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BusyLittleShop last won the day on March 20

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

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About BusyLittleShop

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    Have a Wheelie Nice Day
  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, VFRD Peg Lowering Blocks exclusively for VFR. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. You're welcome... To remove the cassette from the swingarm it may be necessary to shoot compressed air at the 6 "O" Clock position to remove foreign objects such as rocks and dirt that may hang up the cassette from coming free of the swingarm... Special Tool... after you remove the dust seal and retaining clip... fabricate a 1/4 thick 2.200 diameter aluminum special tool to press out the needle bearing...
  2. The RC30 RC45 and VFR employ the same 91061-ML0-731 double ball bearings which only have a single dust seal which affords easy access to clean and repack with grease...
  3. Brake Bleeding As you can see in the drawings the zip tie suggestion doesn't accomplish much because as you squeeze the lever the piston blocks the path of bubbles (blue) from reaching the reservoir... but if you leave the lever at rest the piston retracts enough to uncover the port so the bubbles (blue) can travel all the way to the reservoir...
  4. Here are my axle and bearing care notes that I send out to RC30/ RC45 club members... Because the RC30 and RC45 and VFR employ the same 91062-MR7-003 caged needle bearing that rides directly on on the rear axle I offer my method to clean both the axle and bearing... Once you have the bearing removed you employ a two jewelers screw drivers and carefully lift each roller from the cage... Give the rollers and cage a bath in gasoline... you be surprised at all the dirty deposits hidden in the old grease and every nook and cranny... you're looking at the deposits after only 10K miles of normal operation... Once the bearing are really clean lay them out and inspect each roller for scoring... Dirt mixed with the old grease will leave a trail of deposits on the axle at point B... Spun in a Lathe... it's easy to remove the deposits employing a gray micro fine 3M pad... it's soft enough that it does *not* remove any precious metal... What you'll end up with is an axle with the deposits remove plus giving the metal a nice luster... With the bearing cleaned and axle shinning you're ready for fresh grease and another 10K miles...
  5. No problems... Honda OEM filter are manufactured by Filtech, an American subsidiary of the Toyo Roki Manufacturing Company. Filtech has been manufacturing filters for HMC since '87 take a look inside and note the quality is about the same as K&N or HiFlo...
  6. You're welcome... sticking together is characteristic of a Barnett clutch... its the reason I don't recommend them...
  7. First inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... Next removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Finally check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Steps to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Hold in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop... if it continues spinning trouble shoot the lever for travel and master cylinder for condition... open the oil filler and look at the clutch pack to note just how far the plates spread apart when you squeeze the lever... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
  8. There was a K&N safety recall back in 2016 for certain K&N oil filters, Part Nos. KN-204 (black) and KN-204C (chrome), manufactured between March 1, 2016 and September 30, 2016 can leak oil at the area where a nut (intended for use to remove the oil filter during routine oil changes) is welded to the end of the filter. If there is such a leak, oil could come into contact with the rear tire or rear brake of the motorcycle on which the filter is installed. If this were to occur, it could lead to a loss of control or a crash. Therefore, K&N offered to replace the affected oil filters at no charge... I continue to employ a K&N 303 filter on Mr.RC45 and I have used OEM and High Flow with equal satisfaction... Oil Filter Comparison... [youtube]
  9. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF 104ºC or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)
  10. True... Balls 1 RC45 was sold out a shop in Lambeth Ontario... It was listed in Cycle News for $37K and Daniel who only collects Balls 1 motorcycles sealed the deal... I got to know Daniel back in 98 when he offered me 24K for my Balls 2 thinking it was the lowest VIN RC45 available to the pubic... surely Honda has Balls 1 RC45 on display in the Honda museum... boy were we wrong... Daniel still pressures me to sell my RC45 personal plate... no can do Partner... Owners ship their prized RC45s to the Busy Little Shop to get sorted out... All 500 production RC45s have two engine management maps inside their ECU no matter origin: one map is limited for emissions compliance and the other map is for full power. It's a simple matter of cutting 3 wires and rerouting them to the other map. So modified the rear wheel power will rise from 97.8 @ 10,000 rpm to 110 @ 12,250 rpm. Officially Honda states RC45 rake is 24.5 with 92mm of trail... perfect numbers for perfect handling but for some reason they rolled onto the dealers floor with an error in trail of 95.5mm... we add 4mm to the ride height to experience the best from HRC.... Daniel and Jay Leno...
  11. All energy packed in storage presents some risk and Lithium-ion batteries have about seven times the energy density of traditional lead-acid batteries, which means you can get much more power from a much smaller-and lighter-battery pack. As with any new, unfamiliar technologies, lithium~ion batteries have spawned various alarmist views but used properly, they're superior to their old lead-acid predecessors.
  12. To troubleshoot an internal noise the first step is to establish the rate at which it occurs like you have with engine rpms... next place a length of garden hose or long screw driver up to your ear and probe the suspected area while the bike is running on the center stand...
  13. It's always good to know what is the condition of the pump and filter BUT if go by the logical steps in the Honda manual checking the fuel flow is troubleshooting for poor performance at high speed... Its worth remembering that Motorcycle troubleshooting is a form of problem solving... It is a logical search for the source of a problem so that it can be solved...
  14. If the fuel filter was restricted then the higher the rpm the greater the hesitation... Look to remapping which means a new 3-D map of injector on-time, throttle angle, and engine rpm to be worked out on a dyno, then stored in memory in engine’s ECU because if you change the exhaust system odds are you have to install a new fuel system map to go with it... A Dyno tune will cure your deep torque flat spot just before engine torque begins its climb toward peak torque...
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