BusyLittleShop

Study my photo... see the rust??? that is the point where the inner flange is stuck on the axle... once this point is free the axle will pop right out... I'd heat the flange until spit sizzles and whacked it like you mean it with a 5 lb hammer... first make sure the rear caliper is removed...

I know exactly where you're stuck... I employ a 5 lb sledge hammer to great success...

Your removal would be much easier after a long ride when all the parts are at operating temps... Your axle is probably frozen at the wheel bearings due to corrosion from either rain riding or washing your bike with a garden hose... if the rubber hammer fails then you need more force like a large steel hammer... to protect the axle and threads source a hard wood block or plastic... installed the nut backwards so the flange faces you... strike the wood / plastic against the nut... the force to budge the axle maybe extreme so be prepared for the bike to move about... also be pr

I think Honda should rebadge the shaft 1200 Veefalo as the next 1200 ST and then go back to the drawing board and engineer a 1000cc light weight V4 with a gear driven cams... maintenance free belt drive... flip forks and radial calipers...

Motorcycle horns in good working order have a distinctive sound all there own... when people here that little beep beep... they have been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace the beep beep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what??? confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into their heads in a panic situation... Like when you hear beep beep you think Road Runner... not Wiley E

I installed a Yamaha R1 Rec/Reg instead of the uniquely RC45 high dollar Rec/Reg... this was after I went through 2 stock R/Rs at $227 each and 1 $300 stator and still I suffered the problem of low volts to the point where the engine would hesitate and quit... only after I give up on Honda's stuff and tried Yamaha's stuff did I have the joy of finishing my ride...

Really hot is a wildly subjective term on the human scale... it would help if we had some C or F numbers to judge by...

I'd replace the shift cover gasket item 6 p/n 11632-MY7-000

You're welcome... keep those knees in the breeze...

We are in the age of the Electronic Bike... fuel delivery and spark timing and instruments and everything else operate within millionths of a volt (milli-volts) and for some reason a component doesn't receive its allotted share of volts the system starts to prioritized which components are powered and which components are cut so you can ultimately return home... Trouble Shooting begins with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure term

Welcome back... I'll never forget your expert analysis of a failed aluminum rearset... so let me know if you want help choosing your oil viscosity...

To troubleshoot an internal noise the first step is to establish the rate at which it occurs... is the noise in time with the camshaft or crankshaft??? camshafts rotate 1/2 the speed of the crankshaft... possible source of camshaft speed noises are shim and bucket clearances... loose cam bearing blocks... broken valve springs... possible source of crankshaft speed noises are a scuffed piston... stuck piston ring... rod bearings... To pin point the exact location of the noise hold a long tip screw driver or a length of garden hose up to your ear and probe the suspected

It goes without saying add fresh oil and filter but then activate the kill switch and then hit the starter until the red low oil pressure light extinguishes... this will ensure fresh oil flows between the crankshaft and journals... this action is prudent in order to prevent any metal to metal wear on start up... because after 4 years the risk is that the oil separating these critical parts is inadequate...

On 8/29/2020 at 4:57 PM, Grum said: A blocked breather on these bikes can mean not being able to open the fuel cap, AND enough vacuum can build up to severely deform and damage the tank. Like Grum said: Make sure the tank vent is clear and remains open or the fuel pump will create enough vacuum to collapse the tank... I've witnessed a Honda tank collapse because the dealer installed a California tank on a 49 state bike and the cap wasn't vented like this Ducati example...

Always begin with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage... 12.8 or higher is a good battery... 12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge... 12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable... The key to understanding a motorcycle charging system is RPMs... below 5000 and the bike consumes more than the system can replenish... above 5000 and the battery stores more than the system can use... We are

The main difference between a 180/55 and a 190/50 is profile and diameter... the 180 is bigger in diameter and sharper in profile... the change in geometry is as follows... going from a 190 to a 180 means rake is steepen and trail is shorten which lowers the steering effort... whereas going from a 180 to a 190 means rake is extended and trail is added which adds to the steering effort... Diameter... 190/50/17=24.480 621mm 180/55/17=24.795 629mm

I agree... the sure sign you hit raw aluminum is black on your polishing cloth...

If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest in some good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to determine serviceability and within the factory specifications... Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal glazing and contaminates... Deglazing clutch plates ain't nothing new... no sir... back in the 70s it use to be part of every savvy rider's maintenance plan... and for some reaso

As a Honda lover with 55 years worth of experience here are my best picks... 1958 50cc Cub...ridden 1969 CB750 .......ridden 1981 CR250R ...owned 1983 VF750 ......ridden 1984 VF500 .....owned 1988 RC30 .......owned 1991 NR750 1994 RC45 ......owned 1999 RC51 ......ridden 2013 RC213VS

If you want to replicate the RC45 direct race feel between your right wrist and the contact patch then scrap the silly cushdrive... Both the RC30 and RC45 are direct drives...

Rossi has seen a lot in his career but nothing like what happened in turn 3 Austria Gp... first Morbidelli's Yamaha the Zarco's Ducati almost hit him... The view on board Rossi's Yamaha...

I've been using Lithium Iron batteries since 2009... First was the (SpeedCell) since sold to a customer... currently Mr.RC45 is powered by a Shoria... I think days of the old heavy lead acid battery are number... smart money is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery...

Nothing wrong with Honda except the CEO in control... he is the account that closes his wallet with a torque wrench towards any new race bred V4...

Thanks Dangeruss... I'm happy you're happy... I hope customs didn't charge a fee???

Fact 1... Tires are elastic bodies and cannot be produced absolutely round without imbalance. Therefore balance is paramount after fitting a new tire... Fact 2... Dynamic balancing is the preferred method because the wheel is rotating and measures the deviation of masses with respect to center... How much weight is too much??? if you employ more than 3.5 ounces of lead weight which is 14 1/4 stick on lead weights to the tire it can be judged defective in manufacturing and you may request a refund or replacement... contact the seller and state your gripe...