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Rear Pad Too Thick?


Guest DarkKnight

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Guest DarkKnight

Just bought a set of Galfer Blacks (FD205G1054 front; FD207G1054 rear) for the scooter (98). The rear pad seems too thick(?). The part numbers are correct for the application, but with the anti vibe wafer and the metal backing dohickey they won't fit... SO I pulled the wafer and got them to install. Can barely turn rotor. Issue besides the obvious is that the Galfers don't have the gas groove so I CUT MY OWN (which is something I normally do with the pads on my car). So now I OWN a set of pads that are too thick. Is this issue common? Or do the gurus already know that the rear Galfer FD207G1054 is actually too thick for the 5 gen that it is prescribed for and they just buy 3 sets of fronts? Next up: since I OWN said pad, whats the best way to remove the extra thickness (evenly)? All help is always greatly appreciated! +1.gif

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yes; had to c clamp it a bit but they were all flush when i installed then pads. Good Morning!

Good Morning! +1.gif

Well, other than pushing the pistons in, I dunno. Never had that happen to me. :goofy:

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I've only heard of perhaps one other person having this similar issue... don't remember who or when though, lol. Thanks for the input... maybe someone has some ideas...

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if you can turn wheel freely with just installed pads, but then it is tight after you depress brake lever, then it is the pistons.

I believe the rotor will warp if you try to ride it this way, so I guess it is a quandry.

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Hey darknight, a couple issues come to mind. First would be that your rear caliper pistons are not fully retracted. You said they were flush but sometimes that last couple mm's is all it takes to mess everything up. Also the pistons shouldn't be "too" hard to push in. If they slide relatively easy for 3/4 travel then start to get real stiff at the end...time for an overhaul. You risk them dragging and overheating. Also it seems to me vfr's have the same brake pads front and rear? (it is early though). Lastly I have on occasion received new brake pads that are for some reason just a little too thick (I'm a mechanic though so I've changed hundreds of pad sets) but it is rare.

Now since your custom pads are now permanently yours, If all else fails the easiest way to "make em fit" I find, is to use a piece of 80 grit sand paper laid on a smooth workbench. You just evenly sand them down little bit at a time (friction media side down of course). Don't forget the dust will kill you. so wear a mask!

If you do go that route, once installed pump the lever a few times and make sure they're not dragging.

Good luck Jesse

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Hey darknight, a couple issues come to mind. First would be that your rear caliper pistons are not fully retracted. You said they were flush but sometimes that last couple mm's is all it takes to mess everything up. Also the pistons shouldn't be "too" hard to push in. If they slide relatively easy for 3/4 travel then start to get real stiff at the end...time for an overhaul. You risk them dragging and overheating. Also it seems to me vfr's have the same brake pads front and rear? (it is early though). Lastly I have on occasion received new brake pads that are for some reason just a little too thick (I'm a mechanic though so I've changed hundreds of pad sets) but it is rare.

Now since your custom pads are now permanently yours, If all else fails the easiest way to "make em fit" I find, is to use a piece of 80 grit sand paper laid on a smooth workbench. You just evenly sand them down little bit at a time (friction media side down of course). Don't forget the dust will kill you. so wear a mask!

If you do go that route, once installed pump the lever a few times and make sure they're not dragging.

Good luck Jesse

Yeah that's a good idea on the sandpaper, a wise old racer once told me to take your pads out every once and awhile and do a few circle eights on pad side down on a concrete sidewalk, to take any glazing off! Should also work to make your pads a bit smaller as well!

Good luck :fing02:

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Jesse and Luvmyvfr thanks. That basically was my plan as far as sanding. I will pull the caliper completely off and confirm their cleanliness. I went to a site that said all of the pads were interchangeable. That is possible; they are all the same backing plate. But I ordered the sets and their are two different numbers. That is the same with the factory (Honda) pads as well. If I would have purchased all fronts, their would be no issue. These pads(rear)are visually thicker; I noticed AFTER I installed both fronts. I'll call cyclegear and see if they have their customer is always right hat on; if not I'll sand them down--no harm no foul. Next time I won't be quite so trusting. What sucks is that several other websites that sell this pad have the identical numbers for the same applications. I may just have a flyer set for the rear...

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if you can turn wheel freely with just installed pads, but then it is tight after you depress brake lever, then it is the pistons.

I believe the rotor will warp if you try to ride it this way, so I guess it is a quandry.

Thanks Timmy; its the pads fer sure... I had to really 'squeeze' them in to fit. Wheel wouldn't turn freely. I rode down the street for about 20 yds and back--dragging badly. Parked the scooter till tonite when she goes back under the knife.

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The rear pads come with a heat shield, not anti vibe. Smaller disc and less air down there transfers alot of heat back into the caliper. It is possible to overheat the brake and lose pressure. I have done it, I tend to use my rear brake alot. I have to train myself not too.

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The rear pads come with a heat shield, not anti vibe. Smaller disc and less air down there transfers alot of heat back into the caliper. It is possible to overheat the brake and lose pressure. I have done it, I tend to use my rear brake alot. I have to train myself not too.

I guess I'll be shaving the pad (to the same thickness as the fronts) and put the wafer deally and the metal deally back on. How do I thank folks HS?

Success!! I pulled the rear fat pads, took em to my belt sander a bit... seemed like it was taking for ever... (I MODERATELY EDITED THIS BECAUSE WHAT I WROTE SOUNDED WAY TOO STUPID FOR A GROWN MAN TO TYPE). Problem solved.

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According to the Galfer online catalogue, the -205 pad is for the front and the -207 pad is for the rear.

That was found by searching "207" on the .pdf here, found on page 24:

http://www.galferusa.com/VIP/Galfer%20Catalog.pdf

The thickness issue surprises me, and I don't doubt what you're saying is correct, as when you have both sets in your hand and set them together, the thickness difference would be immediately apparent.

The thing I keep wondering about is if the different Galfer part numbers are due to different friction levels intended for front/rear?

Why don't you email Galfer and ask them? TECH@GALFERUSA.COM

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Thanks Veefer; my first post agrees with the part numbers you describe. I really appreciate the email address: Getting on that first thing Monday! Ive seen advertised that the 205 can be used front or rear. I even understand why the 207 would be thicker--due to the skinnier rear rotor. I just couldn't get the two pads into the caliper even with the pistons completely compressed. Will be following up on this. The brakes feel good... just want to know what the error is. It may be me.

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I just put in a set of those pads with no problem...

I think the Goldwing pads use the same "baseplate" but the pad material is thicker by a millimeter or so...

You had no issues with the rear at all? Were all three of you sets the same thickness or are you referring to the fact that the rears for the goldwing are thicker?

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Heard back from Galfer: Their indication was that this is an anomaly. Also, Galfer doesn't recommend the heat shields be reinstalled with their pads. I told them that I initially tried with then without the heat shields. They went on without the heat shields--but I could barely move the bike, lol. I then asked (unashamedly) for stickers... Here's the email and response:

"Howdy Folk,

I recently purchased a set of 1054’s for my ‘98 VFR Interceptor. The rear set (the 207’s) was too thick to fit the caliper installed on the rotor. I removed the caliper, cleaned the caliper and completely depressed all three pistons and the pads would not fit. Is this a common issue? I was unable to return them (since the 1054 for my ride doesn’t have degassing grooves, I cut one in each pad) so I basically whittled the pads down so that they would fit with the heat shields and backing plates installed. The pads stop the bike exceptionally well; I’ll probably by the product again. However, if this is a common issue, I’ll purchase 3 sets of 205’s instead. I understand that the rear pad being a TAD thicker is normal; the rear rotor on the VFR is narrower than the fronts, but it was so bad that I couldn’t install them. Oh, and could you send some stickers; I don’t race, but I do advertise for good products!

Thank You

M. Hogan

11603 Forest Wind Ln

Houston Tx, 77066"

And the response--very prompt might I add:

"Martin,

Thank you for the feedback on the pads. This is not a common issue with our brake pads. We do recommend that upon installation of the new pads, that you do not re-use the heat shields that come on the OEM pads. This may be the reason that there were some clearance issues. We appreciate you purchasing Galfer pads and hope you continue to have a good experience with them. I will put some stickers in the mail for you today.

Thank you,

Aaron Hudak

Distributor Development

Sponsorship Manager

Galfer Brakes USA

Accossato USA

310 Irving Dr.

Oxnard, CA 93030

800-685-6633

Aaron@galferusa.com"

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Pads should be the same front & rear on a 5th Gen.

Two different numbers for front and rear rotors. So says Galfer. Honda has two different part numbers as well.

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Just bought a set of Galfer Blacks (FD205G1054 front; FD207G1054 rear) for the scooter (98). The rear pad seems too thick(?). The part numbers are correct for the application, but with the anti vibe wafer and the metal backing dohickey they won't fit... SO I pulled the wafer and got them to install. Can barely turn rotor. Issue besides the obvious is that the Galfers don't have the gas groove so I CUT MY OWN (which is something I normally do with the pads on my car). So now I OWN a set of pads that are too thick. Is this issue common? Or do the gurus already know that the rear Galfer FD207G1054 is actually too thick for the 5 gen that it is prescribed for and they just buy 3 sets of fronts? Next up: since I OWN said pad, whats the best way to remove the extra thickness (evenly)? All help is always greatly appreciated! :blink:

Most likely fixed by now? but do the pads have a knoch on the flat end? Some of the pads dont have it,like stock nissin fronts.

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