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'84 Vf750F Project


CBVFRbikeboy

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Picked the seat up from the upholsterer's tonight. Fairly straight-forward affair.

seat.jpg

excuse the dust all over everything :wink:

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That looks good ......

Is that where you are painting or just for drying ?

thanks.

Sadly, its where I paint. Have to cover everything in drop sheets :wacko:

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Looking great! I see everything except the tail, how was the decal to install there? The longer ones can be a bit of trouble.

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Looking great! I see everything except the tail, how was the decal to install there? The longer ones can be a bit of trouble.

Tail is there, just hiding behind the top fairing :wink:

Decal worked out fine except for the fact that it doesn't match the original I had made my template for :wacko: Slightly different market difference. It was supplied it 2 pieces, joining at the centre on the top. Surprised a bit by that, because the tank stripe was 1-piece and considerably longer?? But yeah, they can be tricky. I just start at the centre and work towards one end, then go back and do the other side. I keep the backing taped in position as long as I can to locate it.

tail.jpg

cheers

ian

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Well, I take back what I said earlier about these carbs being easy to work with. I've had to remove them again to re-route the wiring harness I thought needed to be on top of the rack. Turns out it runs under it. Anyway, I removed the 'air chamber' from the rack to give me more manoeuvrability to pull them out of the insulators. I think it made them a bit too flexible, because I ended up snapping the end of 2 of the plastic connector tubes.

fuelTubes.jpg

Now I have to wait until replacements turn up. :mad:

Bugger.

Oh, the idle speed screw was also seized in the casting, and the plastic knob also split in 2. I've replaced the set up with one from a spare

bol d'or rack, although I had to drill and tap for the 5mm screw/bolt. Least of my problems :wacko:

ian

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Anyway, I removed the 'air chamber' from the rack to give me more manoeuvrability to pull them out of the insulators. I think it made them a bit too flexible, because I ended up snapping the end of 2 of the plastic connector tubes.

ian

That is one of the reasons why you never separate the carbs from the air cleaner base, those tubes are brittle and easily break when the carbs can move independently. The other reason is, a linkage spring will usually head for cover under your work bench when you're not looking.

Bummer.

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Anyway, I removed the 'air chamber' from the rack to give me more manoeuvrability to pull them out of the insulators. I think it made them a bit too flexible, because I ended up snapping the end of 2 of the plastic connector tubes.

ian

That is one of the reasons why you never separate the carbs from the air cleaner base, those tubes are brittle and easily break when the carbs can move independently. The other reason is, a linkage spring will usually head for cover under your work bench when you're not looking.

Bummer.

I think I need more practice if that's the case. It just seems too hard to try and insert the 90 degree bank of carbs into those insulators. I thought I was being clever by zip-tieing the throttle linkages together to prevent them from separating as you suggest, but I got bit by something else. Just after I ordered a pair of tubes from DSS, I saw an ebay listing for a pair of brass replacements for the same price :sleep: I hat it wjhen that happens.

cheers guys

ian

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Oh dear. So... I put the speedo cable bracket in the plating solution the other day. Then forgot about it :wacko:

The 40 minute process continued on unmonitored for about 24 hours.

speedoCable.jpg

You can get an idea of how thick the coating is by looking at the copper wire :sleep:

The good news I guess is I now have a spare anode.

ian

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Lubrication is key. Front carbs first, then the rear. Angle the boots and use your body weight, they will pop right in.

Are you suggesting I loosen the rear carb boots to angle them up a bit?

thanks seb.

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Lubrication is key. Front carbs first, then the rear. Angle the boots and use your body weight, they will pop right in.

Are you suggesting I loosen the rear carb boots to angle them up a bit?

thanks seb.

Yup. The front ones as well. Give both sides of the boots and the carb flanges a thin smear of petroleum jelly and it will all pop together.

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I would use it mate, it will never rust.

Oh dear. So... I put the speedo cable bracket in the plating solution the other day. Then forgot about it :wacko:

The 40 minute process continued on unmonitored for about 24 hours.

speedoCable.jpg

You can get an idea of how thick the coating is by looking at the copper wire :sleep:

The good news I guess is I now have a spare anode.

ian

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I would use it mate, it will never rust.

I'll have to drill the mounting hole out again, 'coz a 6mm bolt ain't getting through there now :blush:

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You are really starting to annoy me with this sort of work ethic Ian.

I have not touched a bike for 4 weeks or so. The best I managed was to pull out my body work and sort out what parts were going on which bike.

Every time I go to shed to try to do something the dear wife immediately finds a job for me.

Also meant to ask about the left side, rear upper engine mount bolt/nut arrangement on the 1000R. On mine the nut is a chrome cap nut arrangement but the underside of the "hat" does not seat against the frame. Is yours the same? I will grab a photo to id the correct mount for you.

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You are really starting to annoy me with this sort of work ethic Ian.

I have not touched a bike for 4 weeks or so. The best I managed was to pull out my body work and sort out what parts were going on which bike.

Ha ha. Here's me feeling guilty about taking 2 weeks off to do the Central Australian thing. I think if I had as many nice parts as you I'd just sit and stare at 'em too :happy:

Every time I go to shed to try to do something the dear wife immediately finds a job for me.

Also meant to ask about the left side, rear upper engine mount bolt/nut arrangement on the 1000R. On mine the nut is a chrome cap nut arrangement but the underside of the "hat" does not seat against the frame. Is yours the same? I will grab a photo to id the correct mount for you.

Yeah, I'll need a pic I think. I'm a bit dyslexic sometimes :wacko:

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I think I found it Jeff? Is this the one you're after?

Seems like mine has a gap as well. Same on the 750.

post-26374-0-71404900-1375587133.jpg

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That's the one Ian. Looks like it is ok as I pulled the nut off and could see it clearly seated in the bottom of the well in the frame.

Thanks for looking it up for me.

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