Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 OK, so I got my replacement parts from Cycle Cat today. They were the same ones I currently have. So, I called them up and they admitted fault and are shipping out the right ones this afternoon with return shipping to send back the wrong ones. I am still in a holding pattern. i hate waiting for parts. i have a front fender sitting in Des Moines waiting to clear customs, and clip-ons in between here and there. I just can't wait until they all get to my house. The only thing keeping me sane is the now 10 inches of snow in the yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 Depending on the outcome of your clip-ons from cycle cat, I might go with these..... http://www.oppracing.com/products.php?acti...uct&id=2301 http://www.oppracing.com/products.php?acti...uct&id=3047 Granted it'll cost me about $100.00 more than the cycle cats, but it looks like a viable option. How do I get the rubber grips off of the handle bars? I have everything else removed, but my Clymers manual doesn't say anything about getting the grips off. I will post up some pics for you to see what I see soon. I really don't think there will be room for the OPPRacing ones. You definitely have to see my pics before you decide. If I get my Cycle Cat stuff by Friday, I will be working in the garage this weekend and post up the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thx1139 Posted February 7, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 7, 2007 How do I get the rubber grips off of the handle bars? I have everything else removed, but my Clymers manual doesn't say anything about getting the grips off. WD-40. Stick the straw between the grip and the bar, squirt. The solvent will help loosen the adhesive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth Bling Posted February 7, 2007 Share Posted February 7, 2007 (edited) How do I get the rubber grips off of the handle bars? I have everything else removed, but my Clymers manual doesn't say anything about getting the grips off. WD-40. Stick the straw between the grip and the bar, squirt. The solvent will help loosen the adhesive. I perfer using isopropyl alcohal (rubbing alcohal). It evaporates clean and doesn't leave any residue (unlike WD-40 or soapy water). Of course, if there's grip glue under there do what thx1139 recommends and use WD-40. :thumbsup: And when it comes time to put your grips onto the bars, lube up the grip with isopropyl alcohal first. It'll slide right on very easily. Then with a can-of-air (like for your computer), stick the straw under the grip and shoot air in there. This will quickly evaporate the alcohal within a few seconds and your grips will be securely installed! :beer: Edited February 7, 2007 by MFP-2241 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 OK, so I got my replacement parts from Cycle Cat today. They were the same ones I currently have. So, I called them up and they admitted fault and are shipping out the right ones this afternoon with return shipping to send back the wrong ones. I am still in a holding pattern. i hate waiting for parts. i have a front fender sitting in Des Moines waiting to clear customs, and clip-ons in between here and there. I just can't wait until they all get to my house. The only thing keeping me sane is the now 10 inches of snow in the yard. Most of my parts are on their way. The only thing that I haven't ordered are the clip-ons. I know what you mean about waiting for parts. I had to have some of my stuff shipped to my parents house, so they can forward it to me. Some companies don't ship overseas. No big deal, just adds to the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 How do I get the rubber grips off of the handle bars? I have everything else removed, but my Clymers manual doesn't say anything about getting the grips off. WD-40. Stick the straw between the grip and the bar, squirt. The solvent will help loosen the adhesive. I perfer using isopropyl alcohal (rubbing alcohal). It evaporates clean and doesn't leave any residue (unlike WD-40 or soapy water). Of course, if there's grip glue under there do what thx1139 recommends and use WD-40. :thumbsup: And when it comes time to put your grips onto the bars, lube up the grip with isopropyl alcohal first. It'll slide right on very easily. Then with a can-of-air (like for your computer), stick the straw under the grip and shoot air in there. This will quickly evaporate the alcohal within a few seconds and your grips will be securely installed! :goofy: Thanks for the tips!!! I'll try that this weekend. That's pretty much the last thing that I have to remove, then I'm just waiting for all my parts to come in...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Ok thanks to you guys, I got the rubber grips off. Now how do I remove the white plastic throttle tube? That is the last thing that I need to remove. Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Ok thanks to you guys, I got the rubber grips off. Now how do I remove the white plastic throttle tube? That is the last thing that I need to remove. Thanks!!! You need to remove both the screws that hold the switchbox together. Actually, after you split the switch box open, everything will slide off the end of you clip-on. You do not have to take the throttle tube out of the switch box. Just slide everything off the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 I already did that, but the plastic white tube that the rubber grip is on seems stuck. I split the case like you said, but I can't get the darn thing off!!! It just doesn't want to come off of the clip-on. What kind of adhesive do you use when you re-install the rubber grips? I'll take another look at my throttle assembly tomooorw, thanks for the assistance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thx1139 Posted February 11, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted February 11, 2007 (edited) I already did that, but the plastic white tube that the rubber grip is on seems stuck. I split the case like you said, but I can't get the darn thing off!!! It just doesn't want to come off of the clip-on. What kind of adhesive do you use when you re-install the rubber grips? I'll take another look at my throttle assembly tomooorw, thanks for the assistance! You have to disengage the throttle cables from the tube. The switch housing needs to be opened quite a bit beyond "cracked". Personally I've found the HondaBond grip glue to work better than most other stuff. Heard it is made by Three-Bond and their Grip Lock is the same adhesive. Edited February 11, 2007 by thx1139 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 11, 2007 Share Posted February 11, 2007 Ok, I'll give that a shot, thanks!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 (edited) Finally, after 1 month of waiting. I got my front fender in the mail today. It is only 10 ozs. Can you believe it. It makes up for the weight gain of the custom front axle. I looks better in person. Well worth the wait. The boys at www.dynomite.co.uk know what they are doing and have great cutomer service. I can't wait to get it on the bike this weekend. Edited February 14, 2007 by DonnyBallGame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Sorry if the image is too big for you guys. I played around and could not make it work like the pictures in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobie1dog Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 How much did the stock fender weigh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 Sorry if the image is too big for you guys. I played around and could not make it work like the pictures in the past. I copied the picture URL and uploaded it to imageshack.us and downsized it for you. Ther is an option during the upload process to shrink the image to various sizes. Try it, it's free and you don't have to sign up http://www.imageshack.us PS: that Carbon fender is far too light. Your bike will be wheelieng all the time and that's a very bad thing. You should box it up and send it to me right away! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 How much did the stock fender weigh? I don't really know. I am pretty sure it is lighter, but I am guessing mostly. I did not measure it before I shipped it out. I was referencing all the comments I got when I made the solid front axle instead of the hollow R1 axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 14, 2007 Share Posted February 14, 2007 had to chime in here... you really didnt expect to see how to remove your grips in the manual did you? lastly one reason you may be having trouble removing your throttle housing from the bar is that the housing has a locating pin to prevent it from spinning on the bar. you will need to seperate the switch unit further to give room for the pin to clear the bar.your not in aircraft maintenance are you? :unsure: Yeah, the A.F. pays me good $$$ to fix their aircraft. The thing is, I didn't have my manual with me when I posted that (should have waited until I checked my references first). I was at work, trying to recall my difficulties. I wasn't aware of the pin, and I didn't see it in the manual either, so thanks for that tip!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 (edited) Donny, that's a pretty sweet looking CF Fender you got there. Any updates on your progress? I ordered the same Cycle Cat clip-ons as you. I was going to get the DBR13's, but they are out of stock, and Chris from Cycle Cat recommended the ones you got, plus they were in stock. Did you replace your steering stem bearings? I have new ones on the way, and was wondering if you did replace them how you seated them. The Manual says to use a bearing seater, I'm gonna see if I can find a length of pipe the right diameter, and length and see if that'll work for the bottom bearing. Here are pics of my bike in it's current state...... http://vfrworld.com/photos/showgallery.php...500/ppuser/1185 BTW where is Nashua IA? My wife is from Sioux City. Edited February 16, 2007 by douglasthecook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 16, 2007 Share Posted February 16, 2007 Donny, that's a pretty sweet looking CF Fender you got there. Any updates on your progress? I ordered the same Cycle Cat clip-ons as you. I was going to get the DBR13's, but they are out of stock, and Chris from Cycle Cat recommended the ones you got, plus they were in stock. Did you replace your steering stem bearings? I have new ones on the way, and was wondering if you did replace them how you seated them. The Manual says to use a bearing seater, I'm gonna see if I can find a length of pipe the right diameter, and length and see if that'll work for the bottom bearing. Here are pics of my bike in it's current state......http://vfrworld.com/photos/showgallery.php...500/ppuser/1185 BTW where is Nashua IA? My wife is from Sioux City. I did replace my steering stem bearings. I chose to go with tapered bearigs from www.allballsracing.com . Install went very smooth. I used a socket as a bearing driver and smacked the socket with a hammer. Everything seated into the frame fine. I did need to make a long tube for pressing the bottom bearing on to the steering stem. After that was made, I used a press to get things seated there. When I reordered my billet chunks from Cyclecat, they made a mistake and sent me what I already had. So they told me the correct ones, includung return shipping, were on the way. 4 days go by and I decide to check in withthem to see where they are. The same gal tells me that I need to send the wrong ones back before they can ship the correct ones to me. Needless to say, i was a little frustrated that day. Hopefully I can get them today and work on the bike this weekend. Your bike looks a lot like mine did a few weeks ago. They look pretty crappy when they are all tore down and parts laying here and there. I have got mine back together now, with exception of the clip-ons and front fender. I am hoping to get it all done this weekend. I am in North East Iowa. 1 hour east of I-35. One the new "Avenue of the Saints", 45min north of Waterloo. We have curvy roads 1 hour east of me near the Mississippi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Ok, much thanks to 767Fixer I was able to remove the throttle assembly from the clip-on. My next question is what have you guys been usingto torque the steering stem retention nuts ( the castlated ones with the keeper under the top triple tree)? It looks like a special tool/socket is needed, and I'm not too sure if the wife will let me spend any more $$$, as I just spent a little over $2k on parts for my VFR. Any advice/guidance will be greatly appreciated. And many thanks goes out already!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 There's a topic somewhere that shows a few option (taking an anglegrinder to a big socket is one). Have a look in the Maintenance section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Found it!!!!! This site is alot bigger, and more informative that I previously thought!!!!! http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29080 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Well, I think I have finally won the battle. I only have the Bar-end Mirrors to mount and apply some zip ties and powder coat an unexpected spacer. Pics to follow as soon as it is day light and I get a break from my real job. After a month of trying, I got all my needed parts from Cycle Cat today. What a pain that was. Enough said about that. I fit the Suzuki 'Busa risers under the top triple clamp. Above was too high. If the risers would have been 25mm shorter, it might have worked on top better, but since they are what they are, under they went. Now for the unexpected spacer. I needed to raise the top clamp to get the clip-ons higher on the fork tubes for some much needed clearance between them and the dash. The cinch bolt on the clip-ons likes to hit the dash if they are not turned just right. The spacer is just a big washer I had laying around. I will get you specs when I remove it for powder coat. It is about 4 mm thick and goes on the steering stem between the top clamp and the lock nut below it. The Cycle Cat risers work OK. They have plenty of adjustment which really helps with this application. Is there something better? Possibly. I am going to give these a try for now, but I may investigate an LSL Suberbike style setup next winter. We will have to see how things play out. I will get some pictures of the tight quarters as soon as I can. Thanks for your patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DonnyBallGame Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 So, I am trying to get things all buttoned up today and discover that there is an issue with the choke cable. It is too short now. I looked into rerouting it, but no luck. Just wanted to ask anyone if they know of a cable that is 1 to 2 inches longer from another CBR-VFR that may work. Any ideas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglasthecook Posted March 4, 2007 Share Posted March 4, 2007 This is definately not good news. Have you tried to contact Cycle Cat and see who they go through? I know that there are companies out there that do this. Another route would be to measure the length of the choke cable and see what else is out there. Speedzilla is a good resource that I use occasionally. I'll do some research as well, and hopefully one of us will come up with a solution. I suppose another option would be to call some dealers in your area and see if they know anything. There aren't too many english speakingdealers where i'm at currently, unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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