JZH

I've been a VFR forum participant long enough to see this particular scenario play out more than once. Model-specific sub forums are great for sharing model-specific information and problems, but they also facilitate the formation of little cliques (especially regarding the "latest" generation, for some reason). That's life! Ciao,

Maybe, but what was Corbin's excuse, then? I have a yellow Smuggler seat cowl, and the gaps are frankly embarrassing... Ciao,

You're sure not slouching around this year! The Elefantentreffen is next weekend in Thurmansbang... Ciao,

You're right, they're not very common, and definitely not cheap, but eBay (UK) Item No. 332518409609 is still showing as available... A mere 268 of our Brexit-lightened pounds and it's yours in a week to ten days. (No, it's not mine!) Ciao,

There aren't any 75mm ID Honda brake discs (you may be referring to the PCD, but that's not how these are discussed), but that's not important if you want to fit the RC36-II wheel. Your SC44 front end has 214mm fork spacing, a 25mm OD axle 193mm (+42mm) long, 25x47x12mm bearings, huge 330mm OD discs with 94mm ID and 12.5mm offset. The RC36-II was different: 192mm fork spacing, a 20mm OD axle 186mm (+ 50mm) long, 20x42x10mm bearings, 296mm OD discs with 58mm ID and 17mm offset. So, the SC44 front end was much wider, but the axle may be your biggest problem. (There is a reason people use the RC51 SP1 front wheel on conversions--it fits!) If you could get 25x42x10mm bearings, great, but I don't think you can. (Actually, I did find some that might work: 6905 thin-section deep-groove ball bearings are 25x42x9mm. They are 1mm too narrow, but you're probably in custom spacer territory anyway.) The next problem is discs, and you've either got to account for the 7mm or 17mm difference in hub width (the RC36-II hub is 100mm wide, but I don't know the SC44 hub width. It is probably 107mm or 117mm.), as well as the different offset. There aren't a lot of different offsets for 58mm discs, just the OEM 17mm and 21.5mm (used on the RC45 and the CBR1100XX), but spacers can be machined. The OD on those discs is 310mm, so your calipers might not bite the entire surface of them--worth checking. I have more data, if you need it, but you're going to have to do the measuring and the maths! Ciao,

Aftermarket springs aren't especially expensive, but whilst an aftermarket one would fit, the shock valving and the length and stroke probably wouldn't be suitable for a VFR. Ciao,

I've found the adhesive weakens after a while, so you might have to do something to keep the edges in place later. Ciao,

I could make that line, so I'm sure HEL can! Ciao,

The recent 5th gen COP thread revival caught my eye, so I thought I would update this thread as well. I have not yet tested anything with a running engine, so the "resistor question" will have to wait for a while, yet... As far as physical fitness goes, as mentioned in August, I did acquire a nice set of '08 CBR1000RR Denso 5150 COPs from eBay US (where they were "cheap, cheap, cheap", as Johnny, Mark, Denny and Peter might say), and these are just slightly shorter than the R6 Mitsus pictured above. However, after some more fiddling around with them and the Mitsu grommets, I think I can use the 5150s after all. They fit the spark plugs perfectly and appear to clear my radiator. There are two obvious issues, however. First, the Mitsu grommet ID is larger than the Denso COP OD, perhaps by 1-1.5mm, so the grommets don't really seal. That could be addressed by wrapping the COPs with some sort of thin shim material, or even adhesive tape. (Or maybe yet another use for large diameter polyolefin heat shrink tubing? Yes, I like that idea.) The other problem is that the grommet doesn't quite butt up against the head of the COP when crammed into the RC36 valve cover (as in the picture above), so in theory the grommet could work itself free of the valve cover unless it is somehow prevented from doing so. To take up the space, I think I could just fit an appropriately sized o-ring. Job done! [EDIT: How about heat shrink tubing shrunk over an o-ring, thus creating a rather OEM-like ridge for the Mitsu grommet to fit to?] But, this only works because I happen to have purchased a bunch of parts, including a full set of 5150s as well as a full set of Mitsubishi COPS, so I have four "extra" Mitsu grommets to use. Anyone else would have to buy two full sets of COPs in order to get one hybrid set to use on their RC36. OTOH, full sets of COPs seem to be plentiful and not expensive on eBay at the moment. Note also that a 3rd gen running OEM fairings will still require the use of two of the bike's OEM coil brackets, because the side fairings mount onto them, so the most aesthetic benefit from fitting COPS would be to bikes not utilising OEM fairings. Ciao,

4800 is what I would call a "long" COP with an external grommet. Used on GSXR750 (06-07), GSXR600 (01-03), Yamaha XV1600. Other long COPs with external grommets include: 5100 (also GSXR750 06-07?), 5140 (GSXR750 11-16) and 5230 (GSXR750 08-11). I'm curious how Stray is going to seal his COPs... All of the Honda COPs seem to be internally sealed, which means that the seal depends on the valve cover having a smaller orifice than I believe VFR valve covers have. All of the externally sealed COPs I've tried on my 3rd gen do not really fit correctly, but VFROZ did mention that some trimming is required. I've also tried swapping grommets between different COPs, but that wasn't much help. (FYI, the 3rd gen cannot use the long COPs--it needs shorter ones to clear the radiator, but the only short ones I've found that had external grommets were on the Yamaha R6 ca. 2002.) Ciao,

Suzuki also use Denso COPs (like Honda), but there are a lot of different versions. 129700-3440, 3630, 3881, 3960, 4150, 4400, 4420, 4800, 5100, 5140, 5230 and 5330. Those are just the ones I know of! I was just about to suggest that someone post the Denso part numbers of the "GSXR" COPs they've found to work... Cheers,

Recalling my start-up issues some years ago: are your injectors sticking? Ciao,

I sense another trip down the garden to my shed is imminent! The throttle bodies pictured were acquired solely to harvest their injectors, which were then professionally cleaned and used on my yellow 5th gen in California, so these TBs have no injectors. If you want to try them with 6th gen injectors, feel free; I have no use for them, so you're welcome to them. I'm happy to help your projects in any way I can. Some of my spare parts made their way into lovely Rick Oliver's RC30/36 some years ago, so no pressure there! (The bike's original injectors are still in California, sorry.) ISTR Dan from A&A Performance experimenting with 6th gen injectors on the Torocharger bike, but ultimately he decided the 5th gen injectors were fine. That suggests that they can swap, but I don't remember the details, really. Btw, the RC36 carbs in that picture are from my FL; FR-V carbs are 2mm smaller, I think--and they are definitely different in many other ways (I had not realised that until I compared the set I have here with that picture. Ciao,

Well, it's only 748cc vs 781/2cc, innit? Forget rubber, why not do something with silicone hoses? Use some good clamps and I can't see the injectors going anywhere. Yes, I was kinda expecting that... I have now located all of my carbs in the shed, so I will have a look. (The RC36-II set I mentioned earlier is missing one of the 16016-MZ2-E00 mixture screws. At least I think that's the part number--TBC.) Ciao,

For reference, here's a set of RC36 carbs next to a set of RC46 throttle bodies: Ciao,

I've acquired a couple of spares over the years. Shall I put one in the box with the shock link piece? Ciao,

I measured my NC30 axle bolt at 186.71mm, measured from the top of the head. FWIW, an RC30 axle bolt protrudes from an RC30 axle approximately 34.6mm. Ciao,

I am not sure if this has already been mentioned, but...Question: the NC30 axle is shorter than the RC36 axle, so will it work with the RC36 bearing carrier? but is that because of the lack of cush drive, or because of the narrower bearing carrier on the NC30? I've got the triangular piece we spoke about in front of me now, but I still cannot find the conical spacer (assuming I have one). You could probably turn a conical spacer on your lathe to help centre the axle and nut, which would sit inboard of the raised lip on the flat NC30 spacer--same effect. Ciao,

I think I've heard of someone welding up the lug holes in a 750 wheel, which shouldn't really be a big problem for a competent welder. Possibly a Hawk GT guy--they're nuts, those boys. Don't/didn't you have an RC45? It sounds like it would be very useful to compare a Honda single-nut wheel with the RC36-II wheel you have. Now that you mention it, I might have acquired a conical wheel spacer with my RC30 swing arm. I'll have to check in the shed-o-wonder. I can get you whatever measurements you need. Which, exactly? Ciao,

I think this is a picture of my RC30 axle before it was modified to take the NR wheel. The drive pins have been removed (the NR uses larger diameter pins, which had to be fabricated): In contrast, this is an RC36 axle; it has no central locating flange--the wheel is centred and retained by the studs and nuts, only: The NC30 wheel is centred by the protruding flange on the axle, the axle bolt (and the cone spacer, which isn't actually conical) just keeps the wheel from falling off. This is actually an NC30 axle that has been modified by Rick Oliver to accept a VFR750 wheel. The central flange has actually been cut down from its original length because it would have interfered with the VFR750 wheel: In this photo you can see where the OEM drive pins were before they were plugged: The NC30/35 and RC40 all use a flat "cone spacer", so its function must be slightly different than on the RC30/45. It may be that the conical part of it isn't actually necessary when the wheel is being retained by an axle bolt and nut, and centred by the central flange? When the conical spacer is actually the nut that retains the wheel onto the axle (as it is on HRC bikes), I can see it being fully functional, but the conical bit doesn't seem necessary on a production bike. (I do recall the inner axle being a tight fit on my NC30/35s, so that doesn't seen out of line to me.) Ciao,

I knew this was going to happen! Yes, I meant wheel side. And then I hit the "Submit Reply" button three times because the page didn't update. So, now I've memorialised my uck-fup three times for posterity. It's been one of those weeks... But I don't care because I also got a pristine Startrite 14-T-10 bandsaw for £350, delivered! Ciao,

...and now you know I'm SERIOUS... Ciao,

I just fit my Ti sprocket-side M18 x 1.5 nut (used on my RC30 axle) onto my NC35. Confirmed! Ciao,

I just fit my Ti sprocket-side M18 x 1.5 nut (used on my RC30 axle) onto my NC35. Confirmed! Ciao,

I just fit my Ti sprocket-side M18 x 1.5 nut (used on my RC30 axle) onto my NC35. Confirmed! Ciao,