maxredline

BC, Canada. I have 2 VFR's up for sale. 1998 red that is in awesome shape, 47k kms or just under 30k miles. $6k Cad or $4408 usd. Metzler tires with half life left. 2000 blue that just needs paint. Bought of guy whos girl dropped it. He put chinese plastics on that looked okay but I hated it and sold the plastics in picture. I have repaired the original plastics and is ready for prep and paint. Bike runs great with under 50k ms. $4k cad or $2940 usd

Just looked at it until my knee heals up a bit.

I am looking for ideas on a colour. I think I will keep it simple as this will be my first paint job. I do like a 2015 Gmc dark sapphire metalic blue. Kawasaki has a blue that maybe okay. I did find this 900 painted like a 1100 but obviously is more involved. I think it would look nice on a viffer.

Too bad they are on Photobucket.

Going to give this flexible filler a go. I could have used regular filler (cheaper) but with all the work going into this a guy might as well limit problems down the road.

I bought some regular "bondo" for the fill portion of the body work. Now I find out you should use a flex filler on the plastic.

I saw a picture somewhere where it looked like you can still buy new boots. I have not researched it.

That's the way you do it!

I have had good results with Dupli color spray bombs on small jobs but personally do not want to paint the bike with rattle cans. I have been watching a lot of videos so I have a good idea using the LPLV spray gun. You never really know until you try. I am filling and sanding at the moment.

I just had the same problem and it was the throttle bodies being to high due to the fittinf of the rubber boots.

I could not hear a tick on your sound bite. Grab a peice of wooden dowl or wood bit and put it on the area where the sound is coming from and the other end to your ear (or a stethoscope if you have one). You may be able to narrow the sound down or compair sides.

A bit of a ramble to start. I am no expert, just saying this now, as you read this you will know. lol. I plan to share my paint and body journey. I hope I can make it to the finish by doing all the work myself without spending stupid money on a old bike. I want to keep it real. My goal is to get close to a professional looking job from 3 feet away. Please add your knowledge if you are a painter. Colour choice is another thing. I would like black but it shows everything so I am leaning to a Kawasaki or Porche shade of blue but that changes weekly. I have a few bikes that need cowl stays straightened along with body and paint. I have done the plastic repair and stays straigtened but have never painted. Getting the paint done by a pro would cost porhibitive to me and I would guess to most. I have done the plastic repair on 3 cowl parts with Plastex and an ABS base repair. Thanks to tech and the internet plastic repair is now easier than ever. There are a tons of videos on paint and can be confusing on which way to go. I do not want to do a rattle can job. As I have a realively mid sized compressor I have decided to go with a R500 low pressure, low volune paint gun. As I understand it the guns are okay for the DYI guy and are not expensive. I'll give it a go and poslish the shit out of any panels that get orange peel. I think I am looking at a clear/base type paint but I am still researching what paint to use and who supplys it here. The other thing is not having a spray booth. You can buy the fan blow up type portable unit but I want to build a "shed" where I can store 2 bikes and paint if this works out. My plan is to start with a foundation and floor this year and for now use plastic for the rest. Plans change (PC), I may find another spot to paint but we will see. I don't see me painting inside as my garage is full so I am looking at summer as a timeline but again PC sometimes. So sanding, filling and sanding is next. I have a electric sander, pneumatic sander and a block to take that on. So this part of the rebuild begins. Picture one is the worst of the plastic damage. Picture 2 is removing the side cowl decals defore sanding.

Lucky me. I found a local shop that allows people to use their space and equipment. They check you out first to make sure you have a good idea of what you are doing. I got set up at a small welding table with a vise and oxy-acetyene torch and I went to town. It took me 30 minutes to get the bends right. Double the time I thought it would take. I did a test fit with the gauges and front cowl and all looks good. One tip to the less experienced is to have a set of dies and taps to clean up corrupt threads. You don't want to mess up or cross thread those little brass looking inserts on the front cowl attachment points at the gauge cluster and windshield attachment points or anywhere else. I am s firm believer of "chasing threads". The plastic repair is complete so now on to the body work.

Indeed it does. For a clean looking bike with its plastics on I am surprise how dirty it is under its skin. Keep up the good job.

Like I thought the propane torch is not hot enough to get the metal hot enough to bend. Ill have to rent an oxyacetoline torch, find a shop or local due who has one. Oh I miss my old shop.