Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted February 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2012 Really my point was you have no first hand information from using the LiFePO batteries and even your AGM battery usage is restricted to fairly moderate weather riding on 1 bike.)) Ive been though several bikes with factory sealed agm batteries, 3 of those happen to be on the vfr. I can understand not being ridden is not good for a battery, they can sulfate quicker. True my first hand Lipo is only by those who have issue, quite a few, My experience with factory sealed AGM's, Ive yet to see anyone post big numbers, they consistantly get me around 45,000 mile, before the first signs of degrade. Moderate cold, yes, rarely below the 30's but the temps reported by failure to start with liths were in the 40;s , but I have the opposite temp issue, Exteme Heat, car batteries here average failures every 5 years, but in the north they last much longer my my research and reporting. My garage in the summer even at midnight totally nakid, you'll sweatt like a dog, its well around 130 degrees during the day, not very good for a battery storage either. I think in a cooler climate, id get alot more life. But every battery I install, I expect trouble free life for a long time barring neglect, All my sealed agms have yielded me consistantly well over 40,000 miles , before early signs of degrade(they still work) just not to my spec. But Ive not seen orHeard anyone reported such life with a Lipo. Thats all im saying, sure there will be guinie Pigs to find out, but as with the moty, some came away dissapointed. I'll stick with proven long life design till the numbers come in. Damn - can we just agree to disagree and get back on topic here, or go back to a thread about batteries and you two can battle royale over there. Truth of the matter is that most of us don't have the time of day to diddle in this shit and I take Tightwad's reccomendation any day. He's proven to help me out of a jam while you my friend Spud, have proven nothing other than you don't have a lot of tact in giving your opinion and telling other people they don't know shit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 My apologies...I shouldn't have taken this thread off track. Hopefully the OP will give updates to his fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 OH6, Your out of line actually, But thats okay its a forum, I was actually right on the battery size( FYI Refuting) incorrect information, what more proof do you want? Doesnt really matter though does it, Put your order and get a lithium , if thats the recommend you value, go for it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted February 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2012 That's not what I reccomend I have an AGM and I'm fine with it People have different opinions and I value (most) of them on the sites (sorry Slammer I VFRW on the weekends) but what I don't value is someone that doesn't know how to respectfully disagree without getty snotty (i.e. most of your posts). Spud, you've overcooked your taters on the subject, get over it and let the battery thing rest so we can get back on topic here, that's all I'm saying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I think our discussion was pretty much over , your intervene just drug it out and added defnite off thread topic. There are already thread POLICE if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted February 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2012 Normally it's me getting into arguments, but this time I'll just Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted February 7, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2012 Sooo, not many here know me, but just take my word for how retarded I am when it comes to electronic diagnosis and generally anything wiring or testing related. Spee and SikD can attest to this if you need lolz. Hokay, so, here's my problem: I'm freezing my ass off going/coming from work so I invested in some heat gear (suuuuuuuper sweet!!!) but as of now it's too much wattage for my stock system to handle. It's draining the battery to the point where the bike starts cutting out while I'm riding it if I have full electrical power to *everything. Here's *everything: Heated grips (idk watts), Jacket liner (90w), and gloves (24w). Here's yet to come: Heated pant liner (35w) and socks (18w), HID low/hi beams (might decrease the wattage a lil??), Maybe LED brake/running light My initial solution: I figured my battery is 8 years old, prolly need a new one. So I just (yesterday) put a new Shorai heavy duty Lithium Iron battery in the Viffer and this morning riding out I got twice as far on full power (almost all the way to work!) as I did with the oem battery, however the same thing happened. Bike started to cut out due to lack of electrical power. :Edit: Here's some questions and responses I have received from my other (http://www.http://sloriders.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=5672) (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17536800#post17536800) forums: Originally Posted by GrizzledOl'Bastard I know it's disgustingly cold where your riding but you can cheat a little buy not running your heat gear at full power? If I might ask, who builds your shit? (Heated Gear). What kind of controller are you using to modulate your gear? A Gerbings controller like I run utilizes a pulse control system. It pulses energy to the gear. It's not just "on" with constant free flowing energy to the item. This helps with the load to some degree. If you have heated gloves, fuck the grips. Another way to cheat the system a little. I try to only use my gear if I absolutely have to (at least for right now), but in the future I'd *like* to be able to use some or all of it whenever I please. All of my stuff is from 1st Gear ( Warm & Safe ) except for the grip warmers . This is the controller I'm running and I believe it does the pulse thing. And I've only been using the grips when I don't have the heated gloves on. Originally Posted by GrizzledOl'Bastard This may seem pretty elementary but heated gear is designed to be snug, not loose like we normally wear our clothing. It should be the second layer on your body and snug so it transmits heat that is not lost in dead air space. Air is a shitty conductor of heat, and cold for that fact. Doing it this way will allow lower settings saving you wattage. My gear is as snug as it can be without ripping when I move, but like you said, it's disgustingly cold out there so it takes a lot to keep warm. I'm playing with different layers of clothing in between the liner & the jacket, but it's a tight squeeze. Originally Posted by GrizzledOl'Bastard Lastly, I'm not familiar enough to know what year your ride is. Many of the earlier models had inherent R/R issues so that needs to be cleared up now, too. Anytime your voltage drops below about 13.6-13.8V while your rolling, you will end up in a battery depleted situation like you are now. Not only will that kill your battery, but it will fry your charging system. In the meantime, can you connect to a battery charger when your not riding? The charging system is not designed to recharge a depleted battery,but just top-off a slightly used battery. I've got a 2003 Honda VFR 800 (ABS Model), there is a recall on the wiring harness and brakes that I have yet to look into to see if it has been done. I'll be getting on that shortly. I do have a trickle charger at my disposal and have been using it as necessary. Any help/ suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks folks! The Grizzled Old Bastard is pretty much spot-on. I too have a Gerbings liner, gloves, and heated grips on my 5th gen. I never light up the grips when I'm using the gloves. I use 'em when I'm wearing my regular gloves just to take the chill off if it gets a bit cool. I have seen ambient temps into the mid 20s, and never had to run my gear full-up. This is with perfed leathers, and the stock screen! As to the whole battery thing I'm an AGM user myself, but no matter what type of battery you use you should be able to power the gear you have as long as your RPMs are above idle. I turn my gear down whenever I slow to city speeds. If I didn't I'd start sweating. As I posted in another thread here the VFR charging system is very sensitive to any faults, and most problems seem to come from bad connections, and trying to extend the life of components beyond what is known to be safe. Check the connections/wiring first (cheapest & easiest) then look at hard parts. When in doubt replace with quality parts. Using cheap stuff will bite you in the ass eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hokay, so, think I found the problem... Anyone have suggestions on where to buy a replacement high output stator? Someone posted up about checking into buying the oem one as there were two made at different points in the year, I plan on looking that part up when I get a chance. I had originally ordered an electro sport stator (boasting a 20% gain) the end of December, however they've been on a nation-wide back order with no end in sight. Either that or does someone know of a place that does custom re-wiring/wrapping of stators? I'm not up to the task of DIY r&r on a stator. Also, replaced the regulator a couple months ago and was averaging 13.1-13.5 during reg throttle ranges for the last 2 months, finally started dropping down to nothing again, so I need to get the r/r tested again and make sure I don't have to replace that again. That one is an electro sport r/r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MBrane Posted February 27, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 27, 2012 Yeah it's normal for the stator to be darker on top, but that one is looking pretty well-done. I currently have Rick's stators/ R/Rs in the GF's, and my bike. Both are holding up fine with high mileage & heated gear. Make sure you check voltages after you get the new stator in to be sure everything else is working right. In fact with VFRs it's not a bad idea to keep fresh parts in stock to keep downtime to a minimum so if you have no spares might as well order 'em up now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I haven't had a failure yet from the Ricks Stators I have sold. I also hear there is a guy who can rewind yours...I don't have his companies name however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer mello dude Posted February 28, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2012 I haven't had a failure yet from the Ricks Stators I have sold. I also hear there is a guy who can rewind yours...I don't have his companies name however. Here's the rewire option.. http://www.customrewind.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted February 28, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2012 I went with Ricks from Tightwad and it has worked great. Your stator looks like mine did, nice and toasted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted February 28, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 28, 2012 The fun part is scraping off that cooked on green gasket material! Took me longer to do that than the whole rest of the R&R of the stator. Hope you tied a fish wire/string to the stator-R/R connector before pulling it thru... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted February 29, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted February 29, 2012 The fun part is scraping off that cooked on green gasket material! Took me longer to do that than the whole rest of the R&R of the stator. Hope you tied a fish wire/string to the stator-R/R connector before pulling it thru... I use the seriously poisonous gasket remover spray from Permatex. Works a treat, but you do not want to breathe it in or get it on your hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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