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Fuel Pump Not Energizing After Horn Event. Relay Not Clicking


MaxSwell

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Had a similar issue recently. Check the fuses with you multi meter! No continuity. Replace it!

I checked all ten fuses again yesterday. All are whole. TH, can you describe how to test a fuse holder. Do I remove the fuse and stick one lead in each side of the fuse socket? What setting on the meter is used?

All suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thank you everyone.

and make sure they are pushed in all the way...

Do not ask how I know... :unsure:

All ten are nicely tucked in. The bike will crank all day. Just no fuel pump whine and no relay clicking.

Being that the bank angle sensor is $63 and it's internals are not visible, perhaps I should just throw an new on on. I'm getting pretty desperate.

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Actually I'm thinking its a bad wire in the harness. I forgot how many times you been down on that bike most likely the wire was damaged in one of those crash's.

When you replaced the front Stay it move the wire enough to finally break.

get the wiring diagram and concentrate on the bank angle sensor wires

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

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From the symptoms you've described so far, I would also lean towards wire harness. Did you try swapping the bank sensor off the other bike? I'm fairly certain you can bypass it by putting a "jumper" between the Red/Orange wire and the Green Wire on the connector that goes to the sensor.

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From the symptoms you've described so far, I would also lean towards wire harness. Did you try swapping the bank sensor off the other bike? I'm fairly certain you can bypass it by putting a "jumper" between the Red/Orange wire and the Green Wire on the connector that goes to the sensor.

Great ides MS. Had not thought of that. I'll go do that right now.

Actually I'm thinking its a bad wire in the harness. I forgot how many times you been down on that bike most likely the wire was damaged in one of those crash's. When you replaced the front Stay it move the wire enough to finally break. get the wiring diagram and concentrate on the bank angle sensor wires Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Could very well be. I've been down so many time in 140,00 miles that I look up to everything. (Blush)

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I had the exact same issue on an 04 I bought wrecked . one of the three Bank angle sensor wires was pinched and the fuel pump would not prime.

traced out the wires , found the break. repaired and it works great.

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

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Halle fooken lujah! MadScientist was correct. It was the bank angle sensor. I swapped from the youngster and the oldster fired right up.

Texas-Mac, here I come.

Thank you all for your input. I am one happy camper. :cheerleader: :beer: :tongue: :wheel: :tongue:

Terry.

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I bet that sensor was just plain worn out.

:-)

Thats friggin HILARIOUS you have evidently followed Terry before

BUT IT'S FIXED this time I follow you to TMac !!!

:cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader::cheerleader:

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fantastic!!! Guess you you Banked the Angle one too many times on the old one! :-) Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

Kevin, thanks for focusing in on that mofo. You were right. Always knew you were smart(a$$) too. :goofy:

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Can a mod changed Maxswell's screen name in "The Banker" please???

And at TMAC, just call him "Morgan" or "Stanley" :goofy:

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Can a mod changed Maxswell's screen name in "The Banker" please???

And at TMAC, just call him "Morgan" or "Stanley" :goofy:

After getting these two machines on the road y'all can call me Poor House. The bill is past $2,000 and rapidly heading for $3k. That'll buy a lot of groceries. No wonder why I'm a light weight.

Poor but v happy. It's Only Money is now the phrase of the day.

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  • 9 months later...

Thanks for the info everybody. On my '98 my fuel pump was intermittently energizing and finally stopped. I cleaned the connectors and fuses, sprayed contact cleaner and applied di-electric grease and now it works great.

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  • 6 months later...

Update:

There is now a delay before the fuel pump energizes.

The delay is after the kill switch is turned to the on position and varies in length from immediately to ~15/20 seconds.

I have not gone through the starting procedure and not had the bike start...yet

Anybody experience this? Please advise

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I'm not sure if this is relevant but the VFR's Owners Manual says to use the key to turn the bike off. Not the kill switch (use in emergency) or the side stand switch. What happens if you leave the switch on all the time? Can you start the bike, turn it off with the key (kill switch set to on) and restart it?

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I'm not sure if this is relevant but the VFR's Owners Manual says to use the key to turn the bike off. Not the kill switch (use in emergency) or the side stand switch. What happens if you leave the switch on all the time? Can you start the bike, turn it off with the key (kill switch set to on) and restart it?

Think your overthinking this one, grasshopper...

- I use the kill switch as on/off every time. Flip key on, hit kill switch on, fire up bike. Reverse, kill switch off, key off. Guess I'm doing it wrong for 30 years. -- -I suppose you could do key only for everything, and just leave kill switch on all the time if you wanted to.

As a BTW on this topic, I had a goofy "hesitation" on my bike when I hit the horn switch, it was kinda like a short misfire, maybe a tenth of a second. I stuck a relay in the horn circuit and it isolated the horn. Misfire gone.

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my update:

Fuel pump was still activating with an occasional lag. Noticed the kill switch was not fully engaging in the run position. The switch would depress normally and no fuel pump, I would press a little bit harder on the kill switch and it would engage. Un-screwed switch housing, sprayed contact cleaner up into mechanism attached to the toggle switch. Re-assembled switch housing nice and snug. Everything seems to work correctly and quickly now.

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