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Garage Door Opener


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Sure, if they bring along 5-6 friends. My door without the motor to move it weighs a metric damn ton. My motor failed one time and me and two healthy neighbors unhooked the chain and tried to lift/pry/move it. Couldn't be done. It's not a light AL sectional door...it's one solid piece that pivots up and out into the driveway. If you park too close, it'll hit you/your car on the way up.

All garage doors can be opened without an automatic opener. If you're having that much difficulty opening it manually (with the opener disengaged), there's something else wrong. This is a common problem for people with sectional wooden doors that have an assist spring let go on them.

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No fumbling with it in my jacket pocket - It's as simple as touching my lower jacket. I know it's in that pocket, no gloves off, no unzipping pocket, and I don't have to slow down any more than I would to go over the curb any way.

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Sure, if they bring along 5-6 friends. My door without the motor to move it weighs a metric damn ton. My motor failed one time and me and two healthy neighbors unhooked the chain and tried to lift/pry/move it. Couldn't be done. It's not a light AL sectional door...it's one solid piece that pivots up and out into the driveway. If you park too close, it'll hit you/your car on the way up.

All garage doors can be opened without an automatic opener. If you're having that much difficulty opening it manually (with the opener disengaged), there's something else wrong. This is a common problem for people with sectional wooden doors that have an assist spring let go on them.

Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.

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Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.

I would never encourage anyone to talk in detail what it takes to foil their security and gain access to their prize...

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Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.

I think you missed my point - if a single person is unable to open it when the opener is disconnected, then the door has an issue. If it's THAT hard to move by hand, then the opener is working just as hard. And they aren't designed to have to put out that much effort to lift a door - regardless of type - unless it's a commercial door.

If you have a sectional, wooden door, and the assist springs / torsion spring lets go, you can not lift manually by yourself. That's exacty why the lift springs are there.

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Oh, I'm sure it CAN be opened, but not with 2-3 strong guys. It weighs too damn much.it's not sectional, it's one solid piece of....oak? Whatever it is, it's solid.

I think you missed my point - if a single person is unable to open it when the opener is disconnected, then the door has an issue. If it's THAT hard to move by hand, then the opener is working just as hard. And they aren't designed to have to put out that much effort to lift a door - regardless of type - unless it's a commercial door.

If you have a sectional, wooden door, and the assist springs / torsion spring lets go, you can not lift manually by yourself. That's exacty why the lift springs are there.

Indeed. I've got a sectional pressed steel panel door, and twice in the last 10 years one of the springs has broken (different side each time). I found if I disconnected the door from the chain drive, I could lift it with some effort, but with both broken - I don't think so. And I'd imagine that at 94kg the door is much lighter than a wooden one.

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  • 8 months later...

I took one of my 3 button openers and soldered some wires to the board, then hooked them up to a momentary double pole toggle switch. Push up to open the one door and down to open the other. The switch springs back to the center. I then hid the opener under the fairing and put the switch on the dash.

Seems like the same principle of the ones in the link, just home made and cheaper.

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Well, $60 is what I saw and I suck at soldering. Don't know what universal remotes cost, plus a waterproof switch, plus my terrible soldering...

Couple clicks and 60 bucks later!

Don't know, haven't bought anything. My car has one built in, and the ST has fairing pockets to hold a remote. The one I currently have is three small buttons, so not easy to hit in a pocket.

I'd rather the Mo-Door had wired power so I wouldn't need to bother with batteries.

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I've got this remote hardwired to a switch on the inner fairing. The remote is wrapped in a plastic bag and ziptied inside the fairing. I thought about leaving it in a jacket pocket, but I switch between a couple of jackets.

Do bear in mind that plastic bags don't hold up well to ozone, exhaust, etc. so check it often before you find out the hard way that it's no longer water-proof.

Speaking of which, the Mo-Door thing looks OK but watch out, not all those switches are waterproof!

My garage uses RFID tags now so I didn't bother fitting anything fancy on my 8th Gen, but my '97 bikes were set up with a Homelink remote control widget removed from a car's roof console. Fair amount of effort to do it nicely but to me it was totally worth it. See the linky:

http://bytebrothers.org/HomemadeHomelink.htm

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