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'84 Vf750F Project


CBVFRbikeboy

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What is the weight of that frame compared to the big honking one on the 6th gens?

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What he said ^^^^^ Be great if you could add some weights for the major assemblies, just so we can compare with todays "more modern" components ! Looking good. Have you checked the cams yet ?

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Did the rear wheel today. Spent an hour or 2 masking to paint the hub. Didn't come up as well as the front, but it'll do me.

rearWheel.jpg

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Looking at your photo of the cams it is an early model as the later had an oil feed hole in the rear of the lobes.

What I remember is that the ones without the hole in the rear of the lobes had bleed holes in the plugs in each end of the cams.

I'd pull the cams and measure the lobe height. Only way to determine how much wear has occurred.

I built a Superbike based on one of these in the early 80's and had to mod the oil feeds to the top end to keep the pressure up.

Cheers

Phil

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Looking at your photo of the cams it is an early model as the later had an oil feed hole in the rear of the lobes.

What I remember is that the ones without the hole in the rear of the lobes had bleed holes in the plugs in each end of the cams.

I'd pull the cams and measure the lobe height. Only way to determine how much wear has occurred.

I built a Superbike based on one of these in the early 80's and had to mod the oil feeds to the top end to keep the pressure up.

Cheers

Phil

thanks Phil. Any advice on the oil feed mods you mention? Is it an involved process?

cheers

ian

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there's no visible scoring or pitting/flaking on that cam lobe, so if they all look that way, you're probably good I'm guessing.

when mine failed, they were visibly pitting/flaking. Didn't take a rocket surgeon to figure it out.

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there's no visible scoring or pitting/flaking on that cam lobe, so if they all look that way, you're probably good I'm guessing.

when mine failed, they were visibly pitting/flaking. Didn't take a rocket surgeon to figure it out.

+1

For reference lack of proper hardening on the followers is the main culprit - the damaged follower acts like a grinder wearing down the cam lobe.

One simple preventative step is to make sure you properly warm up the engine before riding. This will help prolong the life of the top end.

Project is looking great! Look forward to seeing the finished bike.

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Nothing wrong with those cam lobes! I think it would be safe to assume that if they are in that condition after 25+ years (if they are original), then you don't have a problem.

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Nothing wrong with those cam lobes! I think it would be safe to assume that if they are in that condition after 25+ years (if they are original), then you don't have a problem.

Cool. Thanks for that. The bike only has just under 40K on the dial, and I'm pretty sure that's accurate given the condition of the brake disks and clutch plates. That's about half of what similar aged bikes do around here, so I'd say they are originals.

cheers

ian

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Can the cam/valve/head covers be removed with the motor in the frame?

motor.jpg

I'm having a spare set polished, but don't want it to hold me up when I re-install the motor. I realise there are implications for setting valve clearances if the motor has to be out, so I'm hoping they'll come off in-frame.

cheers

ian

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Yeah they will come off in frame, just have some band aids, book of cuss words, lots of patience and a cold six pack for afterwards.

Just kidding, you will find that if you remove the coil packs, coolant recovery bottle, fuel line and on my bike at least I had to disconnect the wiring loom on the battery side frame rail.

It is a bitch the first time, after that not so bad.

BTW, that engine looks awesome! It's a credit to you that it came up so well.

Regards and good luck, Tony

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Yeah they will come off in frame, just have some band aids, book of cuss words, lots of patience and a cold six pack for afterwards.

Thanks Tony, that's what I was afraid of. I hope they hurry them up so I don't have to do it that way :unsure:

cheers

ian

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Don't be too put off by my description Ian, just to be clear, mine is a VF1000FF so probably different, but I imagine very similar. Honda are not stupid enough to build a bike that has to have the engine out to adjust valve clearances, they just didn't make it as easy as they could have in my case, but I now have no trouble doing mine. Once you have done it a couple of times it becomes easier. I would just say have your polishing gear ready for after they are fitted since you may mark the covers fitting them, and it is only the rear cover (in my case) that can be difficult the first time.

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Don't be too put off by my description Ian, just to be clear, mine is a VF1000FF so probably different, but I imagine very similar. Honda are not stupid enough to build a bike that has to have the engine out to adjust valve clearances, they just didn't make it as easy as they could have in my case, but I now have no trouble doing mine. Once you have done it a couple of times it becomes easier. I would just say have your polishing gear ready for after they are fitted since you may mark the covers fitting them, and it is only the rear cover (in my case) that can be difficult the first time.

No worries Tony. I'm used to wrangling the cb900/1100 valve covers of in situ without too much drama these days. I might wrap them in painter's tape to protect them a bit while I find the best route in :wink:

I think I read here somewhere that a certain model requires the cams to be removed in order to set the clearance? Now *that* seems like a silly engineering scenario.

Update: Found the post: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73807-valve-adjustment-would-you/?hl=%2Bvalve+%2Bclearance, post #3 mentions it. A latter model bike however.

I may have misinterpreted the post. It seems they're speaking about the VTEC components, of which I have no experience: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/19819-vtec-clearance-check-results/#entry226330, post #9

cheers

ian

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Don't see how you can set valve clearances with the cams out? The clearance is the difference between either the cam and rockers, or rocker and valve, but the cam needs to be fitted either way.

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Don't see how you can set valve clearances with the cams out? The clearance is the difference between either the cam and rockers, or rocker and valve, but the cam needs to be fitted either way.

My thoughts exactly. It was a bucket/shim arrangement, but still seems odd. I'll see if I can find the topic.

ian

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If it's bucket/shim arrangement that you read about, you may have to measure the clearance, then remove the cams to replace the shims, before replacing the cams and measuring again.

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Yeah, the inside of the tank was pretty manky. I had to take it in to a locksmith because none of the keys I have would open it. Wasn't all that impressed when I got to look inside.

On the other hand, it gave me an opportunity to try the electroysis method to remove all the rust.

electrolysis01.jpg

Something must be working because its bubbling away quite nicely.

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Also had a chance to paint the fork lowers with satin black epoxy while I wait for my fork seals and the rubbers for the anti-dive mechanism.

lowers.jpg

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