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Cool Voltmeter Alternative


Tightwad

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A number of riders here use Volt Meters (Datel being the preferred unit). There are also a large number of riders who use a Signal Dynamics LED that indicates charging status. Both options are good, and 100% up to the owner as to which they like.

In the search for a good meter to supply, I came across this updated version of the Signal Dynamics indicator.

http://www.lascarelectronics.com/pdf-usb-d...01196093175.pdf

FPSI-1010-1_large.gif

This meter can be custom set for low/norm/high charging voltage, as well as set to either blink the charging status (to save battery) or to show it constant. In addition, it can trigger an alarm when the voltage is outside of the "Green" range. It would be possible to use this as a safety valve to shut down your auxiliary fuse panel in the event of a loss of charging!

I thought it was cool, but I am a nerd.

*edit* for those who don't feel like reading the Datasheet linked, it measures .5" x .5" on the hole, so still quite small. It requires "programming" so it wouldn't work just out of the box.

Ok, I promised a review so here goes....

I ordered 2 of the Charging Status Indicators. They arrived rather promptly, which is to be hoped for when shipping is much too high. I ordered two to defray the shipping cost, figuring there would be at least two people who could use one.

chargingstatusindicatorve9.jpg

The box when received is woefully oversized, given the indicator itself measures a paltry .59 x .59 x .8 inches. I was actually worried I would drop it and lose it... The instructions are in more languages than I can recognize, but the first is English so I was able to proceed.

chargingstatusindicatordr0.jpg

chargingstatusindicatorld2.jpg

Out of the box they are configured to go from red to green at 10 volts, then green to red at 20 volts. This just wouldn't do of course, unless the warning you want is "hey idiot, your battery is dead" or "hey moron, your Regulator isn't regulating and everything is cooked including that really expensive computer".

Luckily changing the voltage is very easy, providing you have an adjustable power supply handy, or something that can simulate exactly the voltage you want such as an odd assortment of AA batteries. I happen to have an adjustable power supply (which I built myself) so I was in luck. All it requires is that you set the initial voltage, place the jumper then remove it, then set the next voltage, place the jumper and remove it. Lastly, if you want it to blink the status insteady of a steady light, you change the voltage by 1.4 volts or more, then place and remove the jumper one more time. I opted NOT to do this on the testing as blinking lights would be annoying while I ride, and others probably feel the same. The blinking option is included for battery saving purposes mainly anyway, and if an LED is the go-no go on my battery the thing is already shot.

Wiring the Indicator is also very easy. I tried to show the wires connected, but basically it is a power wire, a ground wire, and a sensing wire. You can wire the power and sensing wire together if you want, or you can run the sensing wire to the battery for the best reading, but the power wire to a switched source so the light isn't always on. I prefer to have a switched source with no voltage drop, so I would just connect mine to my auxiliary fuse panel anyway. Small gauge wire is all that is needed or recommended really...I used 18 gauge for my test hookup.

chargingstatusindicatordw7.jpgchargingstatusindicatorxd6.jpg

I shot a short very poor video (using my still camera, hand held, while also balancing a box on my head to block extra light) to demonstrate the functionality.

You can see in the Video that the Red goes to Green at 12.6 Volts, and then back to Red and 15 volts. When going down the Red goes to green at 14.5 volts, and back to red at 12.1 volts. I am not really sure why there is a .5 volt differential, but I like it because I would hate to have the thing going from green to red and back too fast.

I have two of these available if someone wants one, $40 setup to the voltages of your choice and shipped to your door first class mail.

Thanks for reading!

Tightwad

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That looks like a neat piece. Other than the little bit of programming, the display should be dummy-proof. Green=good Red=bad. I guess they are called idiot lights for a reason.

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Tightwad,

Are you going to carry the idiot light and do the programming? If so, how much and is it available from you URL?

Thanks for the update and info.

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I don't see anything about it being waterproof?

I highly doubt it is waterproof, please don't drive your bike underwater. However, being an LED, there isn't anything for water to hurt, unless you submerge it.

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Tightwad,

Are you going to carry the idiot light and do the programming? If so, how much and is it available from you URL?

Thanks for the update and info.

I have considered getting one to review, although I have no need for it (hasn't stopped me in the past...). Price is very set on them, about $29 plus shipping from the supplier. Shipping would be the killer on individual units, so it isn't as attractive as I would wish. I have found the same true for the Datel meters. I would probably charge $40 for this meter if I stocked it, plus shipping as applicable.

Programming would be simple, more than happy to do that for anyone who wanted. It just requires an adjustable powersupply.

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For me, reading wiring diagrams is like trying to read Chinese Mandarin. I can do it, but it takes a lot of time and energy. Would this be an easy wiring installation, or a frustrating experience for me? :huh: I would be interested in having one of these just because I can, not because I need it. :biggrin:

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For me, reading wiring diagrams is like trying to read Chinese Mandarin. I can do it, but it takes a lot of time and energy. Would this be an easy wiring installation, or a frustrating experience for me? :huh: I would be interested in having one of these just because I can, not because I need it. :biggrin:

Depends...if you want it to just read and go Red-Green-Red then it is 3 wires (2 positive, 1 ground). If you want an audible alarm, or to have it trigger a relay, that requires another circuit. I bet most people could install easily, especially if you have an auxilary fuse panel already to provide an easy spot to get power from.

Want me to demo it? Donate here: btn_donateCC_LG.gif

:huh:

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For me, reading wiring diagrams is like trying to read Chinese Mandarin. I can do it, but it takes a lot of time and energy. Would this be an easy wiring installation, or a frustrating experience for me?

Well is it short or long form characters???? (or maybe pinyin) :-)

...

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That's one of the things I like about my Escort 8500 radar detector, it has a mode for the display to read voltage except when it detects radar / laser. It's very acurate and I don't have to add a voltage meter. At least one other radar detect does this also (I think BEL).

ki-speed (Mark)

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Considering the possible problems that our generation 6 VFR are having a way of monitoring the voltage might be helpful. I do not have a ground problem and the recall HAS been done on my bike.

I would be interested in this item so long as it fits in the cowl and is plug and play.

My Scorpio alarm was quite simple to wire and I learned a great deal while connecting the FuzeBlock.

A meter would be my next addition.

Brian

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That's one of the things I like about my Escort 8500 radar detector, it has a mode for the display to read voltage except when it detects radar / laser. It's very acurate and I don't have to add a voltage meter. At least one other radar detect does this also (I think BEL).

ki-speed (Mark)

:biggrin: I bought a voltmeter from Tightwad but it's just collecting dust now that I use my 8500 for voltage. I had the 8500 first, I forgot to RTFM... If anyone needs a voltmeter Pm me, I'm not trying to make a profit on it.

*The voltmeter has been sold*

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Thanks for the heads-up on the Escort 8500 voltage meter feature. I have one of these radar detectors and didn't even know it had this feature available. Can't wait to get home and play with it!

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To me I prefer a meter to a simple light, and the extra $20 is worth it. Some prefer the simplicity of a light. I figured this option was cool enough to mention for those who want it. I will order two and do a writeup on it....but I probably won't actually install it as I don't need a second hole in my panel. It will fit quite nicely I think, so that won't be a problem for those looking for some peace of mind.

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I have an older Valentine. Got the wife an Escort (AFTER her ticket :biggrin: ) for her cage. Didn't know it had it either... Might have to swap :huh:

A note to those using their Radar Detectors, if the Detector is powered through the ignition switch, instead of relayed from the battery, your reading could be a false low, so don't panic before you test on the battery directly to verify.

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I think that these changing color LED volt monitors are just a liitle bit too "abbreviated" for some. I think it's good to monitor a trending voltage instead of a pass/fail approach. I'm afraid that if that things changes to a red glow, it might be too late to seek a limp home method before everything fades to black on the bike on the road. JMO

Beck

95 VFR

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I use a Dyna Charge Monitor DCM-1 to gauge the health of my charging system. Below is the "blurb" and website. I installed the Dyna on the inside of my left cowling with direct connection to the fuse panel and ground. Two wire only and no programming required. The little gizmo is compact and sealed so I'm assuming waterproof. This summer, at the Nelson Rally, I started to get a low voltage condition (red light on instead of the OK green). The hotter the weather and slower I drove the more red light I got. On the highway at speed (never faster than posted :biggrin:) the green would return. Once home I started the trouble shooting and found a fried stator. It seems I had a bad connector between the stator and the R/R and it burnt out the stator. All is good now and the happy green light is constantly on. I would recommend this device to all. By the way, the stock connector is long gone with a more positive connector joining the Stator to the R/R. Removing the connector made the routing of the wiring between the cylinders a piece o'cake.

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/a.../Dyna_Monitors/

Dynatek Charge Monitors

The Dyna Charge Monitor is a valuable addition to vehicles with a battery ignition and a charge system as found on nearly all stock vehicles. The Charge Monitor allows easy determination of the operational state of the charging system with a quick glance at the indicator LED's. The Charge Monitor is housed in the same small rugged case as the Voltage Monitor. The Charge monitor can be used on any vehicle with a 12 volt battery/charge system. The Charge Monitor has three indicator LED's to show the charge status: red, amber, and red. When the right most red LED is on, the battery is being overcharged due to a faulty voltage regulator. When the green LED is on, the battery is being charged at a normal voltage. When the left most red LED is on, the battery voltage is getting very low and the charge circuit or battery is failing.

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The small form factor, and clean mounting, plus the options to set an alarm or trigger a relay or what have you is what I like about this item....any bigger and I would want it to give me a live reading like my current one does.

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The small form factor, and clean mounting, plus the options to set an alarm or trigger a relay or what have you is what I like about this item....any bigger and I would want it to give me a live reading like my current one does.

I'm looking for one that gives the actual reading. What model do you have installed on your bike?

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