. Use a small frequent tapping motion. Once you've woodpecker'd your way up, crack the bleeder. **In the case of the master cylinder**, you MUST ensure that the bottom of the reservoir is higher than the banjo bolt/line connection! **Additionally** Do not fully squeeze the lever! You need to move the lever just a small amount, usually just enough to hear the brake light switch click on. Squeezing the lever more than that will just push the air back down the line. You will likely need to remove the m/c from the handlebar to accomplish this. Use masking tape, string, etc to hold it in its temp position while you work. A lot of the time, especially in factory systems, air will become trapped in one or more of the numerous junctions. The tapping method has helped me achieve rock solid brakes on numerous occasions similar to what you have described. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Ok, after the short ride I decided to give a rear brake a try - I normally don't use it but what da heck... Mmmmm spongy! I decided to bleed the rear once more - few bubbles came out from the rear bleeder. Front is good. Hint: bleed, ride it a bit and bleed it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Riding = vibration... hence the tapping on the lines to get the air out, before you head out on the road... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
satariel Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Riding = vibration... hence the tapping on the lines to get the air out, before you head out on the road... Yeah, exactly. But, tapping the 2 meter rear line from the modulator to the caliper, where the half is steel may be difficult to achieve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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