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Wolf Exhaust, 5th Gen

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Neil can make his own mufflers - I'll just tell him to make a copy of the Micron. Or maybe a larger oval with dual tips...Needs to find a good source for carbon fiber though if you want it in Carbon.

I would prefer carbon to keep the heat down, my carbon Micron I can grab a hold of after a ride.............really like that feature. SAFE-T not to vier off topic here but I was looking in your gallery and I like your windscreen, what make and model is that ?

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I've been :lurk: ing here since this thread began, but it's been a busy holiday season... First off, great work among the fabricators here. It would be amazing if we collectively came up with the means to assemble a reasonably priced kit. I for one like dual outlets, regardless of whether that means two mufflers or one. It just fills the space nicely. License plate placement is another issue, especially if you don't like the idea of it hanging way down below your beautiful muffler mods. That's the reason I went with mine above the muffler, even though it unfortunately obstructs the rear view of the muffler a bit.

The reason I eventually abandoned my underseat setup for the tok tokkie underbody design was that I ride two-up all the time and we were hitting the pipes and muffler with the rear tire on big bumps, sometimes hard enough to send an impact up through the seat. Another problem I had was melting bits on the undertray. I tried to cheap out and modify the stock plastic undertray, which later melted in several spots (despite heat-resistant sheeting between the undertray and exhaust). Last but not least, the muffler guy I used did a hurry-up job on the mid-pipe-to-muffler section with mild steel, and after seeing veefer800canuck's stainless and Wolf mid-pipes, I'm pretty underwhelmed with mine.

So I built one like tok tokkie's last spring. After living with the underbody system for a season, I found it had several significant drawbacks (not that I think tok tokkie is anything but brilliant for designing it!!), so now I'm back at the drawing board... again... <_<

At this point, I'd recommend the following for any complete underseat system: An undertray made of thin ceramic-coated aluminum (I think Rob would agree that even thinner sheet than he used would be fine) with as much room as possible underneath for the bend connecting the mid-pipe and Y-pipes (it needs to be as *up-and-forward* as possible to avoid tire contact later. Ovalled pipes (much as on the 6th gens) would be the best solution yet. Carbon-skinned cans would be best for limiting heat transfer. The grommeted stays for the tail plastic (at the back by the lights) need to be replicated to avoid cracking plastics (as happens with Wolf systems unless modified). Re-positioning of the CPU is required. Shimming the shock (especially if you ride two-up) will likely be necessary, no matter how compact/ideally routed your system is, to avoid tire-to-muffler/pipe contact over big bumps. License-plate location is still an issue, maybe one best left up to the individual (I recommend Lite 'N Bolts for license-plate lighting).

First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

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I understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

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I understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

Yes, but a nice underseat setup is even better than a high-mount, especially if you want luggage options. wink.gif

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I understand that one off stuff and custom stuff is $$$ but for $1000 my Micron Carbon high mount is looking better and better.

Thanks for raining on my parade. LOL

F&F

Yes, but a nice underseat setup is even better than a high-mount, especially if you want luggage options. wink.gif

I have a full set of RKA soft bags that came with the bike, previous owner said worked great it the carbon Micron.

P1010733.JPG

P1010731.JPG

F&F

Edited by Flash and Flare

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If ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

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If ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

SAFE-T I totally agree, even though I was hoping for alot less. I have built alot of one off stuff for snowmobiles and for my MX-Banshee

Just like you said "playing in the wrong sandbox"

F&F

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At this point, I'd recommend the following for any complete underseat system: An undertray made of thin ceramic-coated aluminum (I think Rob would agree that even thinner sheet than he used would be fine) with as much room as possible underneath for the bend connecting the mid-pipe and Y-pipes (it needs to be as *up-and-forward* as possible to avoid tire contact later. Ovalled pipes (much as on the 6th gens) would be the best solution yet. Carbon-skinned cans would be best for limiting heat transfer. The grommeted stays for the tail plastic (at the back by the lights) need to be replicated to avoid cracking plastics (as happens with Wolf systems unless modified). Re-positioning of the CPU is required. Shimming the shock (especially if you ride two-up) will likely be necessary, no matter how compact/ideally routed your system is, to avoid tire-to-muffler/pipe contact over big bumps. License-plate location is still an issue, maybe one best left up to the individual (I recommend Lite 'N Bolts for license-plate lighting).

Good summary Magellan, I'd just add that for 3rd and 4th Gen owners you can gain up to 30mm of additional clearance between tyre and underseat canisters if you mod the rear brake caliper locating plate to allow the eccentric to be flipped - it changes the geometry of the bike, but you'd do it mainly for two-up work so handling variations at 9/10ths would not be a factor. Unless your pillion is very brave :unsure:

First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Yep it would be fantastic to see an off the shelf set-up made available. Also an off the shelf USD fork kit. Oh, and off the shelf NR replica bodywork.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

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I'd just add that for 3rd and 4th Gen owners you can gain up to 30mm of additional clearance between tyre and underseat canisters if you mod the rear brake caliper locating plate to allow the eccentric to be flipped.

Only the fourth, Muzzah - the third gen can have the eccentric flipped without anything else needing to be done.

Yep it would be fantastic to see an off the shelf set-up made available. Also an off the shelf USD fork kit. Oh, and off the shelf NR replica bodywork.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

I reckon it would be pretty easy to make a CF undertray, which would also mean that problems of heat transferance would be minimised.

Did you see the link I posted yesterday to that RC51 underseat zorst? I'd like to see summat like that on a VFR. I'd volunteer to be first, but first I'd have to divorce/kill my wife....

Here we go:

http://www.honda-rc51.de/RC_reworked_2006_17-Web.jpg

Edited by enzed_viffer

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First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Also an off the shelf USD fork kit.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

Actually, one of vfrD's members did put together a number of USD kits...although I can't remember exactly who.

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First one to assemble a plug-and-play kit that addresses all of the above for under $1000 wins!!!! :D

Also an off the shelf USD fork kit.

(yawn) hey looks like it's time to wake up! nice dream...

Actually, one of vfrD's members did put together a number of USD kits...although I can't remember exactly who.

JoeAshville?

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Ya where is Joe? :huh:

I heard he's goin down to shoot his old lady,

you know he caught her messin' 'round with another man. wink.gif

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What is the diameter of the exhaust piping that goes from the header section to the mufflers? Is it all the same on all generations of bikes? Just wondering if it a standard 2" diameter exhaust tubing?

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Guest Rolf

what's the clearance with the original wolf undertray/setup i.e. are there any rear wheel/exhaust issues ?

perhaps I can lay my hands on a original undertray, for what it's worth

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what's the clearance with the original wolf undertray/setup i.e. are there any rear wheel/exhaust issues ?

perhaps I can lay my hands on a original undertray, for what it's worth

I scored one from a bikepics member. I didnt want to hack up the original undertray, so I bought another so the bike could go back the way it was. I "did" use my existing T/B muffler as a gineau pig. You'll have to shorten the muffler by aleast 3.5inches......and fabricate some kind of hanging bracket for the muffler. The most important thing is to cut the undertray so the muffler will fit. A muffler shop bent the pipe for me. but I left the muffler installed on the bike so the guy could mate them up. The only issue that I had was plate placement. I had it too far under the bike and the rear wheel bent the shit out of it LOL.... I moved it out towards the tip of the muffler and I'm all set. Oh yeah, you'll have to rig up some kinda plate light. I dont know what kinda muffler you have but I had to get a ducati end cap that fit the C-5 can so the muffler exited straight out instead of off to one side.......it looked kinda stupid. Look in bikepics.com. They is a guy in there(Brad) who did this. I contacted him and followed the mod to the "T" One other thing, fab up some kinda heat shield for the muffler and pipe. I made the mistake of winging it and burned the under side of my NEW sargent seat!! I was lucky it didnt burn through. I screwed a heat shield to the seat and wrapped the exhaust pipe. Right now it's good. I'm still not done though......I still have to send out the mid pipe to have it smoothed and chromed. but it looked good polished. I will see if I can send a pic..... Not good at that. I do have one up on vfrworld.com. It's under harricanfloyd posts...... I know this was a little long, but hope it helps!!

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If ya wanna play, ya gotta pay.

FYI anyone that can get a professional bolt-up underseat exhaust made one at a time is going to be looking at spending at least $1000. Everyone I've seen on the board has done them on their own to various degrees. I know veefer800canuck spent around $900 (US) for the mufflers and connector pipe, not including the time and money spent on the undertray. Add the cost of postage to get it to you and you can see where this is leading.

My guess is this is the primary reason why Wolf (and Erion and Two Brothers) no longer make systems for the VFR.

Bottom line is that if $1000-$1500 is too much, you're playing in the wrong sandbox.

I thought that a large portion of why these companies stopped building exhausts for the 5th and 6th gen VFR's was related to the Catalytic converter.

They don't want to make a cat and go through the grief of getting it certified, and a slip on only adds a few % points more power.

I would gladly pay 1500 for a full Ti system that could retain the cat somehow.

I wonder if any one of our fellow vifferati could split the casing on a vfr catalyst and transplant the core to a new casing. Technically that should be legal since the actual Catalyst is not altered only the case it resides in.

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