Chain Tension

[JimGregory]

Recently I have been fighting with my stock original (I think) chain. I set it to where I think it should be and next day or so I check it and it's too tight. There is 5000 miles on it. No tight spots I can find.

I set it so that the bottom can touch the swing arm with very little prodding. I have not used a torque wrench on it to tighten the pinch bolt but just the spanner provided in the tool kit. I think that was the wrong thing to do and last night I cleaned the chain very well and the guide on top of the swing arm and everything else around it. Then set the chain a bit looser then torqued the pinch bolt to 54 foot pounds. There is no way I was getting 54 foot pounds with that little spanner.

Ideas?

Jim

[FJ12Ryder]

It's certainly possible that it could have moved if not tightened enough. Have you had a chance to ride it since torquing it to spec? How many miles on the chain do you think? How often do you lube it and what are you using?

[MBrane]

If the eccentric was slipping the chain would loosen not tighten.

I have measured chain slack with the swing arm set to it's maximum extension point, and on the center stand I can easily push it up against the bottom of the chain buffer. Granted my rear suspension has been lifted about as far as you can, but if it was stock the chain would still have more slack than the factory specs.

Another way to do it is to sit on the bike, and have an assistant check/adjust the slack. Often you will find it's fine on the stand, but too tight at max sag.

[JimGregory]

I think it's the original chain and bike has 5000 miles. I use some generic chain lube I forget the brand but seems fine, I did ride to work this am and all felt smooth and nice. Chain felt the same as my yesterday adjustment. It's very clean now. It had not been thoroughly cleaned in who knows how long. The bike is new to me this season. The adjustment is about half way to "replace".

I adjust it on the center stand. I never have a person to sit on it or help with anything.

I also never had a problem adjusting a chain before. But then I never had a chain that rides on a swing arm like this one. There is no good spot to check slack without first hitting the swing arm.

I think it was ok for just me but I just did a road trip with bags loaded and girlfriend on back. I think it got hot and somehow tightened up. I was DEFINITELY tighter then when we left because I adjusted and oiled it right before we left. I dont like thinking about the bad things a too tight chain does.

[mello dude]

On chain slack -- a tick loose is definitely better than a tick tight....

Minor off topic.....

Just did the adjust and pinch bolt thing on my 5th gen. Set the torque wrench at the 54 ft-lb point and it felt like it was headed for the strip it zone. I backed it off and did it by the mechanics feel. Not gonna stress over that one.

Anybody else think the 54 ft-lb spec is on the high side?

[Terry]

I was told by a Honda mechanic that if the bearing pinch bolt is over-tightened you can squish the wheel bearings and then they overheat and fail. That said, I would trust the shop manual and your torque gauge on this one.

[spud786]

54 ftlbs with spanner wrench?

I think you need a lot of clarification, id stop till you do, sounds like your trying to torque the wrong thing with 54lbs.

[PorradaVFR]

54 ftlbs with spanner wrench?

I think you need a lot of clarification, id stop till you do, sounds like your trying to torque the wrong thing with 54lbs.

I show 54# as the torque spec for the chain adjustment bolt. I'm not sure what you're questioning - that the torque value is off or that trying to achieve that with the onboard tool kit is unlikely?

[JimGregory]

54 ftlbs with spanner wrench?

I think you need a lot of clarification, id stop till you do, sounds like your trying to torque the wrong thing with 54lbs.

sometimes a box or open end wrench is called a spanner. Sometimes it's not. I have had a lot of British bikes and cars.

Yes 54 foot pounds seems like a lot but it went fine. But there is no way in hell I can get near that much with the little shorty 17mm box wrench in the kit.

So anyway I cleaned the hell out of the chain with kerosene yesterday. Wiped it dry. Drove to work and back today with just kerosene on it. Cleaned it a bit more and brushed on some 90 wt. Let the 90 wt get in there and wiped it clean. Very smooth. Very quiet. And the slack was right where I left it.

Also pulled the rear wheel and balanced it. No weights on it at all. The dot was lined up with the valve stem. The light spot BY A LOT was the valve stem. On thick cast wheels you are SUPPOSED to line the dot up opposite of the valve stem OR check for the heavy spot on the wheel first. Whatever I ran it right into triple digits and it's smooth now. Checked the front too and it was almost perfect without weights.

Yesterday when I was cleaning old gunk out of everywhere I noticed the old grease/oil smeared on everything was full of hair! The rubber chain guide was coated with hair. I actually though it was some kind of fibrouse thing that was supposed to be like that. But no. It was just hairy!

PO must have had cats. This bike hung around for many years in a garage full of cats I guess. So weird.

54 ftlbs with spanner wrench?

I think you need a lot of clarification, id stop till you do, sounds like your trying to torque the wrong thing with 54lbs.

I show 54# as the torque spec for the chain adjustment bolt. I'm not sure what you're questioning - that the torque value is off or that trying to achieve that with the onboard tool kit is unlikely?

He was questioning my use of the word spanner. I guess offically the spanner involved in the process is the large too to spin the eccentric adjuster. So I get where he is coming from.