NakedViffer

Good job man, that beautiful. You end up with the 200 series roadsmart? Hows the handling?

Swapped over to Michelin from Dunlop. For the money, and if you really get it in the twisties, Pilot Powers ALL DAY.

Thats mostly true, except for the pollution part, gasoline produces hydrocarbons and NOx gasses when burnt, ethanol produces water vapor and co2. So it doesn't really pollute

You see, the problem is, I KNOW it will absorb water from the air. You aren't sure so you're googling. And now you're making me do work and search for proof, and I'm lazy and don't like to work http://www.eejitsguides.com/environment/ethanol-fuel.html Please read the fourth paragraph.

Not sure you can flip the triangles on a fourth gen.

Sorry guys, but the speed channel is at least partly full of shit, ethanol is ABSOLUTELY hygroscopic. Meaning it can and will absorb moisture from the atmosphere. And most manafacturers stopped using rubbers that get attacked by ethanol long before they actually started putting it in our regular gas. All our soft parts in the fuel system are made of Viton and are impervious to ethanol. Most of the info out there on Ethanol is bunk speculation from people who do nothing but read other peoples opinions and repeat what they heard. I know of several cars made in the early 90's that have been running E85 on stock fuel systems for years without issue. When you think about it, if they can do it with 85, 10% isn't gonna cause us any problems besides 3-4% power loss. Small engines can have problems with it because they make 5hp and less, and it gets magnified because they have no mechanism for ignition advance. which a less combustible fuel needs more of than gasoline.

Lead doesn't hurt Cat converters or o2 sensors, huh? I think you are the one who needs better info. What in the world would even possess you to run that gas in your bike, you get it for $2 a gallon or something?

I vote to ban Aselleck for bringing back this monstrosity.

Sorry for the confusion, I should have worded better I suppose. What I meant was I'm shooting for 175whp, but that figure may vary, I'll more than likely come in on the low side of things, but peak power isn't really what I'm after either, I'm interested in making a big fat torque curve that looks nice and flat from 5k to 12k RPM. I'll definitely start a build thread once the build commences at the end of this season.

PS: If somebody makes it work reliable and it gets tested with an oscilloscope to make sure everything is copasetic, I'll probably convert. I just like to put things together as cheaply as possible, while maintaining a decent amount of reliability. And so I deemed it an unnecessary expenditure until such time that I find out otherwise with my turbo setup. I'm not a black cloud, I just insist on doing everything for as little money as possible, having a family makes that a necessity.

so...if that's your tolerance, it's easily achieved by pulling the plugs. Back to the point. It would be great for those of us who are doing serious modifications where having one less thing to worry about would be great. I don't exactly understand what you are trying to say here, I assume its some sort of sarcasm that went way over my head. Maybe you misunderstood me, I'm not trying to shoot you guys down. I've been down this road myself. Truth of the matter is that we have no reason to believe our stock 4g ignitions aren't completely adequate. If you look at Honda's other applications, automotive or motorcycle, they're all stout. Hondas 1.6 sohc vtec D16z6(92-95), makes 125hp stock, but their ignition systems are perfectly adequate up to 400whp. And thats a single distributor coil running 4 cylinders. It was just a question of curiousity, nothing more. Seb, you're right on track, that kkk turbo is similar to my proposed setup And yes, I do plan on pretty much doubling crank horsepower. Its something I've been mapping out since I got this thing. I'll be utilizing a Mitsubushi TD05H-14B with a slightly ported 6cm hot side. Turbo flows 405cfm @1bar, aka 14.7psi, Its gonna see maybe 10-sh lbs of that but not before it goes through an intercooler. The main thing that threatens motors with stock internals is detonation. And the design of our motors even with the semi domed piston, has pretty good quench area, therefore I don't really see detonation becoming a problem until the turbo get puts out of its efficiency range. But I've already checked against the compressor map and I'm well within the bigger efficiency islands. I think its more than reasonable to extract another 80whp from this engine with forced induction. And still stay fairly reliable while doing it. If not, you'll see an 'engine wanted' posting from me about this time next year. I forsee a great many liter bike annihilations for the future.

I don't understand the drive behind getting 4g bikes to run COP.. I understand the space thing, and keeping a clean look, as I ride a naked bike. But other than that, why go to all the trouble? There isn't gonna be a noticeable performance increase.. Honda is notorious for having strong ignitions. I plan on making +/- 175whp on the stock individual 4g coils, all I plan on doing is upgrading the old wires on them and going a range colder on the plugs.

I'm at an upgrade point for the beginning of the season too. Got the bike in the basement and its in the process of being taken apart so I can clean, grease, tighten, fix everything. I like to strip it down before I start a new season and make sure everything is in order, I leave the motor in it, and other than that pretty much everything comes off. Just installed fresh Pilot Powers About to: Change all fluids try to fix some of my deteriorating body work Rebuild forks and convert stock springs to a linear rate .95kg Install a 1050lb spring on my 954 shock and install that Install my Micron exhaust, getting hassled about the open header finally Get Bar end mirrors Install a lighter socket for my TomTom so I don't have to rely on the battery Clean out the UNI filter Fresh set of NGk's Trying to make sure I'm good and ready for my first TMAC attendance this year.

I just cut the tubes off the flanges with a hacksaw and filled the holes with epoxy, call me cheap. :shrug:

To HispanicSlammer: Just keep in mind when going to adjust the clutch because your wheel is rolling. Its 100% normal for your wheel to roll when off the ground and the motor is running. Every motorcycle in the world does it( ok, at least 8 out of 10), its only a problem if its spinning faster than normal, and when you brake it or stop it from moving it affects engine rpm at all. Otherwise I wouldn't be concerned about it.

Looks like you can remove the pin on that pitbull stand and flip it so you can have the handle in the front, no?

Sounds like a decent color combo, although I haven't seen the mag, maybe you can get somebody on here good with Photoshop to do a chop for you to see how it looks on the bike. I'm planning on painting mine over the winter too, just trying to figure out my tail swap options before I settle on color(s).

I wasn't poking fun or challenging what you said. If anything I was volunteering supporting information. I hadn't realized it was so old either, I honestly thought is was Sept '11.. I'd tell you good job, but I'll wait until you get your undies out of a twist.

I would really enjoy a set of these, I'm 6'4" and about 225. But I end up laying over a lot and dragging my feet, a size thirteen can only tuck in so much.. Maybe just use them for longer trips and pull em off when you wanna play. I suppose I can experiment, but then again I'll probably make my own too.

Good price on those, mind me asking where you picked them up from?

Yeah, 70 might be a bit much, if you lost that with the body conversion, then my bike has got to be at least 125lbs lighter than stock.. Which I honestly estimate the bike to be around 400, so you might be right. What do you guys think, is there 400lbs of VFR left there?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-09-Honda-VFR800-Interceptor-Exhaust-Header-OEM-/390155925131?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ad71af68b