RC36B

Perfect 🙂 Yeah - I use an Excel spreadsheet that reuse shims (priority is something like 1. on same cam, 2. on adjacent cam and 3. other cams) to get best gap and lowest number of new shims. Removed shims is automatically moved to stock so they may be used next time further reducing new shims. Of course I still need to measure correctly 🙂

It would be smart to measure the rest for two reasons: - You might not need new shims - It is easier next time; no need to remove cams to order new shims When you get the new shims and replace, then I would measure the remaining shims

You have valves out of spec and now you know... their is no going back now 🙂 You don't need to remove the radiator - remove the bolt on the left-hand side securing the bracket on the engine and swing radiator forward. Secure radiator in forward position with rope. The Honda service manual is very clear with good pictures. Take your time with the timing marks and rotate the crank a couple of times to get the hang of it. Remember, their is a first for everything... 🙂

Winter is coming up so time to take a better look at that carb. If seat is secure and the loctite seal the seat I will leave it is as is.

Yep - same feeling watching that "no fuel" video. That little black Peugeot was a pain - I guess overtaking while coasting would have been stretching it 🙂 It is funny, as a Dane I can actually read a little Dutch and as I could read some of your descriptions, I would suggest Flemish? (forget trying to listen to it; it is like its pronounced in reverse or something odd - you and the Dutch must have a seriously malfunctioning tongue or some other common birth defect). Just a question - does the gearbox get lubricated when engine not running and therefore no pressurised oil to bearings etc? I'm not sure it does...

Nice 🙂 I tried something similar in New Mexico in the mountains north of Albuquerque some 30 years ago after a visit to a ranch. Not on a bike, but in a FWD. I was so low in fuel when I finally found the road going south to Albuquerque... but that road (with asphalt) was some kind of civilisation. No mobile, no GPS, no proper clothing for the temperature, nobody to ask for directions and very little fuel. I never felt so alone. I wish I remember where exactly, but I forgot.

To be honest, I only noticed because I always make the same interpretation mistake and start throwing tools because I can't find that stupid GREEN wire - which of course is GRAY!

I assume a small typo... it should be the Gray/Red wire 🙂

I solved the color change and patchy problem in a rather cruel way - spayed them with black paint a couple of times. As they are assumed to outlast the bike I don't really care about the problem having to redo a single LED again.

Always something making life a bitch 🙂 You don't have a sandbox or something to test patches before committing to production?

I found the wiring diagram. Not really possible to tell from the diagram if ECT includes a bulb test but looking at the sensor, I seriously doubt it. Also, from reading the user manual, other warning lights include information that light go on when ignition is turned on. That information is not noted for the high temp light.

Do we have a wiring diagram of the 7th gen?

As a pilot I got to say any last ditch system is worth nothing if operation can't be verified (like the 737 MAX). In that case it only adds false sense of security. I know, it's not a aircraft you crash but to me not crashing the engine is kind of important 🙂. On my old 4th gen, the low fuel level light is checked when ignition is turned on (note, only a bulb check - not a system check) - I would really be unhappy if that was not the case as I'm sure I would have ended on the side of the road on several occasions.

Yeah - looks like mine... bummer! Have you torqued this by feel or with a torque wrench?