BusyLittleShop

I've been using Lithium Iron batteries since 2009... The first was Josh Kaufman's Speed Cell... On the question of longevity my Speed Cell Lithium Iron worked flawlessly in my RC45 for over 4 years despite the fact it was discharged down to 3.5 volts in the first 2 years... It was still serviceable 2015 when I sold my Speed Cell to Bob for his VFR 800 because I wanted a dedicated balance charging system Shoria offers for my RC45... Back in 2009 I went for a new Lithium Iron batteries because not only are they 6 pounds 10 ounces lighter than the stock YUASA they do not

I've Ti out Mr.RC45... replacing every nut and bolt with Titanium and saved about 8 lbs... I second what Danno said... employ anti seize because titanium will gall... First photo is stock RC45 parts with steel hardware... the second is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware... Second photo is my homemade modified parts with Titanium hardware...

Good job... for best results replace stock steel bolts with stainless steel that will not rust...

Ducati mirrors are pure sex on two wheels... I custom fab a set on Marv's ZX7... painted green nobody notices them...

Exhaust bolts offer less resistance if you tackle them after a ride and all the parts are at maximum temp...

You're welcome... The exotic oval-piston NR750 DNA was first used on the 94 RC45 in the form of the PGM-FI for Programmable Fuel Injection which employed 46mm throttle bodies and total of seven sensors to deal with mixture control... The RC45 also inherited the NR750 massive 140mm 8 plate slipper clutch and the single sided swingarm... The RC45 engine architecture exist in 98 VFR with its gear driven cams and fuel injection... Honda part number identifier for the NR750 MT7 and the RC45 MW4... so check and see if any VFR part sports these IDs I'm holding

Here is Essential Superbike on the ultimate V4 the Nr750 or New Racer... I'd place the NR750 on a pedestal all by it's lonesome... it still looks down at all the other manufactures with you'll never top this level of engineering... it scared to FIM rulingbody enough to ban anything but round cylinders...

The BLS method of removing and installing grips without destroying them or the need for safety wire... 1)slip a rat tail comb under the grip... 2)position the end of the grip up hill so a trickle of alcohol will travel down the length of the gap created by the comb... 3)remove comb and twist the grip to work the alcohol in between grip and throttle barrel... '4)To install flood the inside of the grip with alcohol and quickly and firmly work it on... employing this method I have never had to resort to safety wire to secure my grips...

Which oil is best for longevity??? either a 30 or 40 grade oils in either synthetic or mineral will meet and exceed your mileage expectations... Which oil is best for lowering temps??? the 30 grades flows with less drag than a 40 grade... Which oil is best for Horse Power??? the 30 grades flows with less energy than a 40 grade...

I buy it by the gallon... Make sure you speak from experience before you forewarn...

I recommend employing a plastic welder...

Negative... acetone will not melt ABS nor it will not harm stock paint... rattle can paint yes... I employ acetone to clean the inside of the RC45 painted fairing...

Welcome NorCal owner to the forum... by chance do you know Tony Lamperti of Tony's Toys and Trucks???

I employ Permatex Aviation gasket sealer... I seal the gasket to the cover not the engine... this is a maintenance convenient move and not required to establish a leak proof seal...

Raising the front forks slightly in the triple clamps negatively cuts into available ground clearance where as putting a spacer between the top of the rear shock and the frame doesn't...

You're welcome...

Going by part numbers 91 VFR 750 and 98 VFR800 employ the same friction disc... VFR750/800 clutch friction thickness p/n 22201-MS6-620 2.92mm - 3.08mm (0.115 - 0.121) service limit 2.5 (0.10)

Gone in 91 but never forgotten Happy Birthday... I live in Japan 79 to 81 courtesy of the USAF... I was wearing my Mugen Tee shirt while spectating at Mt Fuji racetrack... Hirotoshi Honda #1 son of Soichiro Honda and president of Mugen walked up and introduced himself... Together we traveled back to Tokyo on the Shinkansen... I summed up my life long love and admiration for his Dad by saying "cut my wrist and it will bleed Honda red"... Hirotoshi was so taken that he asked his Dad for a meeting but the answer was "Gomen nasai" (I'm sorry) health issues... Gone in

Negative Danno... if you ever get lucky enough to test hop Mr.Honda's race bred V4 it will re calibrate the seat of your pants with its bottom end plod, midrange drive and top end rush... Quote Fast Bikes "In view of the modest stock HP claims, we didn't expect particularly startling grunt from the engine as most of the manufactures have been claiming 125BHP as a matter of course for their 750 replica superbikes. Quite unexpectedly, the RC45 forced us to think again; it's HP combined with formidable torque in the middle gears and the extraordinarily clean and rapid

My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... Makota San also worked on the NR500 oval piston racer and he plans to visit the Busy Little Shop some day because I have 2 cylinder blocks off the NR500 that I packed out of Japan in 1981... Makota San down on cannery row... In my opinion VTEC stands for Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... it worked on heavy cars but it proved to be too radic

Post a photo of the critical pin and roller junction and you'll see that your chain was pretty on the outside and wearing metal to metal on the inside...

Chains do get that hot and heat affects the longevity of the factory installed grease...

I mainly employ gas because its handy... I've used K but its goes bad and stinks... If there is one chemical our chains can handle its good old gas... petroleum products have no lasting effect on the X W or O rings because instead of rubber chain manufactures today actually use a highly fluorinated fluoroelastomer known commercially as Viton or Kalrez... very tough stuff... It has a excellent resistance to most chemicals including sulfur... sulfur chloride... sulfur dioxide... sulfur hexaflouride to name a few... most important it doesn't need protection from drying o

True but consider this... chain manufactures are advised riveted by their liability lawyers not by their engineers... speaking as a engineer I believe clipped ML on a X ring chain are safe... that is because X ring links are pressed on... but the one step home mechanics miss doing is side loading the clip once it is homed in the groove... this step insures it will stay put... I've witnessed many customers O or X ring chains missing their clips... they have no idea just how many thousands upon thousands of miles covered in this unsafe condition... but if a clip is tossed on a no

Chains are pain to maintain... only a belt spells relief... I've removed my X ring chain and thoroughly cleaned in an gas bath... But lubing an X ring chain in an oil bath was not successful because What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste and will only fling off... If you wish to lube the critical pin and roller junction just cut and remove all the X rings...