Member Contributer Oh6PearlVFR Posted October 5, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2011 Time to revive this ole thread with all the Electrical issues out there! Tightwad, any new input into these things on the market? I saw the new one from Signal Dynamics and it looks pretty decent for $26, still has the LED indicators and it looks like they updated the lighting sequencing since your original post? What do you guys think and what the hell do you call these things? Any place I call or Google and ask for a digital dash volt meter thinks I am crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 5, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 5, 2011 What about the Battery Bug? Seems like a good idea for not much more than just a voltmeter. It shows % life left, which is something I've never seen before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 5, 2011 Author Share Posted October 5, 2011 From what I hear the battery bug is not as accurate as it could be...I worked with someone to diagnose a non-issue the bug was reporting. Could have been just that instance of course. I liked the charging status indicators, but they are not available anymore. I am instead working on getting some that came up in another thread, and having the builder customize them for our specs. I had a cool idea on the ride home yesterday that would really make it sweet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 If somebody just wanted an idiot light, that seems usable. False light changes, due to heavy electrical load , would drive me nuts not knowing, so I think that lights perameters are fairly functional and usable for an idiot, light. Good Job on the Presentation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 Given that the electrical values are fairly constant unless you have a problem I don't see changes being an issue...I don't get concerned if my bike goes from 14.7 to 14.4 and back to 14.7....and the settings I am planning won't even note a change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Dutchy Posted October 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2011 the SD I got it programmed as follows: Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC – This prolonged over-voltage condition can destroy batteries, especially gel-cells. Steady Green - 12.9 - 15.24 Steady Amber -12.6 - 12.8 Steady Red - 12.1 - 12.5 Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC – During this condition, if the engine is running, do not shut down until service can be provided. Restart of engine is unlikely. Reduce electrical load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 I disagree atleast with a modern bike that monitors and adjusts, you can see anywhere from 13 volt idling with heavy electrical load , to 15volt, if a high charge rate is needed. The average I agree is in the 14.5 to 14.9v range in a normal state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rice Posted October 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted October 6, 2011 the SD I got it programmed as follows: Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC – This prolonged over-voltage condition can destroy batteries, especially gel-cells. Steady Green - 12.9 - 15.24 Steady Amber -12.6 - 12.8 Steady Red - 12.1 - 12.5 Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC – During this condition, if the engine is running, do not shut down until service can be provided. Restart of engine is unlikely. Reduce electrical load. Funny you should mention this. Coming home from work last night, my instruments and lights died, while the engine kept running. I made it home and checked voltage, which was from 12.1 at idle to 12.8 at 3-5K RPM. The bike didn't start this morninng, 'coz the bat. was dead, but started right up with a new battery. Same 'charging' figures, which means that there is a total loss situation. Someone who knows off the top of their head - Stator or RR? I don't have the time to wade through the wealth of related information on here, so a little handholding would be much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 the SD I got it programmed as follows: Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC – This prolonged over-voltage condition can destroy batteries, especially gel-cells. Steady Green - 12.9 - 15.24 Steady Amber -12.6 - 12.8 Steady Red - 12.1 - 12.5 Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC – During this condition, if the engine is running, do not shut down until service can be provided. Restart of engine is unlikely. Reduce electrical load. Funny you should mention this. Coming home from work last night, my instruments and lights died, while the engine kept running. I made it home and checked voltage, which was from 12.1 at idle to 12.8 at 3-5K RPM. The bike didn't start this morninng, 'coz the bat. was dead, but started right up with a new battery. Same 'charging' figures, which means that there is a total loss situation. Someone who knows off the top of their head - Stator or RR? I don't have the time to wade through the wealth of related information on here, so a little handholding would be much appreciated. Yes? It could be either or both or neither. Most likely R/R, but that is easy to determine by testing the Stator output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 6, 2011 Author Share Posted October 6, 2011 I disagree atleast with a modern bike that monitors and adjusts, you can see anywhere from 13 volt idling with heavy electrical load , to 15volt, if a high charge rate is needed. The average I agree is in the 14.5 to 14.9v range in a normal state. If you want to get technical you could have enough of a load that you are discharging. To me I look at charging voltage at operating speeds, not idle. If my operating voltage is not above 13.75ish I would be concerned....because when I am idling I know I will be in a discharge state. I have loaded mine enough with heated gear, grips, gps etc to get to this state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 I disagree atleast with a modern bike that monitors and adjusts, you can see anywhere from 13 volt idling with heavy electrical load , to 15volt, if a high charge rate is needed. The average I agree is in the 14.5 to 14.9v range in a normal state. If you want to get technical you could have enough of a load that you are discharging. To me I look at charging voltage at operating speeds, not idle. If my operating voltage is not above 13.75ish I would be concerned....because when I am idling I know I will be in a discharge state. I have loaded mine enough with heated gear, grips, gps etc to get to this state. My point is, if a light is constantly going off no matter the condition, its going to drive ya nuts, better to only come on if actually an issue. Like an oil light, very simple for those who want the idiot like, many will want the direct readout IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
signal Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 The small form factor, and clean mounting, plus the options to set an alarm or trigger a relay or what have you is what I like about this item....any bigger and I would want it to give me a live reading like my current one does. I'm looking for one that gives the actual reading. What model do you have installed on your bike? I personally use one that I built from a couple of components. It requires a 5V power source, so it has a second circuit that is hidden behind the panel. I sold this one for awhile but found it was not worth the effort between a supplier that was flaky and having to assemble/test them. The Datel meters seem to be the best 2 wire alternative, although the Stinger models look pretty good as well. I can still get the Stingers, but demand for them is low enough that I don't keep one on hand usually. My meter: Datel Meter: Stinger Voltmeter: Is there enough clearance in the location you used in your picture for the round Datel? I have been thinking of where to mount the round Datel and the location you used for your square meter looks to be one of the better locations on the 6th gen. Not sure if its so bright it would be annoying at night, but it sure looks easy to view the readings. My ideal location would be the right panel, but there just doesn't seem to be enough area for either Datel meter without chopping them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AnikMankar Posted October 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 1, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I currently have a rectangular Datel in that panel now, but the round Datel would work as well (untested but small enough from what I can see). I like the meter in the gauges tho...Nice one Anik! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted October 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2014 I haven't seen anyone mention the Kuryakin. My father-in-law gave one to me for Christmas one year. I spliced it in to the headlight so it would not stay on all the time. It read perfectly and gave me ample warning when my R/R started to go! It showed the accurate meter reading. http://cycleplicity.com/masterimages/full/Source/68/68201.jpg.ashx?maxwidth=328&maxheight=228 I just used sticky velcro to attach it to the dash. No pics b/c it was on the bike I traded a couple of weeks ago for the new 2014. I think a new meter will be coming at Christmas though. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2014 I haven't seen anyone mention the Kuryakin. My father-in-law gave one to me for Christmas one year. I spliced it in to the headlight so it would not stay on all the time. It read perfectly and gave me ample warning when my R/R started to go! It showed the accurate meter reading. http://cycleplicity.com/masterimages/full/Source/68/68201.jpg.ashx?maxwidth=328&maxheight=228 I just used sticky velcro to attach it to the dash. No pics b/c it was on the bike I traded a couple of weeks ago for the new 2014. I think a new meter will be coming at Christmas though. :) When your stator failed during the rally did you get any early warning ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Blesk Posted October 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2014 I haven't seen anyone mention the Kuryakin. My father-in-law gave one to me for Christmas one year. I spliced it in to the headlight so it would not stay on all the time. It read perfectly and gave me ample warning when my R/R started to go! It showed the accurate meter reading. http://cycleplicity.com/masterimages/full/Source/68/68201.jpg.ashx?maxwidth=328&maxheight=228 I just used sticky velcro to attach it to the dash. No pics b/c it was on the bike I traded a couple of weeks ago for the new 2014. I think a new meter will be coming at Christmas though. :) When your stator failed during the rally did you get any early warning ? Yup! I was able to pull over in a safe place before getting into some serious twisties without safe large pulloffs. It actually indicated higher than normal before I left home but silly me I though I'd just check it when I got home. Lesson learned the hard way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted October 17, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted October 17, 2014 I haven't seen anyone mention the Kuryakin. My father-in-law gave one to me for Christmas one year. I spliced it in to the headlight so it would not stay on all the time. It read perfectly and gave me ample warning when my R/R started to go! It showed the accurate meter reading. http://cycleplicity.com/masterimages/full/Source/68/68201.jpg.ashx?maxwidth=328&maxheight=228 I just used sticky velcro to attach it to the dash. No pics b/c it was on the bike I traded a couple of weeks ago for the new 2014. I think a new meter will be coming at Christmas though. :) When your stator failed during the rally did you get any early warning ? Yup! I was able to pull over in a safe place before getting into some serious twisties without safe large pulloffs. It actually indicated higher than normal before I left home but silly me I though I'd just check it when I got home. Lesson learned the hard way! Gotta member that, I would have thought the same thing .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Skids Posted November 30, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 30, 2014 My meter... I have the decode in the garage for when it flashes but I don't need to know the voltage when I'm out riding, only that it's a steady green means everything is fine, so the decode stays there. It has an ambient light sensor so dims when it goes dark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 I haven't seen anyone mention the Kuryakin. My father-in-law gave one to me for Christmas one year. I spliced it in to the headlight so it would not stay on all the time. It read perfectly and gave me ample warning when my R/R started to go! It showed the accurate meter reading. http://cycleplicity.com/masterimages/full/Source/68/68201.jpg.ashx?maxwidth=328&maxheight=228 I just used sticky velcro to attach it to the dash. No pics b/c it was on the bike I traded a couple of weeks ago for the new 2014. I think a new meter will be coming at Christmas though. :) When your stator failed during the rally did you get any early warning ? Yup! I was able to pull over in a safe place before getting into some serious twisties without safe large pulloffs. It actually indicated higher than normal before I left home but silly me I though I'd just check it when I got home. Lesson learned the hard way! Gotta member that, I would have thought the same thing .. I wouldn't expect that as gospel.. When My vfr stator failed many years ago, for a 2 week period I saw 14.2 volts and never varied, which was way below my normal 14.7to 14.9 voltage variance. I didn't do anything about it cause 14.2 was still above spec, but it simply went belly up at the end of that 2 week period(as in dead no output (instantly) . Lests look at present day stator that I already have one on hand. Im seeing 14.4 to 14.7 variance, and well over 50,000 miles on this stator, its still charging but seems to have lost its peak performance. Although I can run a 2 amp rd and electric vest and it still holds 14.6 volts is the reason Ive not changed it out yet. below 14.4 volt is my threshold(gate) where I will take action with replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.