Cogswell

The only thing I can think of is that the angles of the flare on the tube and the fitting may not match. The manufacturer may have some insight in to that.

That has been my experience exactly.

With the voltages reversed, it seems surprising it will run at all.

One size criteria some owners use is whether it will hold a helmet. Tho my TC will hold one, I never use it for that. It can be nice to to be able to have it safely stored when away from the bike.

Those cam bearings were really roached. That's very unusual - even high mileage engines don't see that. Could it have been lack of lubrication? Agreed with new CCTs. "Rebuilding" them is just over stretching an already fatigued spring - new ones are the way to go. Hence why many of us live our gear driven cam motors! Best with it.

The photo below is a VTEC cutaway which might help you visualize things going on inside. A video of it running and the the movement in the tensioner you describe might be helpful. If as you say the camshaft was "dislodged", something catastrophic must have happened. A bent valve usually means that either that it was stuck and was bent by the force of the cam pushing on it, or the cam timing was or became off and the valve contacted the piston. There's a youtube video with a earlier VFR cutaway, and the clearances are very tight, demanding spot on cam timing for it to avoid catastrophe. Before replacing anything, I would want to know what caused the bent valve in the 1st place. Without knowing that you might be chasing symptoms vs solving a problem. If the valve did contact the piston, you would surely have noted that when the head was off. If that's the case, it's time for a replacement motor vs trying to rehab the one you have. You can go to the downloads section here and for free download the VTEC service manual which will provide you with the procedure to remove / replace the cam chains and guides.

Once you have a topcase you'll wonder how you did without it. Despite the fact that I'm not crazy about how the TC looks on my 6th gen, I find myself keeping it on all the time - I use it constantly. I sort of have a love / hate relationship with it, but the utility of it wins out. Good group photo. I'm not sure you could have a much more diverse line up of bikes.

That's it!

Someone on here has posted a photo of a black 3rd gen with white wheels - looks killer. Can't recall if it's the 92 paint scheme or respray tho. Have to agree that Honda really nailed it with the white '93 - pure magic - just a certain something. The '92 wheels are almost a dead ringer for the 2008 color. When I got my '92 8 spoke, I just mounted and tire and bolted it on - no one ever mentioned or asked if it wasn't the original 2008 color. The parts fiche described it as "Iron Nail Silver".

They also should not be allowed to drive, vote or reproduce, but somehow they manage to keep doing so . . .

Thanks for sharing that - a sobering reminder. We've had a few members who weren't so lucky. It's good that you count your blessings.

IIRC reducing the ratio of ethylene glycol reduces the boiling point a bit, but the water replacing that volume has a higher specific heat index so can carry away more heat so boiling, even at a lower temp is much less likely. I've been running that ratio in my bikes, working fine. If you start with premix 50/50, to get the 75/25 ratio, add 1/2 the total system volume of premix, that will provide 1/4 each of the water / glycol system totals (.5 × .5 of each). Then fill the remaining half of the system volume with demineralized water to bring the water portion to .25 + .5 = .75. If unsure of system totals, measure the mix separately in a container and add as needed.

^^^ That. Or, if you really want to do the best mod for your bike, have Jamie Daugherty re-work your forks and shock to suit your weight and riding style. He will replace everything as well as custom valve it to match new linear springs. As for servicing the bike, find a place you can for sure not need to move it and get it propped up as below. I used a piece of wood to evenly distribute the load on the headers and sneaked the scissor jack out of the GF's Camry to hold it in place. You can do it!

Myself and others use the Honda automotive coolant with good success. The dye is a slightly different shade of green than the powersports version, but it's otherwise the same. Sold in the US by the gallon, it's far more economical than the powersports counterpart.

Agreed on RB. It auto adjusts on the fly, whereas PC must be manually adjusted after capturing data then done again until the desired result is obtained. I did have some RB / MTB trouble - there was some slight surging around 5,000 rpm. I later found that the cable from the wideband sensor was melting against one of the rear primary header tubes (and I suppose grounding) so hoping that repairing that and keeping it out of the way will get things dialed in.

FWW, the last time I brought some M/C parts in to the US from the UK, there was no duty assessed. Some internet searching will turn up the treaty that sets those and you can go find the chapter and verse and see what it says now - it may have changed. The exchange rate and shipping though can be harsh.

Apologies if I missed it - I see mention of the clean / repaint of the forks (looks great, BTW) - just wondering about the front wheel. Looks 5/6 gen to my somewhat trained eye. I've long been curious about backwards / forward compatibility of front wheels. If true those are 3g forks and a 5/6G front wheel / rotor, is that a direct bolt in or are any mods required?

I've never been a fan of the over the chain guard versions. I might he more inclined if they covered the entire OEM guard, but the half length ones don't do it for me. . Accessories for these bikes are getting fewer and further between. If Harris no longer makes them, you may be out of luck.

I'm also in the no-nanny-aids-for-me camp, however I do like ABS. That would likely come in to play in a panic situation where time to think / process what's happening is limited or non existent. It only needs to save me once. Self canceling turn signals, eco/ sport mode, TPMS, even TC on a 100 hp bike and the rest I can do without.

Correct - while similar in appearace, 6G mirrors will not fit 5 and earlier gens.

He takes phone calls if available - might ring him and see what he says.

One thing I might add about the midi fuse set up is that the ring terminals Jack has on his wiring for the breaker attach directly to a midi fuse holder so no cutting was required. Just remove the nuts retaining the breaker, attach to the new fuse holder, place the fuse in and tighten the nuts. No cutting, soldering, taping or shrink wrapping required. Downside is that midi fuses are not likely to be found in parts stores, so if you'll be a long way from home best to carry a set of extras.

Here is a screenshot from Roadster Cycles with those two plus the FH020 all together. Hard to tell if the 020 is any smaller than the 775, but it looks close. Also, in the video below, at the 11:20 mark, he talks about the 775 and why he would / would not use it. YMMV on that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXbZZZWLtzY My personal experience with the 847 on my G6 has not been as good as I expected. With the OEM 6th gen R/R I would get around low 13 volts (13.0, 13.2 or so) at idle with the rad fan running. Now with the 847, it's never in the 13's - pretty much only battery voltage or less unless I get the bike moving and really bring the rpm's up. If it really does place less stress on the stator and I get longer life out of it or it's more reliable, that's a win. That, however, may transcend my own expected life span, so I may never find out if that's the case. Otherwise, it does seem to regulate the voltage just fine. Jack claims it's my stator, but I find that difficult to believe as the only variables changed were the wiring and the R/R, so how could it be the stator? The other thing I would point out from my experience with it is that he ships the 847 with an auto-resetting circuit breaker. My two observations about that are 1. Why bother? If the thing auto resets and the short that caused it is still there, it's just going to keep resetting and possibly destroy the circuit or cause a fire. I'd prefer it go out and then allow me to find and fix it. Manual reset breakers are available, and I tried one. On my G6 the only place it would go was tucked in the frame right behind the battery above the #2 and #4 headers. The heat from those would cause the breaker to trip with no circuit faults. It had not occurred to me that they don't care the source of the heat that trips it - the circuit or some outside source. So, 2. I went to a midi style fuse (easy to find on line). They do require a wrench to get the retaining nuts loose, but it is a heavy duty fuse with lots of contact area - so far so good on that. I was not able to find much, if any positive things people say about auto-resetting breakers, and I don't know Jack's rationale for using them. Maybe someone here knows a lot more about that than I do. Anyway, just my $.02.

How do you keep it so clean? I have a hugger and that area on my bike still gets cruddy with road tar, dirt, etc.

I have an 847 mounted with this on my G6 - works great!