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Dutchy

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Spotted Dick? bascially pineapple upsidedown cake with raisins instead of pineapple

try some of these... (also real) ... used to live in the UK

porkfag.jpg

would call them "pork meatballs" in my country

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Spotted Dick? bascially pineapple upsidedown cake with raisins instead of pineapple

try some of these... (also real) ... used to live in the UK

porkfag.jpg

would call them "pork meatballs" in my country

MMMmmmmm......drrooool...........Pork Fagg@ts.......in rich West Country sauce too!!!......... :rolleyes:

Beck

95 VFR

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porkfag.jpg

Good stuff :biggrin:

I would like to see their TV commercial;

Kids, Who'se up for some delicious faggots?

I am, I am :laugh: :excl: :excl:

OR

Hey, Bob. Guess what my wife surprised me with during our anniversary dinner...

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porkfag.jpg

Good stuff :wheel:

I would like to see their TV commercial;

Kids, Who'se up for some delicious faggots?

I am, I am :huh: :laugh: :laugh:

OR

Hey, Bob. Guess what my wife surprised me with during our anniversary dinner...

Reminds me a bit of the time years ago when one of my visiting British clients said he was going to step outside and "blow a fag". I had no idea he was talking about having a cigarrette.

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I have heard really good things about POR-15. Check this out POR-15.

It burns off too, unfortunately.

Seb:

You just rained on my parade. I have a quart of it on the shelf and I decided that I was going to try it. I went on their website yesterday and re-researched the stuff before I try it. One thing they seemed to be adamant about was not using a solvent based cleaner to prep the metal (why I don't know). I went ahead and ordered their metal prep product and am going to give it a try. I had always used lacquer thinner as my final cleaning material before painting and maybe somehow, some way, I'm doing more harm than good by using that. The POR people specifically said not to use a solvent based cleaner on a piece to be painted.

POR also states that the paint doesn't cure until heated to atleast 300° F. I know I can get my rear head pipes and heat shield in my oven. I'm just wondering if last week's pizza left so sort of goo on the inside of the oven that might inhibit the curing of the pipes. Also, got to figure out a way to explain to the wife why the oven is warm when she gets home.

I can hear it how: "You think I'm gonna cook in that oven after it's been full of motorcycle parts?" "Well, we could bake up some spotted dick you know." "I find out you've been cooking motorcycle parts in my oven again and you'll wind up with a spotted dick."

Sometimes it's better if they just don't know.

Something out there's got to work. There's too many bikes that came with painted headers before the EPA mandated stainless steel pipes.

Pete

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I have heard really good things about POR-15. Check this out POR-15.

It burns off too, unfortunately.

Seb:

You just rained on my parade. I have a quart of it on the shelf and I decided that I was going to try it. I went on their website yesterday and re-researched the stuff before I try it. One thing they seemed to be adamant about was not using a solvent based cleaner to prep the metal (why I don't know). I went ahead and ordered their metal prep product and am going to give it a try. I had always used lacquer thinner as my final cleaning material before painting and maybe somehow, some way, I'm doing more harm than good by using that. The POR people specifically said not to use a solvent based cleaner on a piece to be painted.

POR also states that the paint doesn't cure until heated to atleast 300° F. I know I can get my rear head pipes and heat shield in my oven. I'm just wondering if last week's pizza left so sort of goo on the inside of the oven that might inhibit the curing of the pipes. Also, got to figure out a way to explain to the wife why the oven is warm when she gets home.

I can hear it how: "You think I'm gonna cook in that oven after it's been full of motorcycle parts?" "Well, we could bake up some spotted dick you know." "I find out you've been cooking motorcycle parts in my oven again and you'll wind up with a spotted dick."

Sometimes it's better if they just don't know.

Something out there's got to work. There's too many bikes that came with painted headers before the EPA mandated stainless steel pipes.

Pete

That's what vacation and sick days are for...but your wife does not have to know when you take one and go baking while she's at work!! :wheel:

Beck

95 VFR

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Is this thread going the way of the nut powder thread?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......... :laugh:

It could.................... :wheel:

100_5559.jpg

Everytime I see this pic in the forum I cna only think....."Oh god, please don't get too near those poor people!" :laugh: :huh:

Beck

95 VFR

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Is this thread going the way of the nut powder thread?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......... :laugh:

It could.................... :wheel:

100_5559.jpg

Everytime I see this pic in the forum I cna only think....."Oh god, please don't get too near those poor people!" :laugh: :huh:

Beck

95 VFR

Beck:

Are those some of your SF neighbors/buds?

Pete

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I don't recommend the Jet Coat treatment for a couple of reasons:

1. I've seen some really crappy jobs.

2. If you look down inside a set of '98/'99 headers or use one of the remote video camera things you get at Home Depot, you will find there are sections of "muffler" down inside the front header. It's not just all stamped steel. There are sections with perforated baffling sections running parallel to the exhaust flow. That's what those bulges on the front header section are. I'm not sure what effect Jet Coating will have on this internal baffling/muffler sections.

Hey Pete, if you decide the whole paint thing is too much, I have a guy here in Athens that does all my powdercoating. He also has ceramic coatings and does go-cart headers, car headers, and did my '98 headers. He does not do the inside like Jet-Hot, so you get the looks of paint, but better protection on the outside than paint. He can do silver, black, red, and maybe one other color. Price would probably be in the $125 range. Let me know if you are interested..........or if anyone else is interested for that matter.

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Is this thread going the way of the nut powder thread?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......... :laugh:

It could.................... :wheel:

100_5559.jpg

Everytime I see this pic in the forum I cna only think....."Oh god, please don't get too near those poor people!" :laugh: :huh:

Beck

95 VFR

Beck:

Are those some of your SF neighbors/buds?

Pete

Nah...That scene actually looks too tame for SF!

Beck

95 VFR

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I don't recommend the Jet Coat treatment for a couple of reasons:

1. I've seen some really crappy jobs.

2. If you look down inside a set of '98/'99 headers or use one of the remote video camera things you get at Home Depot, you will find there are sections of "muffler" down inside the front header. It's not just all stamped steel. There are sections with perforated baffling sections running parallel to the exhaust flow. That's what those bulges on the front header section are. I'm not sure what effect Jet Coating will have on this internal baffling/muffler sections.

Hey Pete, if you decide the whole paint thing is too much, I have a guy here in Athens that does all my powdercoating. He also has ceramic coatings and does go-cart headers, car headers, and did my '98 headers. He does not do the inside like Jet-Hot, so you get the looks of paint, but better protection on the outside than paint. He can do silver, black, red, and maybe one other color. Price would probably be in the $125 range. Let me know if you are interested..........or if anyone else is interested for that matter.

He did my passenger peg/tie down brackets remember. Not bad work but not the greatest either. Very reasonable in what he charged.

I think I've decided to go with the Tech Line Coatings Satin Black. $49.95 for a 12 oz container. It's not a rattle can paint, have to apply it with a sprayer. Luckily I worked in a body shop in high school so I have some pretty good painting skills. Seb rained on my parade about the POR. I already had the POR paint, I just ordered their metal cleaner yesterday. Probably wouldn't hurt to use it for cleaning before spraying the pipes.

One thing that Tech Line was adamant about is that you need to sand blast the pipes with some fairly rough aluminum oxide or sand first. They frown on the smooth finish that sandpaper gives as far as the paint sticking to the pipes.

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He did my passenger peg/tie down brackets remember. Not bad work but not the greatest either. Very reasonable in what he charged.

Now that you mention it, I do. I had forgotten though. You are right, not top of the line work, but not bad either. I probably wouldn't use him for a show bike, but for the exhaust on a bike that I ride and gets beaten up from use, it works for me.

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I don't recommend the Jet Coat treatment for a couple of reasons:

1. I've seen some really crappy jobs.

2. If you look down inside a set of '98/'99 headers or use one of the remote video camera things you get at Home Depot, you will find there are sections of "muffler" down inside the front header. It's not just all stamped steel. There are sections with perforated baffling sections running parallel to the exhaust flow. That's what those bulges on the front header section are. I'm not sure what effect Jet Coating will have on this internal baffling/muffler sections.

Hey Pete, if you decide the whole paint thing is too much, I have a guy here in Athens that does all my powdercoating. He also has ceramic coatings and does go-cart headers, car headers, and did my '98 headers. He does not do the inside like Jet-Hot, so you get the looks of paint, but better protection on the outside than paint. He can do silver, black, red, and maybe one other color. Price would probably be in the $125 range. Let me know if you are interested..........or if anyone else is interested for that matter.

He did my passenger peg/tie down brackets remember. Not bad work but not the greatest either. Very reasonable in what he charged.

I think I've decided to go with the Tech Line Coatings Satin Black. $49.95 for a 12 oz container. It's not a rattle can paint, have to apply it with a sprayer. Luckily I worked in a body shop in high school so I have some pretty good painting skills. Seb rained on my parade about the POR. I already had the POR paint, I just ordered their metal cleaner yesterday. Probably wouldn't hurt to use it for cleaning before spraying the pipes.

One thing that Tech Line was adamant about is that you need to sand blast the pipes with some fairly rough aluminum oxide or sand first. They frown on the smooth finish that sandpaper gives as far as the paint sticking to the pipes.

Yes, please do not sand/scuff them, the coating needs a good profile to adhere well, meaning they need to be blasted to white metal, be sure to preclean them VERY well before ANY blasting is done, this needs to be done before hand! If you don't then you will be blasting IN the oil and contaminants into the metal and will make it REALLY hard to then get it clean, it should also be cleaned again before coating.

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