Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 8, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2012 I've had my bike for about 2 months now ('99 VFR800FI) and have had to adjust the chain twice already. (I bought the bike used, with about 58k miles on it, and no idea when the chain/sprockets were last replaced.) Everything I have read indicates that their should be .75 - 1.5 inches of deflection in the chain while on the center stand. Does that sound correct? The first time I adjusted it to .75 inches and withing a few days (~200 miles) the deflection had gone to 1.5 inches. I let it go for a while, until the chain started hitting the center stand while in the up position, and adjusted it to 1 inch of deflection. Well, after just a couple of days, the chain is already hitting the center stand when in the up position and has enough free play to touch the bottom chain slide on the swing arm. The chain and sprockets look fine, no visible signs of wear or distortion. Am I performing the adjustments incorrectly, measuring incorrectly, or am I just due for a new chain (and possibly sprockets)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted September 8, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2012 If you haven't been overtightening it, i.e. it doesn't have much deflection at some point in the chain travel with the bike on the centerstand, then it's time to replace the chain. After I put on a new, quality (DID or RK) chain it will need to be adjusted after a couple hundred miles or less. After that adjustment, maybe after a few thousand miles it may need to be snugged up a touch. If I have to adjust more than once in a couple thousand miles then I figure the chain is on its way out. A well lubed chain will last around 20,000 miles, or more depending how well lubed it is. BTW, and I'm sure you know this, it's better to be a bit too loose than a little too tight. I put mine on the centerstand and push up on the chain. If it is close to underside of the swingarm with a minimum of force, I figure it's good. I may be going about it wrong, but that's the way I do it. I also rotate the wheel and check in multiple places and go by the area with the least amount of slack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 8, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2012 Hmm, OK. I need to more thoroughly check that I don't have any tight spots as i rotate the chain all the way around a full rotation. (I did spot check it, but I think I need to double-check it at more closely measured intervals.) I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. Note that I can't fit my torque wrench on the bearing holder pinch bold so don't know if I'm tightening to exactly 54 lbs-ft, but I'm nearly certain that I'm getting it tight enough to not slip. I'm using the factory supplied tool kit wrench with the extension and putting nearly all the force I can manage (and would guess that if anything, I am over tightening it). (I've been wrenching on cars for many years and have a pretty good feel for approximate torque values when a torque wrench just won't fit.) But just to be sure, I'm going to mark things the next time I adjust it and make sure that's not the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I've had my bike for about 2 months now ('99 VFR800FI) and have had to adjust the chain twice already. (I bought the bike used, with about 58k miles on it, and no idea when the chain/sprockets were last replaced.) Everything I have read indicates that their should be .75 - 1.5 inches of deflection in the chain while on the center stand. Does that sound correct? The first time I adjusted it to .75 inches and withing a few days (~200 miles) the deflection had gone to 1.5 inches. I let it go for a while, until the chain started hitting the center stand while in the up position, and adjusted it to 1 inch of deflection. Well, after just a couple of days, the chain is already hitting the center stand when in the up position and has enough free play to touch the bottom chain slide on the swing arm. The chain and sprockets look fine, no visible signs of wear or distortion. Am I performing the adjustments incorrectly, measuring incorrectly, or am I just due for a new chain (and possibly sprockets)? cheap chain will stretch fast, Good chain hardly ever need to adjust, maybe one to 3 times in its life span Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 put a mark on your adjuster , then you can tell if it moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericlw Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 ive never used a torque wrench on the pinch bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 Hmm, OK. I need to more thoroughly check that I don't have any tight spots as i rotate the chain all the way around a full rotation. (I did spot check it, but I think I need to double-check it at more closely measured intervals.) I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. Note that I can't fit my torque wrench on the bearing holder pinch bold so don't know if I'm tightening to exactly 54 lbs-ft, but I'm nearly certain that I'm getting it tight enough to not slip. I'm using the factory supplied tool kit wrench with the extension and putting nearly all the force I can manage (and would guess that if anything, I am over tightening it). (I've been wrenching on cars for many years and have a pretty good feel for approximate torque values when a torque wrench just won't fit.) But just to be sure, I'm going to mark things the next time I adjust it and make sure that's not the problem. Thats a bolt you really should torque and use a quality tool on, generally if a chain developes tight spots, will will not show stetch, cause the kinking prevents full stetch out of the chain. 58,000 miles, more than likely its atleast had two chains and that one is on the way out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted September 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. You may notice when you sit on the bike that the chain no longer hits the center stand. As long as it isn't slapping against the C-stand when riding it should be ok. I keep mine just tight enough to touch the bottom of the swingarm. I've only had to adjust it about once a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 If the chain is worn, it will need more adjusting. Clean the chain very good and don't lube it. Take the bike for a ride. If there is a lot of clicking and clunking from the chain, it should be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. You may notice when you sit on the bike that the chain no longer hits the center stand. As long as it isn't slapping against the C-stand when riding it should be ok. I keep mine just tight enough to touch the bottom of the swingarm. I've only had to adjust it about once a year. Thanks for that tip. I'll check and see how close to the c-stand the chain is with weight on the suspension. Say, if you are in Rocklin we might be neighbors. I live near the Rocklin Thunder HS, how about you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 If the chain is worn, it will need more adjusting. Clean the chain very good and don't lube it. Take the bike for a ride. If there is a lot of clicking and clunking from the chain, it should be replaced. Thanks. I'll give that a try and see what things sound like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted September 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. You may notice when you sit on the bike that the chain no longer hits the center stand. As long as it isn't slapping against the C-stand when riding it should be ok. I keep mine just tight enough to touch the bottom of the swingarm. I've only had to adjust it about once a year. Thanks for that tip. I'll check and see how close to the c-stand the chain is with weight on the suspension. Say, if you are in Rocklin we might be neighbors. I live near the Rocklin Thunder HS, how about you? Sitting on the patio hearing whatever is going on at the HS stadium tonight as I type. Will send PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 9, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 Hmm, OK. I need to more thoroughly check that I don't have any tight spots as i rotate the chain all the way around a full rotation. (I did spot check it, but I think I need to double-check it at more closely measured intervals.) I can very easily push the chain up to touch the bottom of the swing arm, and like I said, it has enough slack to touch the center stand when hanging slack. That seems way too loose to me... Given that a chain is good, I would think that as long as I don't have an out of round condition in the sprockets causing a tight spot, even if I did over tighten a little, the chain would stretch to the slack it needs and stop. Note that I can't fit my torque wrench on the bearing holder pinch bold so don't know if I'm tightening to exactly 54 lbs-ft, but I'm nearly certain that I'm getting it tight enough to not slip. I'm using the factory supplied tool kit wrench with the extension and putting nearly all the force I can manage (and would guess that if anything, I am over tightening it). (I've been wrenching on cars for many years and have a pretty good feel for approximate torque values when a torque wrench just won't fit.) But just to be sure, I'm going to mark things the next time I adjust it and make sure that's not the problem. Thats a bolt you really should torque and use a quality tool on, generally if a chain developes tight spots, will will not show stetch, cause the kinking prevents full stetch out of the chain. 58,000 miles, more than likely its atleast had two chains and that one is on the way out. I'll have to see if I can get creative with a socket, a flexible extension, and the torque wrench... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 You dont need an extension, just a 3/8ths torgue wrench and a regular socket, preferably a 6 pointer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cogswell Posted September 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 9, 2012 Another way to check the condition of the chain is to grasp a link at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain any significant amount away from the sprocket - esp if you can see daylight between chain and sprocket, it's due for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monk Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 I've been finding out by going though chains as I learn, that it comes down to when I get a new chain I'll run it about a hundred and check & adjust, then about a 1000m later readjust, and it's good for muti K miles........ and when it start needing adjustment again then it's starting to get to the point of replacement again........... Lesson learned is loose is better than tight(as mentioned above)...........I stay between 1" to 1 and a quarter inches.......... I check on cs when chain is cool..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2012 I've been finding out by going though chains as I learn, that it comes down to when I get a new chain I'll run it about a hundred and check & adjust, then about a 1000m later readjust, and it's good for muti K miles........ and when it start needing adjustment again then it's starting to get to the point of replacement again........... Lesson learned is loose is better than tight(as mentioned above)...........I stay between 1" to 1 and a quarter inches.......... I check on cs when chain is cool..... You dont need an extension, just a 3/8ths torgue wrench and a regular socket, preferably a 6 pointer. Another way to check the condition of the chain is to grasp a link at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket. If you can pull the chain any significant amount away from the sprocket - esp if you can see daylight between chain and sprocket, it's due for replacement. OK, I cleaned the chain really well and gave it a whirl and it's relatively quiet. No tight spots as it rotates all the way around. I lubed it up, readjusted it, marked the adjustment point, managed to get my torque wrench on the pinch bolt and tightened it down to spec. I also checked the free play at the 3 o'clock position on the rear sprocket and it does have about 3/16" play, but no daylight between the chain and sprocket. Looks like I'm just about due for a new chain. Now comes the quandary of changing up the gearing... I use the bike for commuting during the week and pleasure on the weekends, and while I like getting the 45-48 mpg I'm seeing, I would also like a little more low end punch. I'm thinking stock on the front (17t) and plus 2 on the rear (45t) 530 Steel Sprocket Set w/ Your Choice of Premium D.I.D. 530 X'ring Chain - HONDA VFR 800F1 98-01 ##*D1080001 DID 530 CHAIN OPTIONS:DID 530 VX Gold X'ring FRONT SPROCKET SIZE:17 - Stock REAR SPROCKET SIZE:45 US $207.95 1 US $207.95 Anyone else running this combo and able to provide insight/feed-back? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 you want the zvm or the zvmx , not the cheaper VX crap on chain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FJ12Ryder Posted September 10, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2012 I have the 17-45 gearing on my "99 and really like it. It does turn a bit faster at highway speeds: about 5900 rpm vs about 5500 rpm at around 70 mph. But the trade-off is worth it IMO. I've changed a few other things so I don't know if the mileage changed any. You really think the DID VX chain won't be fine for the VFR? I don't know that I would classify any DID chain as "crap". I have the DID but don't remember which one I bought. I'm pretty sure I bought the VX and have a little over 16,000 miles on it. I haven't been as good as I should have been with oiling it so another 4,000 miles or so and it will be time to replace it. The stock chain went 19,300 miles, also with less than perfect maintenance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 10, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 10, 2012 Thanks FJ12Ryder, That's about the change I was hoping for. spud786, I thougth all of the DID chains were supposed to be pretty high quality. Is there really a noticable difference bewteen the 3 grades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monk Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I've had DID chains that got tight links and didn't last long.......but the http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/102395/new-did-530zvmx-super-street-series-1400cc-rated-xring-sealed-street-chain.html chain has made me a happy rider. It does what I want from a chain..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Thanks FJ12Ryder, That's about the change I was hoping for. spud786, I thougth all of the DID chains were supposed to be pretty high quality. Is there really a noticable difference bewteen the 3 grades? Some DID chains are no better than any one elses, Thats why I mentioned the specific chain , either zvm, VM, or Zvmx grade of DID chain. The VX line is a Budget chain, smaller ect. I would not get that myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
indianagenius Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I've had DID chains that got tight links and didn't last long.......but the http://www.sprocketc...reet-chain.html chain has made me a happy rider. It does what I want from a chain..... Yep, that is the chain I have and it hasn't needed any adjustment with the first 1000 miles. I'm guessing this beast won't stretch much if it is designed for a Hayabusa, ZX14, etc.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rydn4fun Posted September 11, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted September 11, 2012 Been using a prooiler since I replaced the chain last time and I haven't had to adjust in the 8500 miles since I installed them. I do run it on the loose side if that makes any differance. One of the vey few things that I have found to be better loose than tight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted September 16, 2012 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 16, 2012 OK, The recently adjusted chain is already way beyond loose and the pinch bolt/adjustment point didn't budge. It's stretching like there's no tomorrow... So i bit the bullet and ordered a new chain and sprocket set. 530 Steel Sprocket Set w/ Your Choice of Premium D.I.D. 530 X'ring Chain - HONDA VFR 800F1 98-01 -FRONT SPROCKET SIZE: 17 - Stock -DID 530 CHAIN OPTIONS: DID 530 ZVMX Gold X'ring ($39.00) -REAR SPROCKET SIZE: 45 ($13.00) It should be here mid-week and I've already got Friday off work and penciled in as a maintenance day. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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