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Snapped Key In Ignition.help!


Guest Barryg

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Ok guys, really need some help here.

II took delivery of my first vfr yesterday, a 2002 vtec. However, I managed to snap the key clean off in the ignition the first time I tried to start it.

The bike is fitted with a HISS system I've had a locksmith out who says there is no chance of getting the broken key out. The steering lock is on and the bike is currently stranded in my garage.

I can't believe I have managed to do this before I have ever ridden the bike. Hopefully someone can give me some advice as to what to do next.

Thanks in advance guys

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Ouch...sorry about that. Maybe someone will help. Haven't seen that one on a VFR. Heard of it on ST1300's due to using the same key for the bags and ignition ...

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

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Try to get a scroll saw blade and a pair of pliers twisting it so the teeth of the blade grab on the key broken part and tug very slowly ,it should come out just be gentle .

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Hmmm. If you remove the front fairing and forks (jack bike up under the headers) you may be able to remove the lock barrel. It's just two torx screws holding it on.

Once it's off you can get creative - pushing the key out from the bottom maybe? Or also possibly buying a new lock barrel and having it cut to match the key.

Note that HISS has *nothing* to do with the lock barrel or the "key" itself. For example if you cut out the lock barrel completely and left the HISS transponder ring behind, you could hot-wire the ignition and the bike will start merely by placing the black plastic head of your broken key near the HISS transponder.

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Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm a bit unsure of the HISS system and how it works.

If I remove the 2 torx screws and drop the bottom part of the ignition,can the barrel be replaced?

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oh for gods sake your locksmith is a F#@% retard!!!!

1st.. get some long thin tweezers and try to get the key out..

if thas a no go. remove the lock and disassemble it.. remove the blade.. put it back together..

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oh for gods sake your locksmith is a F#@% retard!!!!

1st.. get some long thin tweezers and try to get the key out..

if thas a no go. remove the lock and disassemble it.. remove the blade.. put it back together..

The locksmith tried for 2 hours,the broken piece is bent,right at the bottom of the barrel. No way of getting it out.

I was asking HOW to remove the lock and disassemble it?

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oh for gods sake your locksmith is a F#@% retard!!!!

1st.. get some long thin tweezers and try to get the key out..

if thas a no go. remove the lock and disassemble it.. remove the blade.. put it back together..

Yea, what do locksmiths know, best listen to an anonymous forum poster who hasn't seen the problem, lol. :fing02:

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If the key entered I see no way it could have bend down in the cylinder. With nothing to loose before removing the lock itself I would take a small drill bit, 1/8" or so and drill the top edge of the remaining key at a 45 degree (or greater) to give a ledge to pry the key upward. Just enough of a hole to lever the key upward. If you get it above the plain of the cylinder you can grab it with wise grips. Get it? You need to lever the key out using the cylinder.

The hole is really at the edge of the key and the cylinder. Cylinder is the fulcrum.

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if you MUST take off the lock.. you need to see if it has been replace before..

if it has.. it may be as simple as using a 5, or 6 mm allen key.

if not.. you may need a drill or a dremel to grind off the bolt heads to remove the lock..

one the lock is off. you will be able to see how it comes apart.. do it yourself.. or try a different lock smith..

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oh for gods sake your locksmith is a F#@% retard!!!!

1st.. get some long thin tweezers and try to get the key out..

if thas a no go. remove the lock and disassemble it.. remove the blade.. put it back together..

The locksmith tried for 2 hours,the broken piece is bent,right at the bottom of the barrel. No way of getting it out.

I was asking HOW to remove the lock and disassemble it?

How much did it cost for 2 hours?

While I know a few locksmiths who will spend hours trying to work or pick a lock(and fail) , (its a stupid Pride sort of thing). You cant really do that in the Locksmith world, Unless someone is Fronting a Salary for whatever duration.

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You'll need to remove the front faring cowl. The actual ignition switch is unscrewed from the bottom of the key cylinder assembly then two 8mm allen head bolts to remove the cylinder assembly. Most of the time a key is broken off due to a twisting or bending motion. The milled part of this key sits well into the slot so it's very likely the remaining blade is bent or twisted. This will make it very difficult to remove with tweezers, pics and drill bits without relieving pressure on the key registers. This can only be done by removing the cylinder from it's tube. Your first step is to remove the whole lock assembly and again consult the locksmith or your Hoinda parts dealer for a new unit and key.

Once you have the lock assembly out you may see how to release the register cylinder from it's tube, could be a small drift pin or the like.

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i have never needed to remove the whole fairing to remove the top clamp. if the bolts are 8mm as you say.

all thats needed is a ratchet and , a bit and a few extensions and go from below the fairing..

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A long time ago, a friend removed a broken key stub by 'spot welding' a length of (coat hanger?) wire to the broken end of the key. IIRC, he basically used a set of booster cables to weld the sharpened end of wire onto the key with 12V from the battery.

As I said, it was some time back. Are you sure the key is bent at the end? How did that happen?

Glenn

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Yeah, if the key was bent at the tip, to a point of making it impossible to come out, it would not have gone into the keyhole without having to un-bend it. Sounds like excuses for a failed locksmithing job to me. Use your head and a little ingenuity, you'll come up with something.

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Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm a bit unsure of the HISS system and how it works.

If I remove the 2 torx screws and drop the bottom part of the ignition,can the barrel be replaced?

Yes, absolutely it can be replaced. It can probably also be disassembled and put back together again but I've not seen anyone do it...yet.

If you can't get the piece of the key out, the simplest option is a new barrel. When you order this it comes as a "lock set" which includes the barrel AND the fuel tank cap. It's about $200 USD but probably double that for Australia.

I have some videos on YouTube discussing how to add new keys to the HISS system in the ECU. It's very easy, especially since you have the stub of the broken key still.

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Ok,thanks for all the help lads. I'll be honest I'm not the most mechanically minded person, but I'll have a go at it today.

One last question, does the fact that the steering lock is on affect whether or not the lock and barrel will come away from the bike?

Cheers again

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can you see down at the top of the key? if you can try using some crazy glue, or if you are patient and very steady some 5 minute epoxy and glue a spoke or small screwdriver to the end of the key. even something a little more viscous like metal set or jb weld might work best...

crazy glue might have a tough time sticking, but worth a try.

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Because of the way the key has twisted and snapped there is no way of fishing in out.

If possible I hope to just get the barrel out and replace it. It's awkward to get into the 2 torx screws to drop the bottom off.

I'm not sure how the barrel is linked to the steering lock.

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This happened to me me on a California Trip, I had to take off the whole top clamp and unplug the ignition. Took that clamp assembly to the locksmith shop in Eureka CA and he drilled out the security bolts and then he was able to get the broken key part out since he now had better access to the lock. Then he used the broken part to make a new key, of course it was not HISS so you will have to get a HISS blank. I can see if the locksmith cant do it on the bike but once they have it at thier shop with all the tools and apart it should be easier to work on. He of course put in new bolts but they were not security bolts, I suppose I can just fill the hex head in with soldier? Same results.

AHH SHOOT

You have it in your garage so just loosen the clip on handle bars and slide them off the top of the forks pull them out of the way, then loosen the main top center bolt and that should come off rather easy. You may need to lift the bike off the front wheel to get any tension off the top clamp, do this by putting the bike on the center stand and then jacking the bike up with a jack under the headers, dont worry about you header it is industry standard to lift the bike by the header by a jack, its in the owners manual if you dont believe me. Then the top clamp should slide off the forks and then unplug the ignition connector.

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One last question, does the fact that the steering lock is on affect whether or not the lock and barrel will come away from the bike?

Based on what Miguel said, I think you just need to remove the top yoke and the ignition barrel comes away with it.

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