Vtec Fork Mods To Compliment A New Ohlins

[Guest heavymental]

Hi, whats do you guys recommend for fork upgrades to go along with my new ohlins rear shock? Gold Valves and springs? BTW i'm 220lbs. and have about a $400 budget. thanks

[SEBSPEED]

I'll be watching this thread. I'm in the same boat, and weigh about 20lbs less than you.

[shayne]

I have just had the forks done on my Gen 6. Yet to be fitted back in the bike.

The problem with the VFR is that the spring rate is too low and the valving too restricted for the average rider. Standard spring rate is maybe ok for someone about 165 pounds or so but that is it. The standard valving simply cannot flow enough oil, and goes into a "hydraulic lock" (my desrciption not a professional one) when you it a bump. The Gold Valves flow a lot more oil, and allow set-up via the shim stack. The stiffer springs get the fork up in the working range of the spring, rather than it being compressed before you hit a bump. If you get springs to suit your weight, and Gold Valves you should be right.

This fork is very similar to the fork on my VTR 1000, which responds very well to the same mods, so when I rang my Racetech suspension tuner, the story was familiar, as they have the same inherent problems. So the opinion above is his, not mine.

I am in a similar position to you, as I have a WP shock for the rear of my bike.

Everyone, myself included, loves a good engine mod, but in my opinion for value for money you can't beat a suspension upgrade to a bike that is pretty basic in standard trim.

[The Phantom]

I have just had the forks done on my Gen 6. Yet to be fitted back in the bike.

The problem with the VFR is that the spring rate is too low and the valving too restricted for the average rider. Standard spring rate is maybe ok for someone about 165 pounds or so but that is it. The standard valving simply cannot flow enough oil, and goes into a "hydraulic lock" (my desrciption not a professional one) when you it a bump. The Gold Valves flow a lot more oil, and allow set-up via the shim stack. The stiffer springs get the fork up in the working range of the spring, rather than it being compressed before you hit a bump. If you get springs to suit your weight, and Gold Valves you should be right.

This fork is very similar to the fork on my VTR 1000, which responds very well to the same mods, so when I rang my Racetech suspension tuner, the story was familiar, as they have the same inherent problems. So the opinion above is his, not mine.

I am in a similar position to you, as I have a WP shock for the rear of my bike.

Everyone, myself included, loves a good engine mod, but in my opinion for value for money you can't beat a suspension upgrade to a bike that is pretty basic in standard trim.

That was a great post. I think it might be the most concise and thorough explanation on VFR fork theory that I've ever had the pleasure of reading :wub:

One of the great advantages of aftermarket shocks (nee dampers) is their high flow rate allowing fast response, this achieved largely by using a piston with milled ports - more surface area drilled away to allow oil flow - rather than one with drilled ports, as fitted to the Showa shock fitted from new by Honda.

So that efficiency increase will also be possible in applying the same ideas to the forks.

Another one here (Ohlins shock, but have gone USD replacement for the front).

[shayne]

Thanks for the compliment. As you say, the valving is a big factor. To look at the standard components compared to the Gold Valve side by side, you can really see the larger capacity for oil flow.

When I first rode my bike it felt so stiff I thought I was going to have fillings falling out of my teeth. But soft springs, and restricted valving will give the impression of it being stiff when it isn't.

[inpurgatory1]

i just did my forks on an 02 granted the guy who did it set it custom (filled and redrilled dampening holes ) i used race tech items ( i wiegh 250lbs ) to match my ohlins rear shock now he bike feels 100lbs lighter in turns. it takes my inputs smoother and faster. it is now the bike i want it to be handling wise :thumbsup:

[Baileyrock]

I sent my forks off to Phil at Aftershocks where he re-valved/re-sprung and rebuilt them for $300-350. I'm pretty happy with them running with my Ohlins rear w/19kg spring, fronts .90 or .95 I weigh 200 lbs. :thumbsup:

if you don't mind de-linking the brakes, F4i forks make a good, cheap swap and you can use your VFR wheel/rotors/axle. :salesman:

[inpurgatory1]

de link brakes are next!

[zRoYz]

I'm really starting to feel the gold valves etc mods to forks are way over rated for road use as there race track technology. They sell allot of stuff because people tend to buy stuff due to advisements, but if you really know what feed back YOU not someone else says you should want then 90% of first off valve so called upgrades fail & need rework.

You can play with valving & compression stacks all you want on VFR forks but in the end without on the fly adjustment like that nice new 3 clicker rear shock you just installed you have to make compromises because you will always need different flow rates for the load you have on a road bike which constantly changes unlike a race bike (unless you eat allot of donuts).

Standard VFR forks only have preload adjustment on the fly thats it so how do you adjust rebound or compression when you wind it up because you have a pillion, you can't. This doesn't mean the VFR forks are bad because there not in fact the forks on the VTEC model without touching valving & just installing spring to suit your weight are outstanding but you need to replace oil every 5000kms to keep them working there best (people just don't change there fork oil enough). The later model forks with smaller tube dia aren't as good but still standard valving isn't to bad & I would again try springs for my weight & new oil before I striped them to modify valving. Even with big port valving or the "it flows better gold valves because there gold" you have to slow down oil flow somewhere in system to gain rebound & compression you need so flow is all important correct, nice & smooth no air rating the oil (foaming/air bubbles) which to me points directly to quality of fork oil in system is the number one thing for good fork performance. People change it what every 15000kms if there service guy tells them & use the off the shelf generic stuff & yet people wounder why there forks suck.

I'm no suspension wizz because I let the experts do that, but I do know what I like in way of feed back from a road going motor bike & the only reason I bought a VFR in the first place was because straight out of the box it handles very well without really doing anything & that reason is Honda have made allot of these & know a thing or 2 about setting there show case sports tourer up for all road going conditions. Yes upgrading can make things better because if they installed all the high tech suspension stuff to every bike we wouldn't buy them because the upfront price is to high for the avg joe or we would all have MV'S.

The most common upgrade is a rear shock & most will buy the 3 clicker & it will be built to your weight so should be close to perfect but what is forgotten is the way you had your bike setup with old shock & this includes rack angle of forks & rear ride height as most jack the rear or lower the front for better turn in & can get away with allot due to VFR'S neutral standard geometry. The new rear shock will push the front if you don't set bike up back to standard & start again & before you do this also change out fork oil & swap out springs that suit your weight better.

I can say all above because I have used a RC51 front end on my VTEC which had all the valving etc done to my liking & the rear has a Wibers 3 clicker & I ride my bike only for fun & if I get more than 4000kms out of a rear Pilot Power I'm lucky if you know what I mean. I now have standard VTEC front back on bike with no mods except new fork oil (race grade lower than standard weight, smaller air gap) & I don't have to slow down with only just a little more head shake but nothing to make you wet your pants. Yes the RC51 front is better there is no question but the standard front isn't far behind for road use in all conditions & it's free on bike.

Simple things work in most cases & unless you try you will never know.

[ShipFixer]

Hi, whats do you guys recommend for fork upgrades to go along with my new ohlins rear shock? Gold Valves and springs? BTW i'm 220lbs. and have about a $400 budget. thanks

Springs minimum, valving is nice too. I recommend Hyperpro's.

At your weight, a correctly sprung rear shock will make the front end feel noticeably undersprung and mushy in comparison.

I'm really starting to feel the gold valves etc mods to forks are way over rated for road use as there race track technology.

Negative...it works significantly well on the road. Stock valving has stiff high speed compression and soft low speed compression, which is the opposite of what you want. Shifting the damping effort to the shim stack vice orifice damping makes a noticeable difference going over just about any kind of bump and through any kind of corner.

It's what keeps me from selling my VFR as I get ready to move across country...I know that if I ever got another motorcycle I'd have to put the same amount of effort into the suspension, including valves.

[zRoYz]

Negative...it works significantly well on the road. Stock valving has stiff high speed compression and soft low speed compression, which is the opposite of what you want. Shifting the damping effort to the shim stack vice orifice damping makes a noticeable difference going over just about any kind of bump and through any kind of corner.

It's what keeps me from selling my VFR as I get ready to move across country...I know that if I ever got another motorcycle I'd have to put the same amount of effort into the suspension, including valves.

It depends who you talk to, I have talked to many a suspension tech & each one will have a different view, or stick to the party line "yep gold valves etc"

[tinyminds]

Ohlins makes a cartridge / rod setup that will replace the entire internals along with there revalve kit and springs. I've been on and off the phone several times talking to a couple of the Ohlins techs about it. Its not something they have listed on there site, but a setup that is designed to fit the internal fork size thats on the VFR so something that is doable, which is what is going to be in my front forks hopefully in the next couple months if I could ever get my other projects finished first. For normal riding I have to agree with 'zRoyz' that its not necessary, but how many other things do we do thats not necessary? For those that ride more aggressively on the street, I must say the VFR forks on way under dampened, which could potentially be dangerous in ruff road surfaces, but... most would say you should keep that type of riding to the track.... so... I'll not go any farther on that. Mod away. Of course I'll post up w/ a ' what I did / how to ' once I get mine done. Good luck.

[thx1139]

Ohlins makes a cartridge / rod setup that will replace the entire internals along with there revalve kit and springs. I've been on and off the phone several times talking to a couple of the Ohlins techs about it. Its not something they have listed on there site, but a setup that is designed to fit the internal fork size...

For those who would rather not buy an entire replacement set of cartridges; Ohlins also has a replacement valve kit for OEM forks. Like Racetech's GV upgrades Ohlins' U.E.S. kit includes Ohlins comp. and rebound valves and shims to fit factory 20mm cartridges.

For more info on anything Ohlins Dan Kyle is probably a good place to call.

[shayne]

For normal riding the standard suspension is poor, in regards to absorbing sharp hits for one. Not good on rough roads. Fix it, and you will wonder why you didn't do it sooner.