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axplayer

Make It Growl For $20

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This is for you 6th gen. VFR owners. I'm one of those folks who likes the look of the stock pipes, so I drilled them out. There have been lots of interesting suggestions about how to do it here, but only loose reference to the exact tools. If you have a drill (and I recommend an electric one), get these two items. Both were bought for just under $20 at Home Depot. Two of the pipes are straight shots, so insert the bit as far as it goes and drill away. The other two pipes have a bend, so you will have to drill at an angle. The beauty of the bit is that, for the angled drill holes, it chews away at the pipe without having to worry about starting a pilot hole, scratching the visible outlet portion of the pipe, etc. The bit is by eazypower and is called an Isomax countersink, 5/8". The extension is an Irwin Speedbor, 12" long. Both are virtually indestructible. Happy drilling!

gallery_8058_1805_798769.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

100_3000.JPG

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Sorry, beyond my technical abilities... I could use the digital camera I suppose, but its audio is lousy--to put it mildly.

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This is for you 6th gen. VFR owners.  I'm one of those folks who likes the look of the stock pipes, so I drilled them out.  There have been lots of interesting suggestions about how to do it here, but only loose reference to the exact tools.  If you have a drill (and I recommend an electric one), get these two items.  Both were bought for just under $20 at Home Depot.  Two of the pipes are straight shots, so insert the bit as far as it goes and drill away.  The other two pipes have a bend, so you will have to drill at an angle.  The beauty of the bit is that, for the angled drill holes, it chews away at the pipe without having to worry about starting a pilot hole, scratching the visible outlet portion of the pipe, etc.  The bit is by eazypower and is called an Isomax countersink, 5/8".  The extension is an Irwin Speedbor, 12" long.  Both are virtually indestructible.  Happy drilling! 

gallery_8058_1805_798769.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

100_3000.JPG

This might sound dumb, but... did you do this while the exhaust was still mounted? All the gutting threads I have read referrence taking off the back plate tips and rewelding them back on.

If they were still mounted, how did you get the shavings out? Pics of the process?

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I left the pipes on and let the shavings "go where they go." The bit also collects some shavings because I think it is somewhat magnetized. Nothing's going to get back into places where it could do damage. I few aggressive revs on the road clean it out, I'm sure. This is quick and easy. If you have an electric drill, takes about 5 minutes. I had to use my battery-powered Makita. I went through about 8 battery chargings. Hope this helps.

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I left the pipes on and let the shavings "go where they go."  The bit also collects some shavings because I think it is somewhat magnetized.  Nothing's going to get back into places where it could do damage.  I few aggressive revs on the road clean it out, I'm sure.  This is quick and easy.  If you have an electric drill, takes about 5 minutes.  I had to use my battery-powered Makita.  I went through about 8 battery chargings.  Hope this helps.

I'd just be worried about the initial startup vacuum sucking something in, probably just paranoid =P maybe i'll try it :goofy:

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I'd just be worried about the initial startup vacuum sucking something in, probably just paranoid =P maybe i'll try it  :goofy:

Maybe the engine could be running?

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I doubt any of that stuff will make it past the catalytic converter...

Make sure to :goofy: to get the shavings out :blink:

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I'd just be worried about the initial startup vacuum sucking something in, probably just paranoid =P maybe i'll try it  :goofy:

There's no way that the vacuum would pull it all the way to the cylinders. Even if it could pull it through a clean open pipe that far, the stuff couldn't get past the catalytic converter.

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There's no way that the vacuum would pull it all the way to the cylinders.  Even if it could pull it through a clean open pipe that far, the stuff couldn't get past the catalytic converter.

Forgot about the cat, good point. Did all your shavings come out eventually?

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Audio anyone?

First, stock. http://media.putfile.com/stock-17

Second, Drilled. http://media.putfile.com/vfrdrilled

Third, Kkkens gutted. http://media.putfile.com/kens-gutted

Tried to get the same position and range from stock and drilled. The record range is a bit lower, on the stock. Ken's is it's own.

On the Rivcyko scale, I would place it at about 1/3 of a total gut.

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Travis - thanks for keeping that - I forgot I made that short clip. I have to say that after putting about 4,ooo kms on the gutted pipes, I absolutely love the sound. Its not obnoxious, but it is noticeable. NO rattles, not tinny sound - just deep growling, soothing small block chevy with a cam kind of sound. I love the result of the full gut treatment.

:beer:

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Travis, thanks for posting those sound clips. I already have the pipes drilled at an angle, I wonder what 4 more holes straight in would sound like, maybe 1/2 or 2/3 of full gutted?

Axplayer, your method certainly does sound easiest, wonder if there is a noticeable difference in sound between drilling in the two locations.

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Ok. Started with 4 holes. 2 straight through, and 2 in the bend. Decided to go for more. The holes in the bend, I reamed, then went all the way to the back. USE CAUTION, to not lose the counter bore, in the exhaust. (Little at a time, folks). MUCH better!

Is that what you did, Ax?

Now, the other clips, with the new one. LOL. Turn it up....

First, stock. http://media.putfile.com/stock-17

Second, Drilled. http://media.putfile.com/vfrdrilled

Third, Kkkens gutted. http://media.putfile.com/kens-gutted

Fourth *** http://media.putfile.com/more-holes (Hope this helps, Hoopster).

Now at 2/3 total gut. Might see what I can do 'bout enlarging the tubes, slightly, (on the outside). To help lose some of the tin-like sound. Maybe I should find some time to gut and shorten the extra stock exhaust, that I have, collecting dust. LOL.

Ken,

LOL. I have saved all sound bites, videos, etc. LOL. Helps through the winter months.

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The holes in the bend were drilled by allowing the bit to sort of chew through the metal a little at a time. The straight shots were easy, but the bends took a while. The result was four holes of about the same size. It has a nice little growl now, not too obnoxious, although my wife says "it used to be so quiet...."

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Bump. May we get this therad pinned? GREAT Cheap mod. Viperon, yer next. LOL.

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Bump. May we get this therad pinned? GREAT Cheap mod. Viperon, yer next. LOL.

:blink:

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Thank you, veefer800canuck, for pinning this.

I've had a few P.M.s, in reguards to how far in to drill. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words, the unfortunate thing is, getting a pic of it is not going to happen with the camera I own. The best starting point is here,

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...;hl=exhaust+gut

To understand the configuration of the exhaust is your best bet, before attempting this.

You'll know when your through the chamber, (on the straight pipes), when you see the flash protectors, (grate), as shown in Kanadian Ken's 5th pic. You'll know when the drill is about to go through to full diameter, as it will, "bite", a lot harder.

This is when you want to slow the drill's rpm, and not push hard, on the drill. (As it will "pop" through. The hole you just made will cool, shrink, and you'll have one heck of a time trying to pull it back out, without losing the counterbore in your exhaust).

If you go easy, before coming to full diameter, when it does go through, you will get a bit of reaming, making the hole, less tight on the counterbore, thus making the counterbore easy to remove.

On the bent pipes, you are more or less going to poke a small hole in them, then ream them out, at an angle. YOU MUST BE SURE THAT YOU ARE REAMING STRAIGHT BACK, or you'll never get the 5th and 6th holes right, and the cursing will start. After you get that, the 5th and 6th holes are the same as doing the straight pipes.

Sorry for the ramble. When it comes to words, I'm not very articulate. If you don't understand a word I've said, have a friend help. Best I can offer, without a video how-to. Perhaps one of the local riders will want to do this, in the near future, and I'll make and edit a video to post.

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This has been discussed many times. I'm glad to see it's been pinned since so many of the previous threads have been deleted.

I drilled mine with a long 5/8" bit that cost $12.99 at Home Depot, same effect and less money.

Here's the thread.

I caught the thread. MY concern was that, with my ability to screw things up, that I would break the bit off in there. LOL. Great idea. Wish I could take credit for it. LOL.

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Another dumb question? Approximately how deep into the straight pipes do you find the bits that need drilling, and do you angle the drill bit down the curved pipes, or do you just drill straight in?

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Another dumb question? Approximately how deep into the straight pipes do you find the bits that need drilling, and do you angle the drill bit down the curved pipes, or do you just drill straight in?

'Bout 11 inches. Drill at an angle, until it starts to bite, then straighten it out.

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Thanks for te clips, the drilled sounds great!

Audio anyone?

First, stock. http://media.putfile.com/stock-17

Second, Drilled. http://media.putfile.com/vfrdrilled

Third, Kkkens gutted. http://media.putfile.com/kens-gutted

Tried to get the same position and range from stock and drilled. The record range is a bit lower, on the stock. Ken's is it's own.

On the Rivcyko scale, I would place it at about 1/3 of a total gut.

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here a tip... get a auto matic center punch to make a dimple where you want to drill.. putt lots of greese in THE GROVE OF THE BIT!!! it will trap and hold alot of the shavings..

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here a tip... get a auto matic center punch to make a dimple where you want to drill.. putt lots of greese in THE GROVE OF THE BIT!!! it will trap and hold alot of the shavings..

I would recommend using a quality cutting fluid, like Castrol Moly-Dee for example. It doesn't smell too pleasant(lots of sulfur), but it works well. It makes the drill's job easier, and extends the life of the bit. Excellent for use on steel! :thumbsup:

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Now how about a full song sound clip? VFR running from zero to redline in every gear. :thumbsup:

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