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KanadianKen

6th Gen - Blue Connector Ground Fix - How To.

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IMG_5314_3_1.jpg

My good buddy out on the left coast of Canada, Mookiethemagnificent - phew thats a mouthful - bought a VFR on my suggestion, and recently had some battery/electrical gremlins to sort out.

Being as I'm not there to help him - I figured I could show him how to fix or pre-empt the blue connector ground connection issue AND pre-empt the problem on my own bike.

Here's a quick summary of what I did. (As luck would have it my soldering iron decided it was too hot out to work properly, so instead of soldering the connections, they are hard crimped, and then electric tape covered.)

First thing - locate the blue connector under the left side fairing, hidden inside a crappy little plastic cover.

Locte the green wires on both sides of the connector. These are the wires you need to work with. The goal is to create an additional path ACROSS the blue connector - as well as create an additional ground location for these wires.

I used a knife to carefully shave off a small (1 cm) length of green sheathing from each green wire - on each side of the blue connector.

IMG_5307.jpg

Next - I needed to find a secondary ground location to attach the soon to be created "jumper" wire. Found the 8 mm bolt that attached to the frame - just under the left of the gas tank. With that located, I needed to create the jumper wire. HEre's what I made:

IMG_5313_2_1.jpg

Wire is 14 gauge, and has a ring terminal crimped onto the end to attach to the frame near the left side of the gas tank. I stripped out a small section of sheathing to make the contact with the aft side of the blue connector (green wire) and the end piece to connect to the forward green wire.

Next - I used some crimp connectors to attach the white Jumper wire to the already exposed copper inside the green wires. Its basic stuff - but it worked great:

IMG_5314_3_1.jpg

Once I was sure that the connections were super tight - I wrapped them in electric tape, double layers. All thats left in the process is to put the fairing back on.

HOpe this helps explain how this fix can be accomplished with basic tools, and minimal expense. Might have been a $2.00 fix.

It is not a difficult task to complete - and even if your blue connector with green wires isn't "bad" why wait till it goes bad and strands you?

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Hey KKKen,

Cool fix for the blue connector. Just curious if you also ended up doing anything with the yellow 'master' ground block (mentioned in your BLUE CONNECTOR thread) as well.....

I just finished upgrading my electrical wiring today, but haven't done any voltage testing yet to see what things are running like. BIke was not having any problems and no heat indications on the 30A fuse.

My connectors all looked remarkably good, with only a slight bit of oxidation on the odd terminal. I inpected, scruffed these fresh and put dielectric grease in everything.

On my connections and splices, I used buttonhook or but joints that were soldered, painted with brush on electrical tape (I love this stuff!), then heat shrinked and / or electrical taped.

Will post my findings and some pictures in another thread when I have time.....

Just thought I would inquire about the yellow ground block, since I have done nothing with mine yet. I'm waiting until I install my auxillary fuse block (I wanted to wait on this and do some testing with just the regular harness upgrades first), then I will rip apart the nose end of the bike to do some other mods (rewire heated grips and install Stebel.)

P.S. Did your Stebel come with much for instructions? Not sure how to wire my relay yet.

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It seems to me that the only side that needs beefing up is grounding the front harness (left connector in the picture), since it seems that all (most of?) the failures have been to parts that are hooked up to the front harness, i.e. front lights, turn signal relay, and bank sensor/engine stop/fuel relay.

I have a single Posi-Tap from the front harness green wire to ground, and that's it. The back end will just use the standard ground.

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Hey KKKen,

Cool fix for the blue connector. Just curious if you also ended up doing anything with the yellow 'master' ground block (mentioned in your BLUE CONNECTOR thread) as well.....

I just finished upgrading my electrical wiring today, but haven't done any voltage testing yet to see what things are running like. BIke was not having any problems and no heat indications on the 30A fuse.

My connectors all looked remarkably good, with only a slight bit of oxidation on the odd terminal. I inpected, scruffed these fresh and put dielectric grease in everything.

On my connections and splices, I used buttonhook or but joints that were soldered, painted with brush on electrical tape (I love this stuff!), then heat shrinked and / or electrical taped.

Will post my findings and some pictures in another thread when I have time.....

Just thought I would inquire about the yellow ground block, since I have done nothing with mine yet. I'm waiting until I install my auxillary fuse block (I wanted to wait on this and do some testing with just the regular harness upgrades first), then I will rip apart the nose end of the bike to do some other mods (rewire heated grips and install Stebel.)

P.S. Did your Stebel come with much for instructions? Not sure how to wire my relay yet.

QDawg, i haven't stripped the electrical tape off my bikes wiring harness to get at that yellow junction block. So far my bikes been ok - and the blue connector mod - and the RR Monitor Wire "fix" are what I"ve done to premptively avoid the hassles others have sufferred.

As for wiring your relay - I'll see what I can find for you. It isn't that difficult. Back in a bit. :thumbsup:

EDIT _ go here - it'll layout where you need to connect things!!

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

relaywire.jpg

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Thanks for the wiring diagram.

My bike is running pretty well with all the mods, but I discovered my left turn signal is blinking fast.

Hope it is just a burnt bulb.

Didn't have time to check today when I got back from my ride: there was a storm rolling in and I wanted to get the bike and cages into the garage in case it hailed. No room to get at the bike now until it passes.

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Guest casualfornow

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

This article saved me hundreds of dollars of diagnostics at the shop.

I had no lights, blickers were affecting the fuel pump, etc....

MB

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Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

This article saved me hundreds of dollars of diagnostics at the shop.

I had no lights, blickers were affecting the fuel pump, etc....

MB

Cool - I guess its running better now? smile.gif :thumbsup:

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Just so I'm 100% positive on this fix. It's the blue connector but the green colored wire is the ground circuit Honda uses - correct?

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Just so I'm 100% positive on this fix. It's the blue connector but the green colored wire is the ground circuit Honda uses - correct?

Yes, that's why we have pictures too! :unsure:

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Cut me some slack Bailey, I'm old and color blind.

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Cut me some slack Bailey, I'm old and color blind.

Well be careful then because there's a gray multi pin connector right next to the blue one. +1.gif

I'm old too! :thumbsup:

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I appreciate the help, this thing is just frustrating. I will see about it this weekend.

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Guy's is this the fix for the Honda recal? I talked to the dealer and they told me they were going to install a new front wire harness? I'd rather just do this fix and not have the hassle of bringing the bike back. Is there anything else with the front harness?

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Well, so far I haven't heard of any front wiring harness problems (buzzing, no headlights, etc) from those of us who had the recall performed. Discoloration of the 30 amp fuse wiring is another story... :biggrin:

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Guy's is this the fix for the Honda recall? I talked to the dealer and they told me they were going to install a new front wire harness? I'd rather just do this fix and not have the hassle of bringing the bike back. Is there anything else with the front harness?

I'm not 100% sure if the blue connector ground wire mod completely eliminates the need for the front wiring harness replacement, but with the new recall front harness, the ground wiring for the headlights is now routed to the right side of the bike and is tapped into the RR wiring instead of going through the blue connector.

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No harm getting the Recall harness put in. I should have mine done sometime....

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I finished installing the VFRness and was going to do the Blue Connector ground fix. When I checked the blue connector, there is the green wire on one side and not the other. Am I looking at the right blue connector?

Steve

gallery_532_4399_7624.jpg

gallery_532_4399_12381.jpg

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Correct.

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What, color blind? LOL. Just follow the green wire. Lower right- most wire. (from your pic). That's the one you want.

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Correct.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

The recall schematic shows one of the grounds no longer routed into the blue connector, that spot is empty.

zrecallblue.jpg

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What, color blind? LOL. Just follow the green wire. Lower right- most wire. (from your pic). That's the one you want.

Please forgive, LOWER LEFT- most.

Correct.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

The recall schematic shows one of the grounds no longer routed into the blue connector, that spot is empty.

Perhaps, (Not like the schematics, have ever been wrong). +1.gif

BUT,...I see a green wire in the pic.

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I emailed Tightwad and it seems the recall addressed this issue. So I guess that is why only one green wire in and none on the other side. The recall must have installed the tan connector below it and solved the issue...I hope.

Thanks,

Steve

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Yea, the green wire on the front side of the blue connector is missing if you've had the recall performed. I think I mentioned that in my post above... +1.gif

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This post was great back in July 07, but since then hasn't the factory totally made up for it with the safety recall and free fix or replacement? If your bike hasn't been fixed by now by the dealer, don't waste your time doing it on your own. Get the to nearest dealer and have it fixed for free.

Edit: I should add that if your not aware of any repair relevant to the recall have been made, you can look for the punch mark near the VIN on the right side of the frame. If the dealer has done the fix, they are required to make a punch mark 10mm below and 10mm left of the letter J.

Edited by VFRwhisp
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