RC36B

Not by choice - by necessity! When the old bike have let you down and left you on the shoulder for a couple of times, you retreat to the study and get wiser 🙂 Shout if you want a couple of links / information about 1) mechanical rectifying, 2) electromechanical voltage regulation / alternatives and 3) "budget constraints" workarounds. Voltage regulator for Gilera Sport (6 volt DC). Very condensed checklist: File / clean contacts INSIDE regulator before first start - check voltage before after engine start (at medium rpm voltage higher than battery voltage tho never higher than 7.2 volts).

Nice! You have a dc dynamo with electromechanical regulation 👍😊 On terminal 51 I assume you should have 6,5-7 volts DC (medium rpm and no lights on). I don’t know this system but would not suggest an additional USB charger 😆. I think power is 30 Watts. Rectification is purely mechanical (no diode or other fancy electronics) - the commutator "turn" direction of current. The regulator must be in the hole to the left - includes electromagnets and its own contact point. These systems can be tough on batteries and bulbs as voltage varying widely. A modern regulator makes a hell of a difference and makes a 6 volt system perform fantastic. Of course you still have ignition contact point and mechanical advancer... 👌

The USAF North American XB-70 Valkyrie 🙂 The Valkyrie was a rather sad story... but an amazing project...

So assume a 6V DC dynamo 🙂 Are you going to use the old electro-mechanical voltage regulator or are you hiding a modern silicon based regulator inside an old housing? I have to admit I cheat - I don't like parking roadside with no more juice on the battery 🙂

Well, by your logic, then you don't have a problem because their is no error code. 🙂 I think you need to turn the problem upside down - even you don't have an error code, it is clear you have a problem. A sensor can fail so that it is not detected, a short somewhere etc. So everything is a "suspect"! Air leaks would be high on my list - it has already been suggested and you ruled it out. From you description it appears as the ECU does not adjust idle at all - as indicated by engine revving even higher when engine is warm.

Could this be missing/faulty engine temperature sensor resulting in mis-adjusted idle?

Yes - sad... a chapter in history have been closed! I think this is part of a larger problem... I think bikes are very different in 10 years - if we like it or not does not really matter... electric motors are on the horizon and soon we (and our gas guzzling VFR's) are relics of the past 😞

Not really Honda's fault... if customers aren't buying V4's then Honda can't continue building... So, we, the customers are the ones to blame!

Right, you already passed our tallest mountains (about 173 meters) a couple of times in that video. I think it does say Spain in one of the other videos from "FLASH FLASH".

Who would worry about the garage floor with a new VFR on your hands... roads are calling... the dust not going anywhere anyway Welcome and congratulations with the new bike 🙂

An accomplice in crime...?

Yeah... the ECU is kind of primitive - the "choke" lever or the later vax-unit is ridiculous. Should have been a servo controlled by the ECU. The ECU already have sensors (coolant temp, crank sensor, MAP etc) to decide on idle. I never understood why Honda chose a solution which didn't use components already there. The doner engine looks like a nightmare you fished out of the harbour - how did you win the battle getting the engine to look that good?

I'm definitely getting too old or simply too lazy to replace mirrors and peg wear bolts... Of course, the chance is I'm too much of a chicken as well 🙂

Congratulations with the new bike. So why are you hiding photos of the beauty - we want to see and critique 🙂 Hope you are well clear of the fires - guess the western part is not the worst place to be... Planet Earth is not entirely well 😞

And different switch left side (no choke)