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Vtec electrical problems info post


Baileyrock
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Hey guys, guess 40k miles is time for me to get on the electrical gremlin bandwagon here with my 2002 non ABS.

The issues began about a month ago, at work. Key on, hit starter, and she was dead. I tried to jump start the bike, but the second I removed the auxiliary battery, it died. Went to Interstate (In a 52hp Diesel Jetta) to get another battery, installed it, ran great. I figured the battery was sulfated and it had an internal short.

Fast forward another month and it did the exact same thing. I knew about the R/R and stator issues, so I figured I would tear her down and see what was up. Lo and behold...whoa

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So the R/R to stator connection was bad. I assume this means the R/R is bad also. I ohmed the stator out per sec. 17 of the shop manual, and everything was within spec. All I have read on the R/R is that I cannot test it at home. I figure it's bad though since the connector was fried.

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Really fried.

I checked voltage through the battery negative as I did in the first place to determine if there was still a current drain and there was, I calculated it to approximately 0.4 amps, more than enough to kill a battery in a night. This being the case I made my way through the wiring diagram, looking over all the fuses, and I ran across a couple of items. The first was the red connector over the green starter relay. It was melted on the terminal that takes the RED wire. I pulled the fuse (30 amp, main fuse A), which caused the current draw from the battery to stop. I also noticed the holder for main fuse A was slightly discolored, but I do not view it as a contributing issue yet. Disconnecting that fuse did nothing to my current draw.

Once I isolated the current draw to that circuit, I followed the red wire to the keyswitch, which tested good per sec. 20-21 of the manual. I then followed the red/green wire to the instrument panel and unplugged that 20 pin connector, which stopped the current draw.

To summarize,

This bike keeps killing batteries

I found a totally destroyed R/R to stator connection

Stator ohmed out OK

Battery still is being drained whilst R/R is NOT connected (0.43A @ 12.7V battery voltage)

30 amp Fuse A connector is melted at green connector (red wire)

30 amp Fuse B connector is beginning to discolor.

Current draw ceases once Fuse A is pulled

Current draw ceases if instrument panel (20 pin) plug is disconnected (no discoloration on this connector)

I am pretty stumped as to why this is happening as it seems nobody mentions instrument panel, nor the fuse on the starter solenoid. Any suggestions on what I should test/replace? I figure I am in it for a new Rectifier and fuse holder, but I fear it could be more.

Edited by Nelso90
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Thanks for the fast responses guys. I will get a standard VFRNess on order today. Should I go ahead and replace my rectifier? The current draw from the battery at key off is worrisome, but as long as the VFRness fixes it, we should be good.

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Thanks for the fast responses guys. I will get a standard VFRNess on order today. Should I go ahead and replace my rectifier? The current draw from the battery at key off is worrisome, but as long as the VFRness fixes it, we should be good.

I would just for the piece of mind .

Roll On ..

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have to do for sure the 30 amp mods , i would like to do the blue harness connector mod too , but my harness is different from yours. (see the pics)

!! no ground on the fwd side of the blue connector !!

problems encounted : engine die while running the highway, my dashboard was like a christmas tree, i don't know for the headlight lamp it happens during the day.

What solution or mods should I do?

thank you in advance guys

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I have tested my system this morning,

I have checked :

reg/rec---ok

stator continuity---ok

stator voltage at idle----ok (almost all the same)

charging circuit--- connecting the black lead from multimeter to positive battery and red lead from multimeter to red wire coming out from reg/rec

this should give 0.2 volt from the fault finding chart of electrosport.

and i got 0.8 volt. the chart said more than 0.2 is : "Bad connection in the positive lead from RR to battery(+)

then I touch the 30 amp holder (who is the positive wire), ouch omg that was hot

so I ordered a vfrness from wiremybike. 2 to 5 days to canada.

give you some news when its done

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  • 3 weeks later...

finally I have installed my harness BUT

I don't know which connectors to use. could someone can help me with that?

see my pic.

which one goes with the "A" ?

which one goes with the "B" ?

Is it possible that I have 2 extra connectors left ?

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thank you , now I can ffinish my installation.

one more thing.... in the instruction , in testing section , line 5. " retest the voltage at the accessory wire....."

is this line is only for people who took the option with the vfrness.?

at idle i should have 13.5 to 14.5 i have 14.2 thats good. but when I rev the bike at 5k. I still have 14.2 , the instruction says 14.3 to 14.7volts

do you think my bike is ok now?

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thank you , now I can ffinish my installation.

one more thing.... in the instruction , in testing section , line 5. " retest the voltage at the accessory wire....."

is this line is only for people who took the option with the vfrness.?

at idle i should have 13.5 to 14.5 i have 14.2 thats good. but when I rev the bike at 5k. I still have 14.2 , the instruction says 14.3 to 14.7volts

do you think my bike is ok now?

Your are good to go !

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a new problem now ,

I have done the vfrness mod , everythings seems to be good . I took my bike to go to work in a hot hot day!!! 38 degre C

while a was riding my clock reset to 1:00am all by itself.

then after a few kilometers the motor stops ,so I pull the clutch and release it to start the bike . i did it 3 times before it starts ( was riding around 90 km/h).

another thing!!! my fuel tank has a fuel level problem it says its always empty or almost empty even after a refill.

do you think that this problem can cause my motor to stop ( computer wise )

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