Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 6, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2023 I don't think you need to go crazy on the this round of cleaning on the main bodies, just verify clear passages. I don't like introducing too much water based fluids (really, anything) into the butterfly shafts. This isn't a restoration and you can't see the carbs. If the carb boot clamps have the limiting collars, consider ditching em. Just tighten in a reasonable manner, don't bury them. I've had the collars prevent the bands from getting anywhere close to tight on old hardware on multiple bikes, even with new boots. Or grind a bit off the collars and check for tightness on the engine side. Otherwise, sounds like a pretty complete hit list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 6, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2023 3 hours ago, Captain 80s said: Otherwise, sounds like a pretty complete hit list. Thanks Captain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atx Posted September 7, 2023 Share Posted September 7, 2023 On 9/6/2023 at 3:02 PM, Captain 80s said: If the carb boot clamps have the limiting collars, consider ditching em. Just tighten in a reasonable manner, don't bury them. I've had the collars prevent the bands from getting anywhere close to tight on old hardware on multiple bikes, even with new boots. Or grind a bit off the collars and check for tightness on the engine side. Never even considered that or had issues on the couple of these bikes i've done, but on the 400 i'll keep a close eye on the clamps for sure. Looks like a great list to me. Beefed up charging, good coolant plan, good carb plan, you should be ready to rock. I'd do a quick tclocks check and make sure the bike overall is set. I get so focused on a carb rebuild or whatever and want to rush to ride, but i have to remind myself that the chain etc should be checked haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 7, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2023 2 hours ago, atx said: I'd do a quick tclocks check and make sure the bike overall is set. Thank you atx, Ive never heard that term before. But everything is going back together pretty methodical, as if I was going to track days or a nice semi-not so-mellow ride thru W. VA. I just found out my shock is still 2 or so weeks out form being done so if all the carb do-dads gets here soon I'm going in. I'm very anxious to spark test the engine to confirm a working starter clutch! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc24dk Posted September 8, 2023 Share Posted September 8, 2023 ... and the spark trigger 🙂 The audience is waiting in excitement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 8, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 8, 2023 Me Too!! I got a 50/50 chance... 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 On 9/6/2023 at 4:02 PM, Captain 80s said: I don't think you need to go crazy on the this round Captain 80s, I mean no disrespect, but i did separate the carburetors. I was taking things apart to put in aluminum fuel and vent tubes and realized I'm like 2 cotter pins away from having the bodies on a work surface. The carbs are so clean the bodies just need a dry brush blow and wipe. I do have some concerns and questions I sure would like opinion and direction from guys that actually do this shit! I liken this stuff to a much younger me on a track weekend, me with my little pup tent set up and having one of the Honda garage mechanics come out sit down and have a Coca-Cola with me and tell me what to do to the bike! So here we go, I have a lot of pics. btw the intake ports and intake valve tops all look fairly consistent, #3 looking the the worst of all of them but I also had broken boot on that cylinder as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 11 minutes ago, tsmitty said: Captain 80s, I mean no disrespect, but i did separate the carburetors. I was taking things apart to put in aluminum fuel and vent tubes and realized I'm like 2 cotter pins away from having the bodies on a work surface. The carbs are so clean the bodies just need a dry brush blow and wipe. I do have some concerns and questions I sure would like opinion and direction from guys that actually do this shit! I'm not sure I understand and I def don't feel disrespected. I knew (well... certainly expected) you were gonna separate the carbs. I just meant going crazy on the carb bodies themselves after separating. Classic pinch / tear on the carb boot from installation. Rear? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 Last Tuesday I was prepping one of my 1986 VFRs as a guest bike for someone from the UK. Primed the carbs and gas waterfall! I was sure I had gone thru them all the way already. Guess not. Apart, new float bowl, fuel and vent orings. Bench synch and back together running in 1 hour. Even did it outside on my sidewalk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 6 minutes ago, Captain 80s said: Bench synch and back together running in 1 hour Saw a pic of the "Guest Bike" on the other forum i think, dude I want to come visit just to ride the bike! Its got infill panels! I'm crying inside right now. As for the carbs, this will take days! Have patience with me. haha Here is what I got so far, all the pics are of the dirty parts. the carbs look flippin clean as is! DynoJet Stage 2 jet kit as you all have seen the air box mod, and with slides drilled correctly. Jets: 124/38 Needles: D/J kit at 3rd. groove down from top (shimmed above and below cir-clip. length of needle extending from bottom of sliders are all +/- .005 to each other) idle/air: 2-1/4 turns I have 2 different sets of Main Jet Holders (Emulsion Tubes) here, 1 set was on 1&4 and the other on 2&3. There is only 1 part number for this year as I can see, so if anyone has any objections it will go back together with the front and rear banks having the matching tubes. I think i said that right... The carbs have quite the back story that my son and I are piecing together I think would be a little too wordy to keep anyones attention... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 Yes, keep the sets of tubes front and rear. You might be able to do some Honda Magna VF-C research and get some guidance on what might make sense for location. They had different tubes front and rear. The RC 24/26 didn't come that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 "The emulsion tubes with the holes furthest from the threads go into the rear, the emulsion tubes with the holes closest to the threads go in the front. This is due to the different mounting angle of the carbs." This does not really apply to the RC24/26 as the carbs front and rear are pretty much at the same angle in relation to the ground. I may have some emulsion tubes if you are interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 4 minutes ago, Captain 80s said: I may have some emulsion tubes if you are interested. Thanks for the offer Captain, I'll put what I have in as you said, I am quite sure I won't know the difference, and that kind of performance edge won't be required for this old girl any more, do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 I don't think the top of the plenum where the lower air box mounts is totally level with the ground (slightly forward?). I would duplicate the Magna placements. Is that how they were? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 29 minutes ago, Captain 80s said: Is that how they were? Yes thats how they were. 1) When I put the carbs back together, should I moisten the rubber with Red Rubber Grease? Vacuum diaphragms too? 2) I'm understanding how the choke pistons seal; I'm not replacing the seals but see where the pistons almost has to be re-seated to its respective seal, is there a procedure for that? 3) On all my slides, the needles are able to be moved to the direction of the vacuum ports slightly with your finger making the needles stick out of the bottom of the slide bottom at an angle without correcting themselves, it takes a slight finger pressure to bring them back perpendicular; is that normal wear? float levels from earlier #1/.365, #2/.360, #3/.380 (don't ask), #4/ .350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 1. I lube up the insulators and then warm them with a heat gun on low (even if new) prior to installing the carbs. Do not introduce anything to the diaphragms. 2. Not exactly sure what you are asking here. Make sure the plungers move freely and completely retract on their own. The linkage is adjustable to have them all start opening at the same time. Be sure to leave some slack on the forked actuators and the plungers so they don't bind. 3. Fairly normal in my experience, but maybe not to that extent. I've taken some carbs apart that had such thick shims they couldn't "float". Hard on the needle jets in my opinion (where the needles slide into). Perhaps the needle setting (was there also a shim under the clip?... can't remember what you said) is pushing the top of the needle a little tight against the top of the holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 58 minutes ago, Captain 80s said: Is that how they were? prob mis read your question...the tubes? no the were at 1 & 4. and that was probably assembly error for not seeing the difference between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 13 minutes ago, Captain 80s said: also a shim under the clip?... can't remember what you said) is pushing the top of the needle a little tight against the top of the holder Yes, .022 or .025 above and below every needle clip same id and od on all of them as well. With the needle/holder in place in the slide and locked, you can push up on all the needles and the preload of the holder spring; as I remember is normal. (does that make sense?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 28 minutes ago, tsmitty said: 1) When I put the carbs back together, should I moisten the rubber with Red Rubber Grease? I do also apply some to the fuel and vent orings before inserting them into the carb bodies to prevent pinching/tearing. You can also use a little dab to keep a float bowl oring in place. Won't harm anything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 6 minutes ago, tsmitty said: Yes, .022 or .025 above and below every needle same id and od on all of them as well. With the needle/holder in place in the slide and locked, you can push up on all the needles and the preload of the holder spring; as I remember is normal. (does that make sense?) Still being able to push up a bit is good, but it may still be a little too much "preload" on the spring. But.... ABOVE the clip too? That makes no sense (if I am understanding correctly). You can use shims under the clip to get halfway between grooves on some needles with the right shim thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 We had to get a new kit and I'm pretty sure I would have changed everything out with new. I just got this from their website.. https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/540/product/2802/ Regardless,if you want that top shim removed, its gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 That's a new one on me. Insurance policy on retaining the clip in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 Or not wanting the spring of the holder to fall down in the void of the cir-clip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tsmitty Posted September 12, 2023 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 so the shim would give less preload travel a than no shim... 2 shims up there to reduce that travel or just move on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Captain 80s Posted September 12, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted September 12, 2023 Just now, tsmitty said: Or not wanting the spring of the holder to fall down in the void of the cir-clip? I don't see how. The springs are wound and bent with flat ends. Strange, but that's how they say they want it I guess. I have never seen that before, but I haven't dealt with DynoJet stuff in over 25 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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