VideoGuy

Tell your buddy to learn to pan his camera with the moving object. Takes practice, but gives superior results.

Been there, done that between Brooklyn, NY Queens NY, and Newark NJ I had to replace 3 ignition locks to the infamous dent puller. It seems at least Honda's design lets you slip a screwdriver into the hole that's left, and engage the switch to unlock the forks and start the bike. Only saved all 3 times by having the bike locked up to a light pole with Cobra Links, which I don't think they make anymore.

No problem with mid length Delkevic here either. No difference in running from stock.

Somebody here was making 3D printed ones too, can't remember who but it wasn't that long ago.

Why not? The chock I use simply holds the wheel upright by gripping the tire on the bottom and front, the forks are still free to move on the axle to allow them to align.

Ah, I park the bike in a front wheel chock in my garage, so I don't have to do anything to stop the wheel from moving. Thought there might be some mystery use for a wedge!

How does that work?

All I can add is my axle is almost exactly the way it's pictured in the OP's post. SLIGHTLY inside the edge of the fork casting. Haven't had any problems!

I'm the person that started the thread on the other forum. I had some concerns after having a shop mount new tires for me, and after looking at what's going on down there you can see the axle has a chamfered edge on the left that when tightened pushes all the moving parts together to the specified torque from the axle nut. All the pinch bolts do is fix the axle-wheel-spacer assembly to the fork. The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. So if you have some play, that would be normal given the minor tolerances in the sliders and bushings. https://vfrworld.com/threads/front-wheel-spacers.58785/#post-619785

Orientation doesn't matter on 8th gen, but does on 6th, so be careful.

Grum is right again. Checked parts fiches, the 8th gen uses identical spacers left and right, got confused by 6th gen. Checked direction of wheel and tire, both are correct. Re-did everything, axle, torquing, bouncing forks, still the same space on left. When I blow up photo from Grum and compare it to mine, the gap is almost identical, so I'll have to say all is well!

Just had tires changed by a local shop on my 8th gen. Noticed the left side spacer on the front has a small gap between it and the fork leg while the right side doesn't. Is this normal and acceptable? Did the re-alignment drill, but it had no effect on the gap.

Had almost same thing as previous poster, except I got a warning in the form of little chunks of rubber hitting my faceshield. After a couple of seconds I realized that wasn't gravel, saw the smoke start from the tractor trailer in the other lane about 30ft in front of me, changed lanes just in time to avoid a 4 foot chunk of tire take the space I was in seconds before. Sure at 70mph I wouldn't have made it. Then about a month later on the same stretch of highway, I was about 8 car lenghts behind a pickup towing a U-Haul, remembered the tire incident and moved two lanes over. Seconds later the trailer started to wobble, swish back and forth and flip over. Glad I wasn't behind it. Two things I avoid at all cost now.

Thought I read here somewhere you only really needed to take off the left lower, not the right too. Am I crazy ?

From what I found, designed and made in AU. Big sales pitch on e-bay.au. No personal experience.

How are you changing the front on a standard 8th gen? New springs and gold valves?

Yep, Motopumps has 3 heights. Lowest is same as Honda OEM, then tallest is 1.25 inches, which is what I did. Way more comfortable than stock with no handling penalty, at least on the street.

Problem with lowering your seat is it makes your knees bend more than they do already. Unfortunately after knee replacement and back surgery, keeping the seat high and going with the tallest Motopumps was the best solution for me. May even get lower footpegs in the near future.

Added the tall Motopumps risers to my '15 with no handling penalty at all, and a big comfort boost. Don't even need to change cables or hoses.

Just wondering.... if the Lithium batteries require different chargers, how is it ok to use them in a bike with a "standard" charging system? Both are basically applying the same kind of charge, if you use a battery tender or other smart charger.

Wasn't trying to be harsh, just a correction. I find a shop rag sprayed with WD-40 works great on the wheels for removing most road and chain splatter. Also seems to leave an invisible film that makes it easier to get the junk off next time. Have to admit, never used it to clean a chain.

False! https://www.motorcyclistonline.com/mc-garage-video-will-wd-40-destroy-your-motorcycle-chain-o-rings

Just looked in entire downloads section, nowhere to be found. Where else would it be?

Acetone is the thinner of choice for crazy glue, but can't say if it will harm finish on triple clamps. Try at your own risk!

Want to elaborate? How would you do it? Any pix? Thanks.