kyojitsu Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 Noticed both lights and dash dimming and brightening slightly in sequence with idle. On move problem seems to disappear. Last night I switched on the heated grips and they shut off whilst at idle despite numerous attempts. I assumed the controller wasn't detecting enough current and auto shutoff so switched off headlight and tried again. Problem solved. Once on move reintroduced headlight and all ok. So it seems at idle bike isn't pushing out sufficient juice to maintain both headlamps and heated grips. What do you think problem might be? Battery in need of renewal or reg/rec about to pop? Any other thoughts? I'm pretty useless with electrics so go easy on me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted November 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2014 It could also be your stator, but I'm willing to be it's your RR. My advice is to buy a multimeter and follow this http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viffviff Posted November 4, 2014 Share Posted November 4, 2014 There's a good VFR specific guide on the forum too: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/15-electrical-test-rr-stator-and-battery/ I did it this weekend and it's pretty staightforward to follow (even I could do it!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFRMAN Posted November 4, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 4, 2014 Hope you get it sorted Kyojitsu,nothing more annoying than electrics playing up,I'll be interested to see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojitsu Posted November 5, 2014 Author Share Posted November 5, 2014 Thanks all. Will give it a go! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 5, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 5, 2014 I had the same symptoms so I tossed a new battery in. I have a voltmeter fitted and found that I get 0.2v higher reading now with the new battery compared to the old. I also had a few instances where the starter sounded a little reluctant to turn the bike over and the clock reset, usually when the bike was warmed up and I had stopped and restarted over a short interval, which to me suggests that the old battery was not taking or holding charge very well. After a few weeks I am pleased to report that these symptoms are gone, the lights are steady at idle and the bike is eager to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TampaDave Posted November 5, 2014 Share Posted November 5, 2014 I dunno but on bikes where you can actually remove the battery, that's what happens, the lights get brighter, the faster you go. Has the bike been sluggish when you start it? What's your battery voltage? It's always tempting just to throw a new battery in there but that's seldom the most efficient way of solving problems. It would be worth it to spend a few minutes with a multimeter to make sure the gen and r/r are doing what they're supposed to do. Excessively high voltage coming out of the r/r is bad, let us know. Also check the fuse just to the rear of the battery and make sure it's not melting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyojitsu Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Bike always starts, not sluggish but a bit hesitant when the starter valve is fully open and engine cold. Takes a few seconds grumbling to get itself together then roars to 3000rpm until I adjust lever. Only clue is the dimming and brightening of instruments at idle and the fact that my heated grips won't stay on at same time suggesting there's not enough output to sustain both headlights and heated grips at low revs. The reason I suppose could be many different things. I've bought myself a multimeter (at last) so will have a poke round this weekend (although my gut says new battery!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted November 7, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 7, 2014 Where is your idle speed set? If it's below about 1250 the charging system won't be putting out enough current to charge the battery at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted November 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 12, 2014 Many different theories on RR's. Some will tell you OEM, some will say MOSFET, some will say Rick's. These are most popular answers to your questions. If you go OEM or Ricks, I'd recommend a VFRness from Tightwad. He's a member here, and I'm a big fan. What is your voltage with the RR connected at idle and 5k rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mk2davis Posted November 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 12, 2014 I believe the R1 is a MOSFET type. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I believe some wiring changes will be necessary to adapt an R1. This is a VFRness: http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-specific-parts-1998-1999-vfr-parts-1998-1999-vfrness-p-272.html It basically replaces puny factory wires with thicker wires for better conductivity. It takes 2 minutes to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faran Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Have a look here, am sure it'll help: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/53888-00-01-rr-on-98-99/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faran Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Can totally understand your frustration, take a deep breath, seriously! This forum has a lot of helpful people and am sure someone better than me will chime in to help you. Read above what 'mk2davis' has said about R/R's and then decide accordingly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted November 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 13, 2014 I'm looking for a replacement reg/rec. is part number 31600-MBG-306 the correct one? On a 5th gen, do not buy an OEM Honda replacement! -- The supposed R1 R/R --- the latest tech is the Shindengen FH020AA is the best choice and can be had at www.roadstercycle.com -- No VFRness required. You may as well do a full system charging test. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faran Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks, I'm looking at this one on wemoto.com 31600-MBW-D21, I'm replacing the stator as well. Why are you replacing it? Did you do the drill posted by 'mellow dude'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parksey Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 Here's another thread that might be useful. It's about a sixth gen but it includes the reg.rec diagnostic routine from mellodude that seems to at least ID the culprit. Note in this case there was another poor connection further upstream that seemed to be the primary cause, so it's worth tracing the full route of the wires and looking for anything obvious before plumping for swapping parts. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79476-2007-vfr800-rwb-dead-at-key-turn/ Just to add to your headache here's some more info on alternative reg/recs. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/77011-shindengen-fh020aa-rectifier-regulator-super-mosfet-kit/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BonusVFR Posted November 14, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 14, 2014 I'm looking for a replacement reg/rec. is part number 31600-MBG-306 the correct one? On a 5th gen, do not buy an OEM Honda replacement! -- The supposed R1 R/R --- the latest tech is the Shindengen FH020AA is the best choice and can be had at www.roadstercycle.com -- No VFRness required. You may as well do a full system charging test. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/79239-5th-gen-electrical-issues/ Why do you not like the upgraded OEM R/R replacement from Honda? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus20170 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 What upgraded OEM R/R is that BonusVFR? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BonusVFR Posted March 25, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 25, 2015 What upgraded OEM R/R is that BonusVFR? I was just inquiring why the new Upgraded OEM R/R part from Honda is not satisfactory? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morpheus20170 Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 I didn't know there is an upgraded OEM R/R. The 08 Fireblade onwards went to MOSFET R/R but I'm not sure about the VFR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer BonusVFR Posted March 25, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted March 25, 2015 I didn't know there is an upgraded OEM R/R. The 08 Fireblade onwards went to MOSFET R/R but I'm not sure about the VFR. I don't have the respective part numbers but my OEM R/R replacement is much bigger (biggers fins etc) and different in appearance than my original. I have not idea who makes the new style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.