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Vtec electrical problems info post


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Have you tested your battery?

The clock will reset anytime the voltage drops below a specific level when you hit the Start button, wether it's a bad connection, component or battery causing the drop.

BR

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We lost all the great and important info related to the Vtec's wiring harness problems and I wanted to try and rebuild all the great info that was in the old post that included problems, cures, dealin

Thanks for the link ProMed ! :huh: Please contact Customer Service at Honda to complain ! Many VFRd members have had their bike repaired by Honda even with out being under Warranty, but it takes so

Posted this in other thread yesterday - bu tif you want to keep consistent - heres my $.02...... I have an 02' and after I saw Bailey's post about his burned up 30 amp fuse, I checked mine. HEre's ho

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stator good too on the last time I tested

If everything tests out good like you say it would almost have to be a bad/loose connection or and issue with the Ground.

BR

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i just think something, could it be my switch stand (failed) :smile2: !!!!???????? :wink::wink::wink:

A bad stand switch won't cause the clock to reset...

Check all connections and grounds as suggested but also get the harness recall done!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all, I just recently got my 2003 vfr800 with 25000 miles on it. I was riding for about 100 miles then stopped to eat. Got back on the bike and started riding when my riding partner told me my lights were out. Sure enough they were and so was my whole dash! (Clock was on though, blinkers worked, and brake light worked). Rpm, speed, odometer ect didn't work. So then I got it home and looked at the fuses and they were all good. I cleaned the contacts on the battery because one looked corroded. I hooked back up the battery and now the bike won't start! Before the fuel pump would turn on even without the light comming on for it but now nothing. The bike will still crank but not start. Now I check the fuses again and the third one up is now blown. Also the plug that plugs into the starter relay is burnt. This is the only burnt wire that I found on the whole bike but this wouldn't cause the lights and dash to go out right?? I cleaned all of the connectors while I have everything off and they all look good. My bike does have the recall done because the blue connector only has the green wire on one side. Im stumped as to what would be causing this. Battery reads 12.6 when sitting. Can someone give me some things to check? Or should I just replace that fuse and connector to the relay and I should be good. It's wierd how the fuse wasn't blown before but the lights and dash still went out. Thanks in advance I need some help!!

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Hello all, I just recently got my 2003 vfr800 with 25000 miles on it. I was riding for about 100 miles then stopped to eat. Got back on the bike and started riding when my riding partner told me my lights were out. Sure enough they were and so was my whole dash! (Clock was on though, blinkers worked, and brake light worked). Rpm, speed, odometer ect didn't work. So then I got it home and looked at the fuses and they were all good. I cleaned the contacts on the battery because one looked corroded. I hooked back up the battery and now the bike won't start! Before the fuel pump would turn on even without the light comming on for it but now nothing. The bike will still crank but not start. Now I check the fuses again and the third one up is now blown. Also the plug that plugs into the starter relay is burnt. This is the only burnt wire that I found on the whole bike but this wouldn't cause the lights and dash to go out right?? I cleaned all of the connectors while I have everything off and they all look good. My bike does have the recall done because the blue connector only has the green wire on one side. Im stumped as to what would be causing this. Battery reads 12.6 when sitting. Can someone give me some things to check? Or should I just replace that fuse and connector to the relay and I should be good. It's wierd how the fuse wasn't blown before but the lights and dash still went out. Thanks in advance I need some help!!

Go to the electrical section under Forums, read the pinned posts and follow the threads - they'll guide you through what to do.

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So I smelled burning wires last night. I took off the fairings today and found that the the stator/RR connection on the right side for the bike was burned/melted. Is this a sign of the RR dying or is it just a bad connector? Bike runs fine, but I did take the cover off of the stator and I noticed that part of it is dark, part of it isn't. Bike runs great and battery stays charged.

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The way to tell with the R/R is to first repair the connector. Then check charging voltage across the battery to see what you have. If that's good the R/R is likely fine. My 6th gen stator looked like it had been BBQ'd at 18,000 miles. It tested good and I was getting good charge voltage, but its days were numbered, so as long as I had it out I replaced it. Difficult to tell with stators - the good die young - but some go close to 50,000 miles with no problem. My decision was easy as I often ride in remote areas far from home and cannot afford that kind of failure where there is no help.

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I finally foud my problem for what the clock was resetting alone. I got the melting problem of the starter relay !!!

the starter relay was melted arond the fuse 30amp where the green plastic is , the red connector around the 4 terminals too.

now I have to change the wire with the white plastic connector.( change color)

One of my colleague at work went to his harness recall and they changed the small harness for the battery and starter relay for free.

guess who`s gonna show at honda next week?

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  • 1 month later...

finally I have installed my harness BUT

I don't know which connectors to use. could someone can help me with that?

see my pic.

which one goes with the "A" ?

which one goes with the "B" ?

Is it possible that I have 2 extra connectors left ?

With that many connectors, the bike has already had the wiring harness recall completed. Before the wiring harness update, you would only have one battery connection (6-pin connector, 2 red, 2 green, 1 black/white, and a blank) to the R/R, the updated front wiring harness includes a piggy-back type connector which makes 2 of these 6-pin connectors.

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I finally foud my problem for what the clock was resetting alone. I got the melting problem of the starter relay !!!

the starter relay was melted arond the fuse 30amp where the green plastic is , the red connector around the 4 terminals too.

now I have to change the wire with the white plastic connector.( change color)

One of my colleague at work went to his harness recall and they changed the small harness for the battery and starter relay for free.

guess who`s gonna show at honda next week?

Common problem with this bike , my 03 did the same thing .

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  • 10 months later...
On 10/13/2015 at 4:23 PM, Switchblade said:

Common problem with this bike , my 03 did the same thing .

David, I think your bike did it from all the Dragon rash on it!  :beer:

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13 hours ago, Baileyrock said:

David, I think your bike did it from all the Dragon rash on it!  :beer:

Never crashed at the Dragon on it, it got totaled on Blood Mountain on 60. 

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On 8/24/2016 at 9:22 AM, Switchblade said:

Never crashed at the Dragon on it, it got totaled on Blood Mountain on 60. 

Just messing with you anyway, so details are not that important. :goofy:

 

Where you been man??? :unsure:

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On 8/25/2016 at 6:19 PM, Baileyrock said:

Just messing with you anyway, so details are not that important. :goofy:

 

Where you been man??? :unsure:

Right here in God's country !

 

Rode the   Dragon 3 times this week and went to Fraklin  for lunch Tuesday on the 51.

GOPR2509.JPG

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So many legendary 51's.  P51 . . .  Area 51. . . and of course RC51.  Lots of good company! 

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9 hours ago, Switchblade said:

Right here in God's country !

 

Rode the   Dragon 3 times this week and went to Fraklin  for lunch Tuesday on the 51.

GOPR2509.JPG

That's right, you finally got a Real bike to play on! :blush:

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12 hours ago, Baileyrock said:

That's right, you finally got a Real bike to play on! :blush:

It's awesome, install a set of Met M7rr's and started pushing it hard the front forks bottom out 3 times BUT still what a blast to ride .

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  • 2 years later...
  • 2 months later...
On 8/31/2007 at 4:44 PM, DaveM said:

I know there are a lot of posts on this topic, but my experience was a little different and I wanted to throw it out for consideration. Over the past couple of months my 02 had developed some really serious drivability issues. Once she got over about 180deg she would start missing at constant throttle settings. In the mildest form it felt like the lean surge problem, and in its worst form you could hear individual cylinders dropping in and out and it felt like it was going to die. Moving the throttle a good bit would cause everything to pick back up but it was very annoying, and sometimes scary if you were in a corner. The problem didn’t exhibit itself constantly. Some times she would run smooth as butter for a couple of days. I had been watching the 30A B fuse for a while and it was starting to show the typical wiring insulation discoloration and signs of heat so I did one of the recommended repairs. This lowered the fuse wire temp, but it was still getting warm and the drivability problem was still there. I checked the main and front harness ground wires next – no signs of heat or discoloration, the connectors separated easily etcetera, so I didn’t implement any of the repairs suggested. I did apply some super duper Volvo electrical connector grease given to me by a friend to the blue and gray connectors. (Seems modern drive by wire Volvos occasionally develop electrical gremlins and the fix is to put this stuff on the connectors). Still no change. So, I got out the service manual and started to work my way through the wiring diagram and learned the following:

The B fuse (the one that melts) does not supply working circuits in the front harness. The power passes through the front harness to be switched by the control relays (fuel cut and I think one other), but no working circuits. This means the grounds from the front harness are not really associated with the B fuse, and the fact that both melt is a coincidence, not a cause and effect relationship. So when we fix the front grounding problem we are fixing problems related to accessory circuits and the A fuse.

This led me to start looking at the main harness. It appears the B fuse supplies all of the engine management circuits – ignition coils, injectors, TPS, O2s, etcetera. Loss of voltage in these circuits would logically seem to cause drivability problems, so I popped of the right fairing and pulled all of the engine management connectors apart. Nothing appeared to be wrong, no visible corrosion or anything, but I checked all of the female connectors and attempted to tighten any that looked to be too open, applied magical Volvo grease, and plugged everything back together. Viola! Drivability problem gone – smooth as glass at any steady throttle setting from 3500rpm up and now the B fuse is cool to the touch. Why did the problem seem heat sensitive? The only thing I can determine is a couple of the right side electrical connectors lay against the upper radiator hose, and once the coolant started to flow the connectors heated up and raised the resistance in already marginal connections.

The message here – when you’re working on your B fuse problems, check those engine management harness connectors!

I apologize for the long post, but I hope it helps someone else.

Quick Update. Two weeks, 1000+ miles, ambient temps from 47 - 94, and coolant temps from 170 - 223, still smooth. No surging, no missing, and the B fuse is staying cool. I've owned this bike for two years and 17,000 miles (had less than 2k on it when I bought it) and it has never ran this well at steady state cruise speeds. Now it's no not just fun to ride, but a pleasure to ride!! fing02.gif

Thanks for the post...i've got the same problems (thought it was a problem with synchonisation of the throttle valves....but after a few days it was the same...and getting worse faster day by day...) I'll go and check those connectors at ECU and next to the radiator.....Greetings, Lars.

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  • 9 months later...

Wiremybike.com for the VFRness wiring upgrade is perfect, I can build one for the ama track and this one is what I would build and be damn proud of. Upgraded to a caltric stator with a a back up ready if needed and added the Anitgravity restart ATZ-10. Started the bike with the high beams on minutes at a time started the bike 40 times randomly in a 12 hour period after the first ride. Never charged the battery immediate incredible powerful rip start every time! Dash lights and high beams are unimaginable bright compared to before. I install Glow Tek HID lights for the primary. That kit is awesome.too. I ride the country roads with no fear of needing a jump. Kn air oil filter, Power commander V and Delkevic slip ons it runs very well. Smooth as glass linear acceleration through all the gears and the vtec hits so hard now with the boosted power, you can the hear and feel the valves slam open at 6800 rpms! Wow! It truly feels like a sport tourer hitting a CR500R power band! GEEETTT ITTT! New racing Vortex sprockets and chain Her name is Hellcat! IBUYPOWERSPORTS@GMAIL.COM. I have the full build photod and video taped in professional fashion. Hit me up I'd you are interested in buying a kit with world class tutorials! Or just the tutorials. Thank you Ronnie!

 

 

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