RC36B

The gears - once removed - will relax in a “neutral” un-tensioned position, which is about half a tooth off. So the answer is “no” - you are imagining a problem which does not exist 😉 So when torqued down Newton's third law takes care of the gears final position. You need to check timing marks AFTER torqued (especially for front cams). If you look at below photo you can see the geometry only will allow for aligning gears in one direction... the gear from the cassette only fits the wide slot.

The gears are stamped so no problem. Even if you removed all cams and got lost on position, the shop manual have an easy to follow procedure (shop manual 61MZ700 from page 8-21 (Camshaft installation) onwards). Cams have both "marks" (line) and "arrows" - Honda use the "marks" for the rear cylinders and arrows for the front cylinders.

Both fantastic engines! But.... No ideal engine exist - they are all compromises. Yes, a 90 degree V4 have perfect primary balance and therefore no need for a balance shaft. It suffers from uneven firing order (how depends on crank), takes up lots of real estate longitudinally etc. Depending of the application pros and cons can swap. Honda claims it was an advantage to have a piston moving at all times averaging torque better to the rear wheel and accepted to live with uneven pulses of combustion torque (one of several claims) - is it important for a 300 hp track bike - does it matter as much for a 100 hp VFR 800? And my final comment - how much is because manufacturers are playing us with marketing USP’s... 😉 For example the Honda’s super complicated V4 4 stroke NR 500 - did not make sense from an engineering/competition point of view? No, but could have boosted marketing’s case for 4 strokes

Yes, he really did! He says he always forget if the rear wheel sensor is for ABS or speedo... It does not appear as getting the facts right (from the shop manual) is something he is concerned about... I'm surprised he get so much good feedback...

At 9:30 in the morning!!! Your system gotta be covered in stainless steel sheets on the inside 🙂 I'm not sure I consider that a reward this early in the morning

A new and revolutionary concept... you know the asphalt gripping trail-tire for trail braking a sportsbike into corners using the rear... 🤣 It's so new only this dude knows about it...

I'm not sure I would want to ride anything this dude put together... Good one! I left you a like on YouTube for your thoughtfulness 🙂 But you need to pick up the pace if you want to save this guy... my imagination does not leave me with any good feeling for the bigger changes coming up...

Not by choice - by necessity! When the old bike have let you down and left you on the shoulder for a couple of times, you retreat to the study and get wiser 🙂 Shout if you want a couple of links / information about 1) mechanical rectifying, 2) electromechanical voltage regulation / alternatives and 3) "budget constraints" workarounds. Voltage regulator for Gilera Sport (6 volt DC). Very condensed checklist: File / clean contacts INSIDE regulator before first start - check voltage before after engine start (at medium rpm voltage higher than battery voltage tho never higher than 7.2 volts).

Nice! You have a dc dynamo with electromechanical regulation 👍😊 On terminal 51 I assume you should have 6,5-7 volts DC (medium rpm and no lights on). I don’t know this system but would not suggest an additional USB charger 😆. I think power is 30 Watts. Rectification is purely mechanical (no diode or other fancy electronics) - the commutator "turn" direction of current. The regulator must be in the hole to the left - includes electromagnets and its own contact point. These systems can be tough on batteries and bulbs as voltage varying widely. A modern regulator makes a hell of a difference and makes a 6 volt system perform fantastic. Of course you still have ignition contact point and mechanical advancer... 👌

The USAF North American XB-70 Valkyrie 🙂 The Valkyrie was a rather sad story... but an amazing project...

So assume a 6V DC dynamo 🙂 Are you going to use the old electro-mechanical voltage regulator or are you hiding a modern silicon based regulator inside an old housing? I have to admit I cheat - I don't like parking roadside with no more juice on the battery 🙂

Well, by your logic, then you don't have a problem because their is no error code. 🙂 I think you need to turn the problem upside down - even you don't have an error code, it is clear you have a problem. A sensor can fail so that it is not detected, a short somewhere etc. So everything is a "suspect"! Air leaks would be high on my list - it has already been suggested and you ruled it out. From you description it appears as the ECU does not adjust idle at all - as indicated by engine revving even higher when engine is warm.

Could this be missing/faulty engine temperature sensor resulting in mis-adjusted idle?

Yes - sad... a chapter in history have been closed! I think this is part of a larger problem... I think bikes are very different in 10 years - if we like it or not does not really matter... electric motors are on the horizon and soon we (and our gas guzzling VFR's) are relics of the past 😞

Not really Honda's fault... if customers aren't buying V4's then Honda can't continue building... So, we, the customers are the ones to blame!