Grum

Hi Skids. - Don't worry about coolant depending on when you last changed it? For example Honda Type 2 coolant has a recommended service life of 60,000miles or near enough 100,000kms, or 5 years. By reducing the heat cycles with what you're doing probably helps to extend the 5 years time interval. - Agree with changing clutch and brake fluid no longer than every two years as this stuff absorbs moisture over time degrading it's performance and potentially inducing corrosion. - Agree with a full tank of fuel with stabilizer added. Avoid Ethanol blended fuel for long term storage.! - Battery, regular charge or hooked up to an intelligent charger/maintainer. - If you have not long replaced oil and filter with a high quality semi or full synthetic oil, can't see the need to replace this on a time basis, assume we're not talking years and years! - A good squirt of chain lube prior to storage is a good idea. - Like the suggestion of blocking off the air filter intakes for rodent protection, if you live where the little buggars are! - Add a few extra psi to both tires prior to storage, set the bike up on its center stand. - Never heard of valves being something to worry about for storage, how long are we talking about here? - Brake pads will last a lifetime - if you never use them! Replace only when worn to minimums. Disclaimer - As always YMMV. Love the look of your 5gen. Cheers.

WRONG...That is exactly how you'd describe the 6gen single seat. But can confuse someone wanting to know how the 8gen two piece seat is. The cowl unlike the 6gen does Not "sit over the top of the pillion seat". On the 8gen when the pillion seat is not fitted the cowl most certainly is Not "there for aesthetic purposes". Sure hope Hondamike hasn't been completely confused! To answer his question - "can I put the cowl back on while pillion seat fitted.?" - The clear answer is No.

No no you're thinking of a 6gen. As VifferJ states it's one or the other, the cowl doesn't fit over the top of the pillion seat on a 8gen.

Hi Jim. Kaoko website lists a HND31S for a 1999 VFR800. Have had one fitted to my 2014 for a number of years. I think it's discrete, neat and works well, it's very handy on long straight roads and highways.

Do a search for LCD Polarizing Film, there's lots out there. You might be able to remove/unstick the front film and replace it. Haven't done it but it would be worth a try Good Luck

5th and 6gens are all done on center stand, going by the book! I'm sure the 8gen mentions side stand to allow for the US Standard version.

I have heard they can stick together from long periods of non riding, having the bike in gear, clutch pulled in and rocking the bike back and forth can break the stiction, but once you're up and running and warm engine you shouldn't have any sticking plate issue at all. - Its easy to check - If in gear engine not running and you pull the clutch in, if you can't move the rear wheel then you have an issue. - Another test is with your bike on the center stand engine running, place it in gear let the clutch out to spin up the wheel, if you pull the clutch in the rear wheel should come to a stop. Give the clutch a good bleed, see if that helps.

Sorry, not experienced enough to say, perhaps others might have a better idea about that.

Might be worth firstly giving the clutch a good fluid flush. You might have a bit of air in the system not allowing the clutch to fully disengage. There will always be a certain amount of clutch "chunk" when stationary and selecting a gear due to the multiplate design.

Yes, you could measure a bad AC voltage by measuring with the plug connected to the R/R. - If there is a fault with the R/R causing the AC voltage to drop badly, how will you know if its the R/R at fault or the Stator? Note - While not specified in the Service Manual the AC output from the Stator at 5000rpm should be anywhere from 50 to 75 ac volts when unplugged from the R/R. By having the plug separated and measuring the unloaded AC from the stator, provided they measure equally across any combination of the three wires and you don't measure any ohms to ground of any of the wires, and you should measure low ohms 0.1 to 1ohm between each of the three wires then you can say the Stator is O.K. Conversely, if voltages and/or ohm measurements are bad, you certainly have a faulty Stator. Remember, unlike the DC side where the Negative is Grounded to frame, the AC Stator and its AC voltage has NO connection to frame/ground, its said to be floating! So if the Stator checks out O.K. then that only leaves the R/R as the faulty item if you have a charging issue, thats assuming all your connections are good. Hope this helps.

Opps the end looks near! Certificate has expired. Thanks to everyone for this wonderful forum. Its been my almost daily hang out for a few years and I will miss it greatly. Its been a joy to learn from so many experienced members, and a lot of satisfaction to help (where possible) those with a sick VFR. All the Best of Health and safe riding to all. Fare Thee Well VFRD and it's members. Cheers.

Fully understand where you're coming from Miguel, can't thank you enough for all your efforts in running VFRD. It's a sad sad day for VFRD and its core members, a huge melting pot of knowledge, experience, and information I've been so grateful for. To all the wonderful members out there, cheers, good health, and safe riding

Hi bmart. 12g over 14g? Probably only of benefit from the RR output to the battery. Given the very short wire lengths and that the electrical loads are split into two virtually at the battery by Main Fuse A and B. Again, with such short wire distances, probably not an issue, its more about good solid, weather proof connections throughout that really matter. As for the Stator wires, the way I see it is you'd still have some length of wire at 14g so there's no real advantage in having a section that was 12g. and you'd be introducing another join in the wiring. No real concern about your stator wires, all three are copper but two are tin plated no difference in conductivity but the tinned ones will have better corrosion and oxidization qualities, but if all three are well connected either by solder and sleeved or high quality crimp joiners and sleeved you shouldn't have any issues. And.......... I make no apologies for repeating myself and advising to keep well away from Auto Reset Circuit Breakers for the main 12v output from the R/R to the battery positive. As always YMMV.

You got it vfrgiving. The worrying thing as stated in the Owners Manual under the heading of "Instruments, Controls, & Other Features" it states - Odometer "The display locks at 999,999 when the readout exceeds 999,999" .......Buggar, so once I've done a million kilometers I'll need a new instrument panel, bike will be only just run in at that stage!

Little buggers, how dare they cross double lines! Go for it!

That's great news Duc, glad you're well on the way to riding after such an ordeal, you'll soon be on the Steel Stallion again. I know how you feel in missing the riding. I've been off my bike for just over 3 months from major surgery and can't wait to get riding again, sadly winter is just around the corner, buggar! Take care, ride safe. Cheers.

Glad you mentioned Fused. NEVER use cheap and very nasty Auto Reset Circuit Breakers!

That connection is on a path to destruction! Glad you've detected it early enought. Take rayZerman's good above advice and get rid of the stator connector. "I would not use spades or even consider a connector for the stator wires. Crimp splice connector OK, but solder it as well and heat shrink over it."

I'm sure your problem is all to do with the incorrect Instrument Panel for your bike, and most likely not a faulty Speed Sensor! The speed signal is processed differently on a USA Standard model as there is no ABS modulator, the rear speed sensor is wired directly into the instrument panel then an output from the panel feeds the ECM. The Deluxe version is very different to this. See attached wiring of the two different types. ABS Version. Non ABS Version.

If you've purchased a USA AC Standard version panel, then it might not have the Traction Or ABS lights! Have you confirmed both ABS fuses are ok? At the power On test. If you don't see the ABS or Traction lights come on for a couple of seconds then that might explain the instrument panel difference. According to Partzilla.com.The USA VFR800F AC Standard panel part No is 37100-MJM-305 The Deluxe is a 37100-MJM-306 (This is for 2014/2015 which is all that is listed on their site.)

As mentioned in your other post. Speed is off the ABS sensor from the rear wheel. Nothing like a 6gen. If your ABS is not working is the ABS light flashing a fault code or fully on when riding?

Had another thought. Its a fairly short cable run from the fuse to the left radiator see if you can follow that cabling over to the fan having a good look for damage wiring. ALSO......Because you stated the PO has been fiddling in the fuse box area! If you can, have a very close inspection of the underneath wiring connections to the Fuse Box, there's a lot stuffed into this small area, there might be something obvious close to shorting at the Fan Fuse position. Who knows what the previous owner may have messed with? Might be best to disconnect a battery lead when doing this.

Yep, more than one way to skin a cat! So if you have a multimeter set it to Buzzer mode or lowest ohms range. Clip the black lead to battery negative or known good ground. Red lead probing the fan Black/Blue power wire. Ignition to OFF. Move around the wiring seeing if you can induce the short ie. hearing the Buzzer or ohms drop to very low.

Ok so it might be that with the vibration of riding triggers your intermittent short. Back in the garage with Ignition to On see if you can flex/jiggle the wiring from the fuse area to the fan area, see if this blows the fuse. Thoroughly visually check the wiring harness for any abrasions, cuts, damaged insulation or exposed wire that could rub against the frame causing the fuse blow. Would be best to do this with a voltmeter monitoring the fan voltage being the Black/Blue wire, keeping an eye on this as you move around the harness, sudden loss of 12v means fuse has blown. Good luck