spud786

SHHHH! Remember Ethonal is the Greatest thing since sliced Bread

Bent the last time I checked a U.S fuel map, Iowa the Biggest corn Producer, was running standard fuel no e10, they have their cake and eating it too, they dont want that crap either LOL!

I would say VFRCan"s information is quite a bit more researched, accurate and credible than "Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors". Maybe you can explain your process in determining that your Cat and sensors are in perfect working condition. The ultimate is hooking up an exhaust analyzer, this requires running a few tanks of regular to blow out all residual LD snowflakes. Also damaged 02 senser would cause error codes, and flaky operation. Its not my place to debate( i dont care really), someone pointing an encyclopedia results with no practical application is meaningless to me Ive read the stuff too, obviously some prefer unproven snake oil products they really cant tell if its doing anything, My results are far from guessing, its been through internal inspection, valves, Plugs , piston, crowns, exhausts ect or 100's of thousands of miles, including oil analysis, LD powder does show up in the oil. As to those who say e10 is perfect never have any issue, do you know how many different types of pump e10 fuels are in Canada? I can say there are atleast a dosen different formulations of e10 from state to state in the U.S., some of the worst in California and some of the oxegenated in the far North. Point is there are e10's out there some better than others, Personally I just dont want the crap.

All it takes is a flash light in the Tail pipe to prove, post a picture >G

Its not the design, its the fuel degrading if not used, if e10 sits. It will turn brown within a month. Its more fuel becoming stale than lack of design Ive had alot of trouble with anything that doesnt see alot of use, doesnt matter if Auto, weedeater or other. I havent had any bike issues with e10, cause it runs multi tanks per week, plus its not on 100% e10 so it doesnt have all the carbon buildup issues either, that enthonal has. I had a bike one time, there was a screen in the muffler that was supposed to be cleaned every 11,000 miles. I checked it and yep, going to have to clean it, full of black carbon. half tank of leaded race fuel , you could eat off the metal it was so clean afterwards. Course Thats too much for a Catted MC but a cup or two on regular bases there is no soot at all in your exhaust, because the LRFuel eats carbon like crazy. Even the plugs I ran 53,000 miles where totally carbonless, but totally shot from electrical wear. But Im much aware of Internet negative cat ,02 and Lead information, But as far as what I use , they know their A$$ from hole, Ive got several hundred thousand miles on the stuff, and pushing 100,000 mile on the VFR alone CAT and 02'd. But there's no snake oil on the shelve that offeres the benefits of VPc12. But I know alot of people really believe in that greasy Kerosene they call Marvel mistery oil. Most o2's and cats stop working cause they get plugged up with carbon, thats the real death to those. On a side note, Nascar band Lead use a couple years ago, they started having alot of engine failures so they allowed it back. I'll put my motor up against anyones with the same milege, and I guarantee mine will be far more pristine in wear and internal cleaniliness from fuel pump to tail pipe.

I have been running Ethanol blended fuel in my 800 ever since I bought it, 12 years and 80,000 kilometers ago, with no ill effects to the fuel injection system or engine itself. ive seen horrible effects in all my lawnmowers , weedeaters and blowers from ethonal fuel, ethonal attacks rubber(gas leaks). and when it absorbs water which is what e10 is good for, then Performance goes to Crap. The gas goes stale %75 faster.

Canook Yeah Tell my 100,000 mile working Cat and 02 sensors, been using since a vfr Baby You better find some better info.

Two words Leaded Race fuel, it offers Real results, completely decarbonises, Piston crowns, Valves , exhaust o2 sensors , Cat , tail pipes, lubricates fuel pumps and valve seat. cylinder walls ect . Cup or 2 pertank.

I couldnt take the stock seat anymore after 20,000 miles, so I made some cushioning, much improvement over stock, but I know exactly what I need in the seat to make it right. The stock seat is too short in height(for seat to peg) and it has right angles in the crotch area, and the down angle is a bit too steep. Ive not found anything premade that adresses all these issues, so customization is really the only way. Really, I could put some foam under the stock foam, raising the seat height, and just shave down the Right angles in the crotch area on the stock foam and it would probably be great.

How much cheaper is it just to use your own base pan? Im thinking some day I might just ride through Florida and stop at sargeant, for customization. But with the bike nearing 100,000 miles, I dont know if I want to spend the money, unlesss only $150.

The reason mobil1 shifts better, is because rotella has a fimer clutch grip and mobil1 has less grip, so it shifts smoother , rotella 15w40 is the worst shifting oil Ive ever ran, notchy as all get out, the T6 is okay atleast better then the rotella 15w40. There's only about a 5% to 10% gain between the worst shift oil and the best, but it can be a GATE or NO GATE transition, or pass or fail if you will. If you really want to try very smooth shifting oils, try Maxima 4 extra, or motul 15w50 , they have moly in them which benifits transmission smoothness, but they arent cheap.

Only the original 02 models, need a Rotor, all newer models already have the Newest flywheel/rotor. How many miles are on you 06 at stator failure?

Does the 5th gen run Irids, I thought Irids were spec'd in applications that use less voltage to fire the plug? maybe that has an effect with resistances used in the coils?

Lots of times you may see a deer crossing , cant assume thats all is there is, there can be delayed stragglers too in a full Jaunt, unless there's good easement to view and rule out, take hede.

Could all the metals have settled out of the oil, Ive never seen a used oil sample show no metal at all, try a Hot drain.

Lead was 20 ppm on both oils Flash on rotella was 385 and not 360 the rottella sus vicosity 62.7

I dont presently have a camara or camera phone , and I thought I might have one stashed on photbucket, but no dice. so here's the numbers from Blackstone Your motor is showing High Lead in the oil, probably , which may be due to Racing. (next round, I told the its from leaded race fuel, they were relieved LOL!) amsoil 15w40 1900 mile on oil Rotella 5w40 1100 miles on oil alumi 8 alum 6 iron 9 iron 7 copper 1 copper 1 tin 1 tin 1 moly 3 moly 6 boron 1 boron 0 silicon 3 silcon 4 sodium 4 sodium 6 cacium 3170 calcium 2670 magneisum 8 mag 7 phos 1065 phos 1003 zinc 1289 zinc 1150 flash 370 flash 360 sus vis 62.9 insolubals .1 thats all i have its 5 years ago when I did this, miles on bike on both oils under 8,000 miles

How did you determine your oil lost a full grade in 1100 miles??? Through oil analysis, I saw alot of oil degrade in the first 7,000 miles which was kinda shocking to me, I was running about 1100 mile intervals,becuse of this. I did the analysis to verify what my eye was seeing ,on my oil dumps. BTW all my oil dumps are after multihoured runs, drained HOT The first analysis was on Rotella 5w40 synthetic, and the second was on Amsoil 15w40 diesil, the amsoil held up alot better and more than double the distance with identical wear numbers and oil degrade over the Rotella.

It was on a DRZ400, 5w40 group4 PAO (2,000 mile max interval) street, I didnt mic the cam, cause it didnt matter to me at the time, bike still worked good, but the lobe wear was obvious(and I noted it first at 25,000 miles(3rd check), it was worse by 40,000 , and I checked the valves on it atleast 4 or 5 times in the 40,000 mile I owned it. 10,000 Rpm redline, Alot of sustained 8 to 9,500 rpm riding. I just fiquere, if a 5w40 Pure PAO cant quelch that wear, definitely dont want lower . On a side note My vfr 5w40 Rotella loses a full Grade by 1100 miles, I broke the bike in on that the first 7,000 miles. But I run heavier stuff since that time. I always found more oil stays on the lobes with a thicker oil than thin oil during shut down time.

Negative... synthetic oil does not accelerate failure... syn oil cools and prolongs our clutches... if you wish to note accelerated failure take it to the drag strip or race track... Nobody said synthetic oil accelerates faiilure, I said MB rated oil like your ow30 mobil1 doesnt meet the MA clutch friction gate, While there is moly agents in some mc oils, Ive only had issue with Redline MB rated oil with 700 ppm Moly. Theres one thing analysis doesnt show , the Base Oil slickness , the anals only show only the additives, but Low weight energy efficient oils are going to be full of Polymers strands. Ive ran real synthetic , not the group 3 mobile one stuff, in 5 w40 weight Group 4 PAO oil and obvious cam lobe wear within 30,000 miles , in a 4,000 pm car okay, but a 12,000 rpm bike, ow30 is thin stuff.

10w30 will actually be thicker than straight 30 weight at full temperature, There's no polymers in straight 30 weight to Hold the viscosity, straight 30 weight, the hotter it gets the thinner it gets, damn near water, on a hot drain. Ive never seen a 10w30 with Polymers thin that much, Polymers is what maintains the visosity in mutigrades, as it heats, and multigrade group 2 and 3 oils have alot polymers, Now they say Polymers by themselves arent very good at lubricatiing. so is a thicker 10w30 at full temp with polymers, more protective than a thinner straight 30 weight with no polymers? Idont now but I can tell you stright 30 weight scared the Livin chit out of me, it was so thin, it drained in 30 seconds and not a drip afterwards PURE WATER!!!!!

The strongest clutch oil Ive used is Rotella 15w40, I hate the stuff, its clutch action is so strong, Notchy as Hell shifting. But it and Both Rotella 5w40 offer good clutch life. The key to clutch Life is Clean oil, and good oil grip. Particulate will eat clutch fibers. Ive been running Delo 15w40 for the last 30,000 miles, it was great grip , fairly cheap, and usable. If I had to runan oil for 4 to 8,000 mile, it would be Mobil1 Vtwin 20w50, but for the Longevity Bros, frequent oil changes is the best method to reduce particulate damage.

Ive gotten over 90,000 miles on good clutch oil and expect a whole lot more , wonder when it would have failed with bad clutch oil , like MB rated Mobil 1 products? I did once run Mobil 1 High milege 10w40, it was much slippery clutch oil, I litterally had to adjust my riding for it, not really out right slipping, but you could tell less bite in certain corner entry clutch action, too much freewheel, not enough drag. That was a direct Lack of clutch friction, even though I didnt experience out right slipping under acceleration, at some point though Im sure the MB1 will accelerate failure long before a Good clutch oil.

There can be a 5% difference in shift feel amongst oils, the less Grip an oil has on the clutch, the Slicker the tranny will shift.

How many miles per year do you ride? bout 15 to 20,000 mile in slow years, higher in better years. Once the bike has 15,000 mile filter runs very clean, my 06 vfr has over 90,000 miles.