spud786

Larry's vfr motor sheds more metal in 700 miles than my Ktm 50 horse single cylinder dirtbike does, in 800 miles. His pictures are nice though But yes you need a really good filter to catch all that metal from using those thin weight car oils

Stick with oem grade sprockets, like sunstar ect, their specs are going to be a lot tighter than some of these 3rd party guys.

I have not noticed an increase in MPG,)))))))) yes your are talking a couple of tenths of a mile at most or nothing at all, that can be very hard to see. but the amount of metal light weight oils can shed, can easily be seen in a Uoa.

My scorpion battery arrived installed and tested, boy you got the luv the spin of a new ytz14, strong and fast.

You'll have to ditch the T6, if you want to cut the wear metals. like Ive mentioned before t6 is no better than a 10w40 car oil in a motorcycle, and the longest you want to run one of those is about 1500 miles. move to 15w40's or higher then run the 3000 miles range.

Well, last week I mention the battery was at end of life , yesterday, put on my helmet and fuel pump primed, all light on but nada, not enough juice to turn the motor over. Rode my other bike while it was charging, but same battery cant put out enough output to turn the motor over. Also the battery reads 12.9 volt at rest, so you see voltage read doesn't necessarily mean anything with these agms, new scorpion ytz14 is on order.

As long as you can see any air at top of the site glass, its not an issue, you'd have to be way over the top of the site glass to cause an issue, from excess oil.

Hey How bout an update Looks like I bought this scorpion ytz14 battery around September of 2011, while my my mileage has cut way back on the vfr, Ive seen the first signs the scorpion is reaching end of life. charges fine, and haven't use a tender at all. but on start up I detect a hitch of a weaken cell. It hasn't had a clock reset yet on start up, but that's probably going to happen in the not too distant future. Yuasa's normally lasted about 44,000 miles, and back when I was running a lot of mileage that was about 2 1/2 years or so.. I think I only have around 30,000 miles on this scorpion, but battery is going on 4 years. So really I consider that a toss up between years and mileage, between the two. I'll probably just get another scorpion, it seems to be usable and considerably cheaper.

You have a computer , so pull up battery stuff.com. 14,s (yuasa)can be had around $120, the scorpion 14, has been as good as the yuasa, the nuts are cheaper, but for $40 less money, that can be dealt with .

That's all screwed up as far as im concerned for cartridge fork set up, they need to be pumped bled and oil height measured . and anytime you break the seals, best to replace(that's one issue I have with 30 minute oil change(your just risking seal issue). also you don't even have to even separate the forks, just to change oil., you do have to remove the legs, and the top caps and spring. No need to touch bottom fork bolt, unless your doing a complete disassembly.

Valentine one is not immune, the only two window units on the market that are, and the redline and the STI.

The difference between dot 4 and dot 5.1 is only boiling point, they both contaminate over time , Dot 5 doesn't absorb anything, so while the fluid may look good, they doesn't mean your system is, if exposed to condensation.

Haven't seen a picture either, but the owner's manual says that it doesn't display more than 99,999. It only displays an one-digit number (1,2,...) at the right end of the screen showing hundreds thousands miles/kilometers for a while when you turn the key to ON. By the way, I'm at about 54,000 km or 33,560 miles at the moment. NO it flips over at 99,999 goes back to zero, the first 10,000 miles sucks afterwards .G I hear when you first turn the key the true odometer is supposed to show, but never seen it, but normal use it flips at 99.000 back to zero for normal use.

FYi, you don't have to do a total fork dissembly just to change the oil. just remove the cap and the spring dump oil and replace. Meaning you don't have to touch the bottom bolt and separate the fork, but if going to separate the fork, then you want new seals going back in. Wow I replied to a 6 year old thread, who dug this up.

Its hard to make sure all get ridden, cause you normally want to reach for your favorite every ride. The displine is in doing those routine mercy rides on the others. Don't get rid of the vfr though, till your sure its no longer needed, a good vfr can be very difficult to replace, and may not even exist. I would not get rid of mine, cause its everything I need in a street bike, and it would cost me 14 grand to replace it. But its not my favorite bike I look to ride.

Is there anyone out there who has had this noise and just decided to not worry about it? Gradually it will get worse, to where it does it more often, if it just does it shortly after a cold start, and goes away once warm, you just beginning, it will get worse. It not the chain rattling but the tensioner body internals from lack of oil flow. Don't fix the oil flow and noise will come back, sometimes with a brand new tensioner, almost immediately.

Did they break something, how is a coil wire loose, as I recall its a snapin fit, no way to come loose unless tab is broke, None the less they fk'd it up and they had 4 chances with 4 different direct fire coils, to do so. Seems they were only successful at causing one to fail.

From what I hear you need a crows foot wrench and extension. IMO just do the gasket mod, install a new auto tensioner and live happily ever after.

Lazer doesn't work with moving vehicle, so guess that wasn't it, also doesn't work from the side, At least accurately. as far as rear detection ka and k bands , not much an issue within a 1/2 mile, if being fired. My prime riding area lazer is not a big threat, ka band mostly, or kband. Otherwise Id have a cheetah.

Instant on, is like a 6 gun shoot out , if your lucky you'll get a strike a few miles away, so you know something's up . Course if your the only one on the road then its, who has the quickness reflexes. Ive never beaten (instant on) in a vehicle(too much time delay) , have on a bike several times, but Im always 1 finger covered. Course My eyesight degrading doesnt help for the future. More than likely you got hit by lazer, that time you got pulled over. Window units are near worthless, in a vehicle on lazer, and barely usable on a bike, and it still requires lighten reflexes. Most the gps units are single antenna , and they do sacrifice comparatively to a redline , in most situations. I run my STI Bel highway mode all the time, xband off.

The iridium is on the center electrode of the vfr irds, the ground electrode is coated in platinum. They are pregapped, if they need to be gapped replace, doesn't matter whether you believe you can regap successfully. That platinum coating is like butter, and easily damaged. If you want to play the gap game, fine. But Ive ran the irids as high as 56,000 miles on the vfr, with out touching the gap, to where the platinum coating was gone and so was most of the ground electrode, bike still ran flawless. there 's little point in even touching the gap unless its obviously bent or something, and you'll likely just f it up.. Ive done about 4 sets of irids in my vfr , I do carefully check the gap, and even that can damage the coating.

If they touched a gap on an irid, its permanently damaged. the ground electrode is platinum coated, its trashed if you put a tool on it. Id say most mc mechanics would know better

are the radiators getting hot, did the new engine come with a working water pump?

I saw a bike not long ago, cant remember the brand, and it had a magnet to collect debri coming off cam chain (it was fairly good amount of metallic debri attached to that magnet. At the same time Ive seen chain drive bikes with a lot of cam sprocket wear, and some with none. The ones that showed significant wear, were not oem cams sprockets, but aftermarket cam sprockets. I would think a helical cam gear set up, would generated less metal over a tensioned chain set up, atleast there are less moving parts.