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  • Location
    Southwest Pennsylvania, USA
  • In My Garage:
    2014 Honda VFR, 2008 Simplicity Broadmore, 2016 Hyundai Genesis G80 AWD, 2021 Hyundau Palisade

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thestumper's Achievements


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  1. I installed my Delkevic with the baffle removed, so I didn't appreciate the difference until I popped it back in. Without it, It sounded great at first, but on a long ride the drone would start to get annoying. I was surprised at how much difference the 'spud' made when on the bike. I still sounds good off the bike, but appears much less fatiguing on the bike with the helmet on at speed. Need to go on a longer ride to really get a good sense of it.
  2. Put the "spud" (DbKiller) back into my Delkevic exhaust. As much as I liked the sound, it was just too loud. It still sounds good, but it's lost that "punch you in the gut" immediacy it had. Definitely better than stock, but not as compelling as the full-on brutality of an uncorked system. At least now I don't have to roll down hill with the clutch full in to avoid too much attention at 7:00 AM.
  3. Put Tank Slapper film on the tank for some paint protection. A complete PITA. I've applied them before and never had any issue, but I'm not convinced the cut outs were specific to the 2014 model year. In the past, I just used a credit card and my fingers for smoothing - this time after a couple of failed attempts I had to break down and get one of those detailer squeegees. It worked for the back part of the tank, but doesn't look as glass-smooth as previous installations. I don't know if I will even attempt the side tank panels - they don't seem to line up with anything without going under trim pieces or overlapping the rear tank piece. The rear is the important one - at I least that's on and hopefully it sticks.
  4. There is anecdotal evidence to suggest he/she was a large person..... 🙂 As is the key in all thing mechanical, it's usually down to having the right tools. Sometimes I sucks at that....
  5. That's what I did - added an extension (piece of left-over pipe) to break it. Just seemed oddly tight. Access is indeed good but I don't have a key like that - I had to use a hex bit and a socket wrench, which was really tight. Did that come in the tool kit, per chance? Might be good to pick one up on the cheap...
  6. Funny - I just re-installed the collars. I had removed them for a while, but I'm trying to get as much "knee relief" as possible and I'm more comfortable with the bike at this point. Trying to avoid peg lowering blocks if I can, but not sure this will make enough of a difference. Note: Is it just me getting older and being feeble, or are those screws that hold the adjustable bracket hard to get out? They seem super tight, and getting the right leverage on them is tough even with extenders and good quality bits.
  7. Late to the party here but I like this particular video on the subject - there are quite a few. The older I get, the harder it becomes to constantly push myself out of the seat constantly over the course of a long day of riding hard. I don't so much "hang off" these days as much as "scoot a cheek". It's more of a slide if anything but I never lose contact with the seat. As the video below suggests, it's more about the upper body and head position. This guy also does some good videos on trail braking, which I have also used to reduce my lean angles. I find my 2014 VFR to require more "incentive" to get it transitioning into and between corners - at least compared to my R1, but even my older Sprint ST's felt more agile. I find myself using my outside leg and arm for leverage more - again this video covers some of that as well and underscores some of the differences at the track.
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