Guest JeffLaurence Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 How tight is the Allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg?( 3rd Gen) I got the impact gun on it ,going CCW, But man is it tight!! It's not left is it?? Thanks, JL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted March 4, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 4, 2013 20nm with a bit of locktite from page 12-11 onwards in the service manual, you can download it from VFRD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 It just got stripped-- going to have to drill it out.......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 5, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 5, 2013 Had a similar problem on a friends 4th Gen. Both fork tube bolts had to be drilled out. Ironically, once the head was removed and we had the internals removed the remaining part of the bolt was easily removed by hand! I guess the bolt and crush washer we more or less stuck to the slider, than the bolt stuck in the compression valve assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Glad to hear I'm not alone in this --- so if I'm careful, should be no problem, right? Thanks, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2013 Glad to hear I'm not alone in this --- so if I'm careful, should be no problem, right? Thanks, Jeff We first tried using stud extractors but they just spun, we then went to the drill bits. I think it was an 11/32 or a 23/64 bit. Once the head of the bolt was off we removed the top cap, took a punch and tapped the bolt through the slider. One tap and it was free. Just keep an eye on how deep you drill, you don't want to go too deep or you'll be driliing into the slider. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted March 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2013 DONT DRILL IT YET!!! get the 1/4 HEX BIT and hammer it into the bolt. use your impact gun at MAX setting. if you round it off again.. just drill the head off the bolt off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR Capt.Bob Posted March 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 6, 2013 What stripped? It could be the whole works (damping assembly) is turning inside of the fork tube. Take the fully assembled leg out of the triple clamps. Turn it upside down on a firm padded surface. Push down very hard to compess the tube then try the impact to break it free. Works everytime for me. The compression helps to give the internals some resistance to turning with the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JZH Posted March 14, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 14, 2013 To get friction on the rebound valve body (into which the bottom bolt threads) you actually have to pull the forks apart, not push them together. (Yes, it's true--have a real close look at how all of the components fit together!) However, an air wrench will get the bolts out regardless of what you do. And that is the key. Once they start to spin, you need air power... Ciao, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Thanks, but I already drilled the head off-- the piece that was left in the damper rod turned out with my fingers. I think maybe the copper washer that was under the bolt head mushroomed a bit and locked the head to the slider. J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 17, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks, but I already drilled the head off-- the piece that was left in the damper rod turned out with my fingers. I think maybe the copper washer that was under the bolt head mushroomed a bit and locked the head to the slider. J Yep, that's what we experienced. The internal components were not even part of the equation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted March 18, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 18, 2013 Had a similar problem on a friends 4th Gen. Both fork tube bolts had to be drilled out. Ironically, once the head was removed and we had the internals removed the remaining part of the bolt was easily removed by hand! I guess the bolt and crush washer we more or less stuck to the slider, than the bolt stuck in the compression valve assembly. This is actually pretty common. Just the least bit of resistance is all it takes to keep the bolt from coming out. Before I get the drill out I first try to impact the bolt back in. Sometimes getting to tighten up will allow the impact to drive it out the second time. I give this process about 5 minutes then the drill bits come out. I have a series of drill sizes that I go through and the whole thing takes 20-30 minutes, so I don't normally resort to this unless absolutely necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.