Mohawk

You are spot on, but 3rd party QS's don't send anything to the ECU they just cut the signal to the plugs to skip a few RPM. Would be nice if manufacturers built an access port into the ECU, so you didn't have to do loads of wiring.

You can use a Healtech Quick Shifter Easy (QSE). I keep meaning to ask them to make me a special harness, will contact them tomorrow 👍

That sounds like the sound of spring 😁 Someone (sorry their name escapes me)or on VFRworld, did a high tune up on a 6th gen motor circa 2009 ish. Similar to this but more so, got 120hp IIRC. Replaced Vtec valves with non-Vtec ones, skimmed the head for higher compression, retimed the valves. Plus intake & exhaust changes.

Found this earlier. https://www.pressreader.com/uk/classic-racer/20190416/281625306673348

So I normally run a VFR400 axle/brakes & custom cush drive to allow that, so I could run my RC45 BST Carbon wheel. That wheel has an issue at the moment, so had to fi d a replacement. When I did the conversion 12years ago, there were loads of RC45 rear wheels about. But today they are almost unobtainium. So I had to come up with a means to get the bike back on the road. So stock axle was acquired, but without all the other stock bits it would not work. So a cunning plan was hatched to modify it to allow me to keep all my other custom parts. And hey presto here it is 😁 520 X-Ring Heavy duty chain (rated to 120hp), custom cush drive. Now stock rear axle nut & stock rear wheel, with VFR400 rear brake system. Note how much daylight through the stock wheel with my setup. Sprocket is an Afam 45 tooth for a Ducati 916 on a JT Ducati 5 bobbin QD carrier👍

So spent most of today putting my rear end back together. Took wheel to local tyre shop to get tyre put on, they did if FoC 😁 👍 Then reassembled the axle & disc, needed different washers as spacers due to 800 & 400 axle having different cutout for disc mounts. But we got there. Fitted axle to the hub & tighten everything up to the correct torque & axle spins freely 👍 Then connected the rear caliper to the brake hose & hung it from the rear of the bike to bleed it, much simpler with the bleed nipple at the top. Remembered to put something between the pads to act as disc spacer. All bled up very easily, hardest part was keeping my mini reservoir topped up, 2 full pumps & its empty. Then bolted caliper in place & put wheel on the bike & torqued up the wheel nuts. Removed centre stand whilst bike warmed up & took it for a brake test up my dead end street. All good, rear brake works & wheel didn't fall off 😂 Get an MoT Monday/Tuesday & then some test rides 👍

Got my modified Crossrunner (same as VFR) axle back. Shortened then threaded so I can use my custom cushdrive & VFR400 brake parts. Thus keeping my chain & sprockets the same. Should get rear end back together this weekend 😁 Ready for MoT next week & NW200 trip on the 8th 👍

Dainese own AGV. I have an old Dainese helmet, which was made for them by AGV. AFAIK they only sold Dainese branded helmets for a couple of years. I used to use AGV as they had a ML size that fitted my head well. They stopped doing ML but Dainese still did them 👍 Looking at the latest AGV size chart the current Large is 58-59cm which is the old ML size !

A mate is selling his FJ1200 currently not running having sat for the last couple of years unused. £600 ono. Ping me if you want his number for a chat. Info from him below;- "Yamaha FJ1200 First registered 20/03/1988

For anyone that follows HighsideNZ's excellent CAD diagrams based on my original design, please note that after 25K miles the bobbins M10 bolts pulled out of the alloy inner. If you used HighsideNZ's bobbin retainer then they won't come out all the way, but mine came out far enough to lose drive. I have now reengineered the alloy centre hub section with steel inserts press fitted into the alloy. This should now last without further issues. Outside view Inside view There is 2mm clearance between the alloy inner side & the hub carrier. I turned some flanged nuts down so the flange was 1.5mm thick + 6mm of nut to press fit into the alloy.

Somehow I missed Lance's request for info here. Full details available here. R.I.P Lance

In other news, new brake pads arrived & fitted to caliper. So will get attached & bled, whilst waiting for my reworked axle.

Well stock RC45 gears were used by non factory teams as normal with chain sprocket ratio changes only. Factory teams would have specific ratio boxes made to assist if WSBK rules allowed for that back in the day. But AFAIK they never had a cassette gearbox, so would have had to strip engine to change ratios !? Either way the boxes are strong. Stories of damaged gearboxes on RC46 VFR's are rare.

Bummer just had my wheel ultrasound tested & it does not look good. Tester recommended not to use it. ☹️

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

To fix my lack of rear wheel a little research shows the disc mount for the 400 & 800 are common. So I have a stock 800 axle off with a local engineering firm to reduce its length & add a new threaded section to allow me to fit my refurbed custom cush drive & bought a stock wheel to use until my carbon one is repaired. Pics when I get it back.

So as the rear end is in bits due to my rear wheel issue, I decided to refurb the VFR400 NC30 rear calliper with the Ti kit I bought a couple of years back. Here are some pics of steel v Ti parts. The kit includes new seals, Ti pistons, slider pins, pad retainer pin, banjo & bleed nipple. Just waiting for the new pads to arrive so I can bolt it back together & start bleeding it.

Yes TBW lag, so as above check power & then check cables as IIRC the 1200 uses TBW via normal throttle cables from the grip to the TBW sensor on the throttle body itself. A mate had a similar issue where water had got into the stepper motor gearbox that moves the throttle plates & it was struggling to react at real time speed.

Looks like the wheel is not damaged & only has cosmetic outer lacquer damage. Waiting on a verdict from BST, but should be restorable to as new look 👍😁 Phew

Re the Orange block, mine looked just like that when I fished it out of the loom, but on further inspection many of the wires going into the connectors in that block were corroded & covered with green oxidation which is not conductive! Check the wires going into the block !

Cheers fellas. Trying to find a replacement wheel. Need one for a trip to NW200 in 4 weeks. BST are a minimum 12weeks lead time & very expensive now, not that they were ever cheap. Will get the tyre off & see to what extent the rim is damaged. 12years old & 33K miles on it so far.

☹️ Discovered I have a broken Carbon rear wheel 😳 😭

Has it got the spring washer under the nut ? Number 24 in this pic.

The expert version is for dyno integration & allows you to modify multiple other settings like rpm & other variables. The standard version only allows fuel & ignition advance changes. That may have been my confusion.

Yes it can happen if they weren't staked properly. But many would never notice, how many people even have a socket for that ?