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BusyLittleShop last won the day on February 15

BusyLittleShop had the most liked content!

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About BusyLittleShop

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    Have a Wheelie Nice Day
  • Birthday 10/09/1948

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  • Location
    Sacramento California
  • In My Garage:
    RC45 RC30, VFRD Peg Lowering Blocks exclusively for VFR. 5th & 6th & 8th Gen, PM for info.

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  1. Negative the problem was not cams but cam bearing blocks... Honda's great cam shaft crisis was the result of a factory cost cutting measure... they choose to mill the cam bearing blocks separately... there was no matching of components... consequently the cam bearing blocks were not line bored with the head... if the tolerances happened to add up... the cam will flop about in the head.. you'll notice the edge of the cams fail first... a sure sign the cam shaft tilted and was allowed to strike the follower at an angle... this also explains why some cams go 100K while other only 20K... Honda spent a lot of money replacing hand cam shafts and matching cam bearing blocks to erase the blemish on the V4 legacy... Honda took a lot of stick over this problem and immediately went back to the expense of line boring the cam bearing blocks in the head... To tell the difference between line bored head and the one that gots the short cut... take a look at the valve cover gasket... if your gasket sports little half circles molded into the rubber... then you have the expensive line bored head... no little half circles... then you have the short cut heads...
  2. Honda's CEO didn't follow through with a new race bred V4... instead he dropped the strategy that Mr.Honda put into practice in the 80s and 90s and little Ducati was free to champion a new race bred V4... Quote Japan magazine Young Machine Honda RVF1000R – Honda is preparing a new superbike with four-cylinder V engine with which they aim to regain the prominence lost in the World Superbike. From Japan, Young Machine magazine has produced a render that promises to be very close to the sporty one that Honda will put in dealerships from 2019 or 2020, a motorcycle that, unlike the exclusive RC213V-S of 180,000 euros, the Honda RVF1000R will have a more affordable price in line with other models of the Superbike class such as the new Ducati Panigale V4, the Kawasaki ZX-10RR or the Aprilia RSV4 RF, that is, in the range of 20 to 25 thousand euros. The idea pursued by Honda is to repeat the strategy that the Japanese brand already put into practice in the 90s, when the RC45 -successor of the successful RC30 with V4 engine- coexisted in the market with the Fireblade 900 RR, a model that at that time could not compete in the World Superbike to have a cubicle superior to 750 cc. That’s where the RC45 maintained its small niche market, offering a registered racing bike that still, to this day, remains an object of desire for fans of sports bikes of that time. At the end of the 90s, with the changes in the regulation of the WSBK, Honda opted for a configuration of two cylinders, then launching the VTR 1000 SP1, baptized as RC51. Many years later another RC would arrive, in this case the RC213V-S, derived directly from the MotoGP, a motorcycle of which only about 200 units are produced each year strictly numbered, many of them destined to live locked in a museum or a garage private because of the incalculable value they will have in the future. According to the patents that Honda presented in the United States last March -where you can see an engine in V4 configuration with the stock anchored to the chassis as in the Ducati Panigale- it is evident that the future of the brand of the golden wing in Superbikes it is to leave aside the inefficient CBR 1000 RR Fireblade SP2 and bet on a model that will be called the Honda RVF1000R. The Honda RVF1000R In its heart, we will find an engine derived from the one already seen in the RC213V of MotoGP, a V4 at 90º that, unlike the street RC213V-S, the Honda RVF1000R will have less exotic materials to reduce costs. The cycle part will be in line with the rest of the superbikes in the market, while the chassis could be an evolution of the double beam in aluminum of the RC213V that would take advantage of the engine as one more element to reduce its weight and dimensions. And what will happen with the CBR 1000 RR Fireblade? It seems difficult for Honda to quit a model with such tradition and with such an illustrious name. The logical thing would be to think that the Fireblade will continue to be commercialized along with the Honda RVF1000R from 2019 or 2020, offering a more human model, with a significantly lower price and benefits below those offered by the V4, whose estimated power will move between the 210 and the 220 cv. At the moment, Aprilia is the only brand that bets on the configuration of four cylinders in V in the WSBK. As of 2019, Ducati will put on track its Panigale V4, breaking with more than two decades of two-cylinder tradition in this championship, and everything to the point that Honda will be the next to rely on a V4 mechanics to fight for the crown of the Championship of the World of Superbikes in 2020.
  3. The dead give away of an air leak on a Fi engine is high uncontrolled idle... on a fuel injection system *any* air that gets past the throttle bodies the map just adds the corresponding fuel... the result is high uncontrollable idle... make sure all the rubber hoses are connected and in good shape... make sure all the intake boots are tight and in good flexible shape... if the rubbers are hard and cracked its time for replacement...
  4. Motorcycle horns... in good working order... have a distinctive sound all there own... when people here that little beeep eep... they have been trained over the years to think motorcycle... but if you replace the beeep eep with a car... truck or train horn... guess what??? confused people will charge right into your path thinking a car... truck or train has blown it's horn for them to get out their way... It's only natural for cagers to equate sounds to the first thing that pops into their heads in a panic situation... You're safest with meep meep... I talked to BMW rider who mounted air horns pirated from Southern Pacific Diesel Locomotive... They sounded great but he was having second thoughts... it seems cagers were running into his bike in a panic trying to get away from the train they could not see... We know that cagers are unpredictable and that blasting them with 125db non standard motorcycle horn is enough to send their thought process into over load... that's a destabilizing act of our own creation... Nathom Air Chimes off a Locomotive...
  5. Springs are not the source of clutch knock at idle rather over time slop develops allowing the gear teeth to knock about and thus the noise... grab the clutch lever and the inner basket helps align the outer basket and the noise deadens... the only cure is to eliminate the slop with new clutch parts... namely replace the clutch guide p/n 22116-MB0-000 and clutch bearing 91024-MB0-003
  6. You may have corrosion where penetrating oil can not reach... I'd take it to a shop that will use a air driven impact tool to remove the Auto nuts...
  7. I echo your Holiday thoughts... Miguel is the man that brings us all together... without him there would be no VFRD... no place to multiply our VFR pleasure and divide our grief... so get your NOG on and party!!! Greetings from the Laguna Seca Cork Screw
  8. Greetings... I'm also Italian here in California USA... my folks migrated from Piedmont region... ciao...
  9. Out on the highway late at night... inky blackness is stealing your sight... you got halogen head lights and they ain't bright... your motorcycling by pale moon light.... On Mr.RC45 I replaced my PIAA 60/55 watt Xenon gas Super White bulbs that glow in the 4200 Kelvin range with Speed Metal's 25 watt Cree LED H4 with a working high and low beam... now I'm riding so bright I have to wear shades... I paid $69 each at Cycle Gear for the Speedmetal LED kit... http://www.cyclegear.com/SPEEDMETAL-LED-Conversion-Kit
  10. If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is also an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)
  11. Sad to learn Laguna Seca is off the schedule... here is some insight to what is going on... https://racer.com/2019/11/19/insight-monterey-county-sham/
  12. Mercy for StromShadow and his Flambeau VFR... however I've seen this problem before... Fire can happen when corrosion builds up over time between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire... Everyone should perform a one time inspection of their QD and take appropriate action like replace the QD or just solder the wires together... As the RC45 Club's tech advisor I received this urgent photo and a request as to the reason why fire almost claimed this members RC45 ... Story goes that Bob and Pam Solloway of Coventry UK... a couple of RC freaks... were on the way to Misano WSB... Pam's RC45 caught fire while stopped at a light... the flames were beat back by bottle water from a passing van... they were lucky the incident did not happen out in the middle of nowhere for it would have spread rapidly to the fuel lines and then the tank... nothing is worst as watching bike flambeau... First call was to check the alternator quick disconnect at the transformer rectifier... I was positive that the QD had suffered enough resistance to heat and melt the insulation on the wires... the wires got enough to start a fire which all most consumed her prize... As I prepared my case for Pam I pulled the seat cowl off my RC45 to send her a pic of the quick disconnect in question... Mercy was I ever in for a shock... my quick disconnect was bad and about to turn my bike into a crispy critter... Apparently corrosion builds up between the quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic and insulation... Cleaning the pins with a wire brush and coating them in dielectric grease can prevent this danger from becoming a problem... My quick disconnect was toast... I decided to cut and solder the wires directly and seal with heat shrink tubing... I've solder the wires directly to eliminate the possibility of fire... Mr.RC45 dark but 100% functional stator... engine oil causes the insulation to darken... notice the part of the insulation that doesn’t rest in the oil is unchanged... so don't toss your stator just because its dark... test it to determine serviceability...
  13. The days of the old heavy lead acid battery are number... smart money is on the new light weight Lithium Iron battery like Shorai... not only is it 5lbs lighter but doesn't require trickle charging and will not sulfate... I also recommend Shorai's balance charger because it as two modes one for storage and one for charging... http://www.shoraipower.com Lithium batteries require a different routine than lead acid... understanding the chargers operation is key to success... At the end of your ride connect the Shoria charger... Push don't hold buttons... push either STORE or CHARGE button once and wake up confirmation is signaled by 1 beep... either push button STORE or CHARGE once and activation is signaled by 3 beeps... Selecting CHARGE will bring the battery to 14.4V... but if your bikes charging system raised the battery higher than 14.4V nothing will happen... CHARGE mode does not maintain 14.4V... Leavening the battery on CHARGE will lead to discharge... Select STORE mode and the charger will maintain/float the battery at approximately 13.3V... that means no charge begins until volts drop from the high of 14.4V down to 13.3 V... Your battery will rest on STORE mode for as long as power is supplied to the charger... But when you are ready to ride push CHARGE to cancel the STORE mode. Press the CHARGE button momentarily and listen for the triple beep. The Green light will then begin to flash. It may take up to 30 minutes for the battery to reach full capacity, approximately 14.4V. It will change to a solid green once it reaches full capacity... now you're ready to start your ride with a 100% full capacity batt... if you begin your ride off STORE mode the battery is only at 13.3V which is 90% capacity... 14.340 100% 13.300 90% 13.270 80% 13.160 70% 13.130 60% 13.116 50% 13.104 40% 12.996 30% 12.866 20% 12.730 10% 9.200 0%
  14. DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based fluids designed to signal moisture contamination by changing color... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, then dark brown indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark and yukky, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... Honda's RC45 employs the same master cylinder as VFR... Moisture Contaminated
  15. You're welcome Bailey... I'm glad you're keeping the knees in the breeze... cheers...
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