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RC36B

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About RC36B

  • Rank
    Sport Tourer
  • Birthday 11/21/1963

Profile Information

  • Location
    Copenhagen, Denmark
  • In My Garage:
    VFR 750FT (RC36/2),
    Nimbus Type C

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  1. I tested flow rate of that fuel pump again - and I still get 2000-2200 cc/min! Usually a broken/bad pump is low flow or no flow - so this situation is new to me with too much flow. Is it a potential problem just waiting to happen with this pump? About that one carbs that appears to lower the fuel level due to wrong position of float - could that explain sudden loss of most of the acceleration that have happened a few time. Talking about fuel level in the bowls - how much tolerance is realistic up and down of the 13.7 mm specified in the service manual? Would it be best be to source another carb or a complete carb assembly - or dont worry about it?
  2. 1. Flow rate, fuel pump: Must have messed up time or something - I got 2216 cc/min. I will run that test again as that number appears quite high compared to the 900 cc. I think the number may also high because my tank is full. 2. Contact point, fuel pump; check and fix: They looked fine (much cleaner and almost no dust compared to above pictures - I did not have my macro, so no picture). Filed, cleaned and tested. 3. Float levels as they sit in each carb I found that one carb must have a manufacturing error. The height from axle to bottom of brass seat is about 1 mm less compared to the other carbs (see picture of a good one). The brass seat is slightly raised on the "bad" seat. That gave that float a wrong height of about 1.5-2 mm (less fuel). I wonder if 2 mm less fuel is enough to get the main jet dry?? If that is the case, then the slow-jet should also have been "lean" - I don't recall any problems adjusting the pilot-screw back in the spring. What would you do - get another carb or give the float som heat to make it fit correctly?? 4. Electrical connectors from fuel pump all the way to the pickup; check and clean Cleaned (no visible corrosion found)
  3. Dutchy - thank you; great pictures. I assume this is part of the pressure switch. I have never taken this fuel pump apart and my mind does not quite grasp how pressure is "transferred" to this switch... I guess it make sense once I take it apart. Squirrelman - great. I went reading again - this time with stern focus on details. I'm a little embarrassed - service manual page 19-23 (61MZ700). In my book it reads 900 cc/min or 30.4 US oz/min. My rough estimate is this engine can't consume more than 395 cc/min, so 800 or 900 cc/min does not make any difference at all. I'm not too thrilled about permanently bypassing the fuel relay... but I do see how this would rule out 1) pickup, 2) CDI, 3) fuel relay and 4) bad connections. Well, more correctly, a problem with one those 4 issues would not escalate into a fuel delivery problem. Checklist for now is: 1. Flow rate, fuel pump 2. Contact point, fuel pump; check and fix 3. Float levels as they sit in each carb 4. Electrical connectors from fuel pump all the way to the pickup; check and clean Btw - the drawing on page 19-23 is wrong - filter is upstream of pump 🙂 Or do I need a new brain?
  4. The pump does work - tested with a short and empty bowls; clicks steadily until bowls are full. I just realise one flaw with my test - I did not test the relay. I should have put my reasons 🙂 A few times (maybe 2-3 during last 12 months, I experienced abrupt power loss (it still accelleration - but its like you switch off x procent power at once) during hard acceleration at about 7-8000 RPM. I'm not able to duplicate it, so I'm somewhat in the dark. I assume it also could be a rarely sticking float too... Earlier this year I cleaned the carbs - jets (boiled in mild vinegar), o-rings changed, new float valves, checked the air-cut-off valves (changed two with cracked o-ring), checked vacuum pistons+needle, cleaned SE (that really helped). Float heights checked (I used one carb to test all floats; now thinking about that approach I realise it assumes all carbs to be totally alike, but as floats are NOT adjustable, I guess that might be ok). Even though everything looked pretty clean before idle is now sooo smooth at 1000 RPM (after a sync and adjusting pilots; pilots NOT adjusted lean of peak - I adjust to about peak). All jets and needles are stock. As the power loss have accrued again my carbs clean is either a bad job or not the problem. So that is why I though next step would be fuel delivery. Flow rate would have been nice - that could clear tank strainer, fuel filter (about 1 year) and pump.
  5. Hi, I have been through my Honda VFR 750 Service Manual (1997) as well as Clymer - can't finde any information about flow rate for the fuel pump. Do I need glasses or is it just not there? In any case, the actual number (or reference) would be very much appreciated.
  6. Nope - for the center stand, you are right. And for screws, I found out that most screws still ship from Honda in that "odd-greenish-black" finish... Thanks 🙂
  7. Great and thanks for the suggestion about vsource.org - I will do that 🙂 Well - I dont think the color of things like screws and center-stand would depend on the color of the bike (too complicated from a logistics point of view). The sticker under the seat is intact but - as far as I know - only gives the "bike-color".
  8. My plan is to get my center-stand off the the old VFR 750 ('96), blast it and give it a new code of paint. But what is the color? Screws, bolts, center-stand, side-stand etc is a "kind-of-black" - a very very dark green. I have searched the internet for a color code - no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction - or even better, have the color code?
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