lucwilride Posted July 5 Share Posted July 5 Hello, I have an ‘05 VFR800 VTEC ABS, ~43,000km on it. I’m having intermittent issues with the throttle and wondering if anyone has an idea of what is going on. Aside from this the bike is in great shape and runs/rides well. Basically it feels like I am fully closing the throttle and my hand position has not changed at all. This happens mainly when i’m cruising around taking it easy, between 4000 - 6000rpm, on and off the throttle in traffic. The bike will lose revs/power, the nose will drop. If I don’t quickly apply more throttle, the bike will continue to lose revs, just like if I had closed the throttle and was coasting. Again, i have not moved the throttle position at all. It does this in rain or sun, hot or cold, any gear, any speed. It did it tonight on my ride home in a low speed corner and I had to quickly add throttle to keep the bike upright. I really love this bike but if I can’t trust it to maintain my inputs I really don’t want to ride it until this is sorted. Any help is greatly appreciated. I wonder if it’s related to the airbox flap activating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted July 6 Member Contributer Share Posted July 6 Sounds like a Vtec transition or a TPS sensor issue. If you have checked the throttle cables & they are free moving & correctly adjusted = zero free play when bars are on the lock stop left/right which ever is the tighter side. Then some of the Vtec guys can chime in, as the transition point was changed at various points in the model run. But IIRC this was the biggest complaint about the first Vtec model from 2002-2005 or 6. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lorne Posted July 6 Member Contributer Share Posted July 6 I don't believe the airbag flapper is the culprit. That rattling was obvious on both my 5th gen VFR800s, but never on my '09 Vtec (93K km). Mohawk's suggestion of throttle cable fee play seems top of the list to check, and can be done in the garage. Start your bike and once the engine is idling normally, close the throttle then check how much you can rotate it before the engine speeds up. The book calls for 2-6 mm of free play. But if you do need to tighten it double check afterwords that engine speed doesn't change when your turn the handlebars lock to lock. Do you know if your bike is completely stock and unmolested? In any case, you can also do a basic mechanical check to assess fuelling and electrical systems to affirm that everything's kosher. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 7 Member Contributer Share Posted July 7 Questions and Suggestions...... - How fresh is your fuel? Could you have bad fuel, water condensation in the tank especially with Ethanol blended Fuel? - Possible dirty Fuel Filter. - What is the health status of your battery? How old is it? Are the terminals Clean and Tight? - How old are the Spark Plugs? - Check for a leaky/ruptured Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm. Remove its vaccumm hose and check for any sign of fuel in the hose or dripping from the FPR hose connector, should normally be dry. - When the fault occurs Does The Fi Light come On? - Check Vacuum Hose to the MAP Sensor, make sure there are no kinks, cracks or breaks in the hose and that it is properly connected to the MAP Sensor. - Suggest going through the process of reading the ECM memory historical fault codes, take note of any, then clear the memory. Go riding till the fault reoccurs recheck the ECM historical codes, an intermittent sensor failure might be logged in the ECM memory. A current active fault will have your Fi Light On while riding then displays the code once stopped and Sidestand is down, Ignition to On. - Check the wiring and Fuse connector for Main Fuse B 30amp. This fuse feeds ALL your EFI stuff and commonly suffers from heat stressed wiring and high resistance fuse joints causing intermittent to total failure of your EFI. - Check the Red 4P Connector at the Starter Relay. Make Sure the Red wire that come from Main Fuse A 30amp is Not heat stressed and has not melted the red plastic of the 4P connector, make sure the Red wire Spade connector is making good, clean, tight contact to the Starter Relay contact. All of the above are some known causes of various forms of Surging and Bogging. Assume you have the Service Manual? You can download it from this forum. Good Luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 Thanks Mohawk, Lorne & Grum for the detailed replies! I didn't have much time this weekend but I checked the easy stuff: - Fuel is "fresh", I've been going through a tank or two a week since late April. Latest fuel up was from Costco (in Ontario, Canada) for 91 on Friday morning. Before that was Shell 94 I think and the bike was running fine until I re-fuelled on Friday morning. It's somewhat difficult to get ethanol free fuel around me so most fuel I use is ethanol blended. I do put ethanol free fuel in for the winter - Battery is new and sitting at ~14.3v at idle, terminals are clean and tight. This spring I replaced the stator, R/R (roadstercycle kit), and wiring and fuse holder/connector for both 30amp main fuses. No signs of heat damage since replacement. It was definitely cooked before replacement - Throttle free play was at 0 - 1mm, I adjusted it to 3mm - Spark plugs are new this spring - The vacuum hose from the bottom of the MAP sensor looks ok as far as I can see it without removing the air box - The FI light did not light up on Friday. I did see the FI light come on once a few weeks ago while riding, I pulled over and shut off the bike, started up again an all was ok - I have the Haynes Manual and the downloaded manual, just trying to figure out how to read historical codes - Looks like I'll need to pull the airbox to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm through the vacuum hose, I'll check this when I can - This same bogging issue has happened sporadically throughout the riding season but it was particularly bad on Friday - 'Mods': Delkevic slip on exhaust, K&N filter (cleaned/oil this spring) Questions: - Is there a way I can check for water in the tank? - Should I siphon the fuel out of the tank and try new fuel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR78 Posted July 8 Member Contributer Share Posted July 8 I would try a new load of ethanol free fuel first. If the bike was running ok before the last fill, it seems to point to the fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 9 hours ago, lucwilride said: Thanks Mohawk, Lorne & Grum for the detailed replies! I didn't have much time this weekend but I checked the easy stuff: - Fuel is "fresh", I've been going through a tank or two a week since late April. Latest fuel up was from Costco (in Ontario, Canada) for 91 on Friday morning. Before that was Shell 94 I think and the bike was running fine until I re-fuelled on Friday morning. It's somewhat difficult to get ethanol free fuel around me so most fuel I use is ethanol blended. I do put ethanol free fuel in for the winter - Battery is new and sitting at ~14.3v at idle, terminals are clean and tight. This spring I replaced the stator, R/R (roadstercycle kit), and wiring and fuse holder/connector for both 30amp main fuses. No signs of heat damage since replacement. It was definitely cooked before replacement - Throttle free play was at 0 - 1mm, I adjusted it to 3mm - Spark plugs are new this spring - The vacuum hose from the bottom of the MAP sensor looks ok as far as I can see it without removing the air box - The FI light did not light up on Friday. I did see the FI light come on once a few weeks ago while riding, I pulled over and shut off the bike, started up again an all was ok - I have the Haynes Manual and the downloaded manual, just trying to figure out how to read historical codes - Looks like I'll need to pull the airbox to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator Diaphragm through the vacuum hose, I'll check this when I can - This same bogging issue has happened sporadically throughout the riding season but it was particularly bad on Friday - 'Mods': Delkevic slip on exhaust, K&N filter (cleaned/oil this spring) Questions: - Is there a way I can check for water in the tank? - Should I siphon the fuel out of the tank and try new fuel? Checking for water in the fuel is not a bad idea. I have had this happen before (I transferred fuel from another bike but there was some water in it as that bike's gas cap was leaky). See can you find something called "Wynn's Dry Fuel" or some sort of "water remover" which forces water to mix with the fuel and it burns off. Siphoning it might not work very well, you might leave some behind due to the shape of the tank. However, as fuel floats on water, the water SHOULD be fully blocking fuel going into the pump or injectors so it shouldn't be running at all. How is the thermostat? I had a bad thermostat when I bought the bike in 2020 and it made it run extremely rough. The engine temp wouldn't budge above 55c when it should have been around 80c at "normal" temp. A new thermostat sorted that and it ran nicely after that. If I were you I'd go through @Grum's excellent list of issues first and then take a look at the above. Best of luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 Thanks VFR78 & fabio222 for the replies. I'll be siphoning out the tank as best I can tonight and putting in new fuel with a water remover additive to try and make sure there is no water in there. I've found that since last year all the Ethanol free fuel options I had around have disappeared. There are new fuel regulations in Ontario as of last year and Ethanol free appears to be on it's way out here 😑. Edit: I forgot to mention, the thermostat seems fine, I tested it from cold start and the radiators only start warming up once the bike hits around 80 degrees C which I believe is what is expected. Hello @Grum, I just checked the stored FI Fault codes. It is throwing code 22 = Faulty no. 3/4 Oxygen Sensor, no codes other than that one. Any thoughts on whether or not that could lead to the issue I am having? I'll pull the fairings tonight so I can check the sensor, wiring and connector. Could someone explain how I can check the wiring between the sensor and ECM for shorts? It appears that I would check continuity of the black/orange wire between the ECM and connector? The other wire (that is not for the heating element) seems to be light grey in the wiring diagram and this connects to a green/orange wire that goes to most of the other sensors. Do I need to check that wire as well for shorts/continuity? It looks like the heating element has it's own fault code (which has not been thrown) but I will check the resistance between the two white wires on the sensor itself anyway. This is a ~$300+ part for me so if there is anything I should verify prior to just buying a new one and replacing it I would appreciate any tips. Thank you! Can I ride the bike with this faulty sensor or is it best to park it until that is fixed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noely Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 Hello All, I'm also interested in this conversation. I have a 02 VFR Vtech... 63k kilometres in great condition. Up to December 23' I have a big overhaul done, New cam chains and tensioners, plugs, filters, oil etc. Got her back, but couldn't ride due to crap weather for x6 weeks. I noticed straight away in 4th/5th gear a lag when climbing speed between 5/6k revs, then Vtech kicks in and it's fine !! I've tried checking fuel etc, had it back to the garage and they changed the coils, but it's still the same. Now they think it's the brand of plugs they used ? I've copied Grums solutions as I think electrics because it always lags at the same point and other than that, revs seem fine 🤔 But it is annoying and dangerous 😦 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 9 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9 11 hours ago, lucwilride said: Hello @Grum, I just checked the stored FI Fault codes. It is throwing code 22 = Faulty no. 3/4 Oxygen Sensor, no codes other than that one. Any thoughts on whether or not that could lead to the issue I am having? I'll pull the fairings tonight so I can check the sensor, wiring and connector. Could someone explain how I can check the wiring between the sensor and ECM for shorts? It appears that I would check continuity of the black/orange wire between the ECM and connector? The other wire (that is not for the heating element) seems to be light grey in the wiring diagram and this connects to a green/orange wire that goes to most of the other sensors. Do I need to check that wire as well for shorts/continuity? It looks like the heating element has it's own fault code (which has not been thrown) but I will check the resistance between the two white wires on the sensor itself anyway. This is a ~$300+ part for me so if there is anything I should verify prior to just buying a new one and replacing it I would appreciate any tips. Thank you! Can I ride the bike with this faulty sensor or is it best to park it until that is fixed? I wouldn't worry too much about the Code 22 for the O2 sensor at this stage, other than to perhaps check its 4P Black connector for good, clean connections. The Service Manual Symptoms for this Fault States - "Engine Operates Normally". It would be highly unlikley the O2 sensor fault would cause your nasty issue as the O2 sensor just provides feedback info to the ECM (closed Loop Mode) for A/F ratio fine trimming. Did you clear the code as suggested? You want to do this and re run your bike, who knows when that O2 Sensor DTC could have been logged to memory, if your bike gives you a hard time, its after that when you want to see and recall if any intermittent fault has been stored to memory. AND when riding when the fault occurs check the status of the Fi Light as quick as you can IF you can! A sudden flash of the Fi Light could also mean a momentary loss of EFI Power - The Black/White wire coming from the Engine Stop Relay and ultimately from Main Fuse B 30amp previously mentioned. With the memory cleared any highly intermittent error detected by the ECM (there one second, gone the next) will be stored and may help in isolating a problem causer. An intermittent sensor issue, such as the TPS, a Fuel Injector, Ignition Pulse or Cam Pulse Generator etc is more likely to cause sudden changes to the bikes operation, not an O2 Sensor, especially as you've stated that "It does this in rain or sun, hot or cold, any gear, any speed". And, as mentioned, an Active current fault detected by the ECM will have your Fi Light ON while riding, then displays the flashing code once stationary with SidesStand Down. If the fault suddenly comes good the Active code dissappears and no flashing code will be seen, However it will be logged and stored in the historical memory for later recall. There most definetly is No problems riding the bike just because of a historical memory DTC of 22 for the O2 Sensor. If it was currently Active your Fi Light would be telling you so, you don't have that situation. Just curious - When you changed the Spark Plugs. What brand and part number were they? Be interested in hearing how you get on after siphoning as much as you can from the tank and refill with fresh preferably non Ethanol blended fuel. There are stories of Fuel Stations (high humidity regions of Texas is one area) that do not purge their storage tanks, this allows the continued build up of water in the tanks because of Ethanols hygroscopic nature, this can ultimately end up in the fuel tanks of customers, something to think about! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 Thanks again for the detailed reply Grum 🙏. Glad to hear the O2 should not be a major issue, I'll clear the codes tonight and see what pops up over the coming rides. 9 hours ago, Grum said: And, as mentioned, an Active current fault detected by the ECM will have your Fi Light ON while riding, then displays the flashing code once stationary with SidesStand Down. On this point, do I just come to a stop once I see the light come on, put the side stand down and it will start flashing the code number? Do I need to shut the bike off? The spark plugs are OE parts from partzilla, NGK, P/N: 31912-MCW-003 (IMR9B-9H). I'll pull the coils and just make sure they are all still snug in there. From the information I could find it seemed like the IMR9B plugs were the right ones, as opposed to the IMR8B. I've put Sta-Bil 360 into the tank for now, I'll run it this week and see if any change. Also still planning to pull the air box and check the fuel regulator diaphragm and also double check the various fuses and connections noted above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted July 9 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9 43 minutes ago, lucwilride said: Thanks again for the detailed reply Grum 🙏. Glad to hear the O2 should not be a major issue, I'll clear the codes tonight and see what pops up over the coming rides. On this point, do I just come to a stop once I see the light come on, put the side stand down and it will start flashing the code number? Do I need to shut the bike off? The spark plugs are OE parts from partzilla, NGK, P/N: 31912-MCW-003 (IMR9B-9H). I'll pull the coils and just make sure they are all still snug in there. From the information I could find it seemed like the IMR9B plugs were the right ones, as opposed to the IMR8B. I've put Sta-Bil 360 into the tank for now, I'll run it this week and see if any change. Also still planning to pull the air box and check the fuel regulator diaphragm and also double check the various fuses and connections noted above. To be honest with the four VFR's I've owned I've never experienced an EFI fault while riding, so I'm going by what the Service Manual states. It's makes good sense that whilst riding and a fault is detected you don't want a distracting flashing light in front of you, only when stationary, sidestand down, kill switch to RUN, ignition to On that the code will display not sure if engine needs to be running, but the fault needs to be active. Plugs are correct being the NGK IMR9B-9H. The optional 8B are a slightly hotter heat range plug. Good luck with all the other checks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted July 9 Share Posted July 9 I wonder could we just be talking about dirty injectors? If I had this issue with carbs I'd remove them and give them a thorough clean. I know that isn't as easy to do with injectors, and they don't tend to be as susceptible to gunking up, but it might be worth thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted July 9 Author Share Posted July 9 23 minutes ago, fabio222 said: I wonder could we just be talking about dirty injectors? If I had this issue with carbs I'd remove them and give them a thorough clean. I know that isn't as easy to do with injectors, and they don't tend to be as susceptible to gunking up, but it might be worth thinking about it. Man I hope not, I'll rule out the other stuff first. For cleaning injectors is there actually an effective fuel additive that will clean them or would they have to be disassembled and cleaned? The bike does need a valve inspection this year so I could have a look at cleaning the injectors while I have the airbox and throttle assembly pulled out for that job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted July 9 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9 I'm lazy. To know that they were clean, you'd have to take them out. If you're out...clean them by taking them out. lol I've only used additives with some success. One track bike needs them to come out. It has for probably nearly a decade. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Mohawk Posted July 9 Member Contributer Share Posted July 9 If the bike runs fine everywhere except the vtec transition point, I'd be looking there. But if it only went wonk after the last refuel then switch out the fuel & see if it gets better. If mot then look further. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noely Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 BTW in my case, we changed the coils but the bike still had the same issue... Then, changed all the spark plugs and HEY PRESTO... That was it ! It runs perfectly now. NGK PLUGS went in, not sure the brand that came out 😕 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted July 15 Share Posted July 15 Is there a VTEC solenoid valve which might be faulty? One which actuates the extra couple of valves in each cylinder at the VTEC transition point... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted July 18 Author Share Posted July 18 Thanks for the replies Noely and fabio222. Glad you found your issue Noely! I wonder about the Vtec solenoid as well, I do occasionally have similar bogging behavior while the bike is transitioning into Vtec. Basically I can feel Vtec start to activate at 6800rpm and then it bogs heavily, recovers and then proceeds to increase revs and accelerate. It's usually when I'm passing through the Vtec transition slowly, never an issue when I'm full throttle through the transition from what I can remember. Is there a way to test the Vtec solenoid function? Not much for updates as I've not had time to dig into the bike the last week or so. I rode it into work last week, 1hr ride each way. It was fine on the ride in but the bogging came back about 30 minutes into the ride home. It was worse than before, to the point that the bike is dropping below idle speed and I have to add throttle to keep it from stalling. The throttle response feels spongy for lack of a better term and takes a few throttle twists to recover and get back above idle. I've not ridden the bike since then. I'm suspecting (and hoping) that I may have a clogged fuel tank vent tube. I think I've noticed pressure in the tank when opening the cap a few times recently but it's hard to tell because the cap is difficult to open and it tends to clonk loudly once it does release. My key is sticky in the tank lock so the difficulty in opening is not just because of pressure I think, hard to say. I should have checked it right away when I got home from work last week but I was annoyed and forgot. I'm thinking along this line because of the tank pressure, and the fact that so far I've mainly experienced this issue on a ride home from work after the bike has run for 30-45 minutes in hot weather, which I think would be enough to create a pressure differential in the tank if it's not venting properly. Any thoughts on this? We have spiders around here that tend to crawl into small spaces and lay eggs, the vent tube would be a nice little home for one aside from the fumes haha Still planning to check the following when I can make time: - Fuel tank vent tube - Vacuum line on FPR, check for fuel to see if diaphragm is ruptured - Check that new spark plugs are still torqued in properly, reseat coils - Monitor fault codes, so far no flashing FI light or new codes during or after the ride to work last week - Check of the Vacuum Hose to the MAP Sensor with the airbox out of the way - Check wiring to main fuses as suggested by Grum - If I rule all these things out, I'll probably buy a new fuel filter and swap that in and go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted August 6 Author Share Posted August 6 Some updates: Things I've checked: - Pulled gas tank, drained all fuel, add new fuel and ethanol stabilizer - Checked tank vent hose, not clogged. The way I had it routed it may have kinked itself when the tank was lowered, I rerouted it to avoid kinking - Removed airbox, inspect all vacuum lines and all connectors (cleaned these with MAP sensor cleaner and plugged back in) - FPR diaphragm does not appear to be ruptured, vacuum line was dry (although bike has been sitting for 4+ weeks without running) - Vacuum hose to FPR was starting to crack on the ID, I trimmed it back about 6mm and reinstalled - Vacuum hose to MAP looks ok - Checked both main 30A fuses, both are fine, wires look fine - Spark plugs checked, they were "snug". I tightened them a little more - No new FI fault codes, although the last time I checked it after clearing codes the light was constantly on. The manual says this could be a short circuit in the FI warning light circuit, or a Faulty ECM (😢). I'll re-check codes this week after the issues I experienced on latest ride (detailed below) New bike issues: - I've ridden about 3hrs since the above checks were completed, the first 2.5hrs the bike rode lovely and I started to have hope - Shortly after starting the ride yesterday, I stopped at a light and the idle dropped to about 800rpm. I gave it some revs, it came back up and stayed for the rest of the ride. This has happened a bunch of times over the 2 years I've had the bike, I figured it was a starter valve sync issue and didn't worry too much about it as it always ran ok after giving some revs - The last 30 minutes of the ride yesterday things got interesting and my hope was crushed. The bogging returned, intermittent hesitation during V-TEC transition (while accelerating) and intermittent laggy throttle response at various RPMs. I've also been hearing a distinct "click" sound during V-tec transition the last 2 rides - I noticed the Idle RPM was around 1500rpm (300rpm higher than usual) after this behavior came back - My friend was riding behind me, he said he could smell strong fuel smell whenever the bike was bogging. He could hear the bike bog and then it would smell strongly of fuel afterwards - About 5 minutes from home, I noticed my turn signal indicator light on the dash was very dim. My friend confirmed my rear lights and turn signals were also dim. I glanced at my voltage meter (which is wired into the rear light circuit) and it was reading below 11 volts, and then just errored out as the voltage dropped. Bike was still running. The voltage continued to get lower as I got closer to home, I eventually lost all taillights and the dash was completely blank except for the clock (clock did not lose time). The bike was running still but basically stalled as soon as I got in my driveway (small win getting home at least). I checked to see if the tank was holding pressure just incase and it was not. I pulled the battery and put the bike in the shed and went inside for a beer Any thoughts or recommendations on diagnosing this new behavior would be greatly appreciated. This issue with voltage drop is obviously pointing me towards electrical issues so I'll be going through all fuses and charging system wiring again when I can find time. As noted previously, the stator, rectifier/regulator, and all charging wiring/fuses were replaced this spring with aftermarket parts, I'll go through all this and test everything and inspect the solder joints, etc. I'll also re-check FI codes, although I did not notice any flashing during or after the ride yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted August 7 Member Contributer Share Posted August 7 Smells like a charging system problem. Have you done the usual checks for voltage and resistance, and checked the wiring/connectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted August 7 Member Contributer Share Posted August 7 Agree with bmart regards the charging system...... But. I know in your July 8th posting you said the Battery was new, is it a good quality battery and same minimum spec as the oem YTZ12S? And back then you had an excellent charging Voltage of 14.3v at Idle. Have you tried charging it first then have it load checked? Any good Auto store will do that for free. Your battery may have developed a shorted cell this might drag down the charging voltage. Surging on a 6gen can also be caused by a dying battery. With the fault you have, you absolutely want to be sure you have a perfectly healthy battery before assuming anything else is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucwilride Posted August 7 Author Share Posted August 7 12 hours ago, Grum said: Agree with bmart regards the charging system...... But. I know in your July 8th posting you said the Battery was new, is it a good quality battery and same minimum spec as the oem YTZ12S? And back then you had an excellent charging Voltage of 14.3v at Idle. Have you tried charging it first then have it load checked? Any good Auto store will do that for free. Your battery may have developed a shorted cell this might drag down the charging voltage. Surging on a 6gen can also be caused by a dying battery. With the fault you have, you absolutely want to be sure you have a perfectly healthy battery before assuming anything else is at fault. Thanks bmart and Grum for the replies. The battery is a Parts Unlimited AGM Battery YTZ12S-BS - CTZ12S-BS purchased from Fortnine in October 2023. I believe it's a decent quality battery, well reviewed, but it is quite a bit less expensive than the Yuasa one so maybe there is a reason for that. It sat inside the house all winter on a battery tender. I'll be going through the whole charging system in detail this weekend, inspecting and testing everything. I'll also charge the battery and take it in for a load test as recommended. Up until the ride yesterday the bike voltage has been rock solid all this year since I put the new system in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer bmart Posted August 7 Member Contributer Share Posted August 7 1 hour ago, lucwilride said: Up until the ride yesterday That's how it goes and where "It worked until it didn't" comes from! In my CB-1, I carry a spare R/R and have installed the spare multiple times while on a ride. 🙂 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fabio222 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Sounds like something breaking down under heat, which might be a coil or charging system issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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