Rush2112

This may be a silly question, you being an engineer wannabee soontabee... is there enough metal in the throttle bodies to remove 2 mm from the walls without compromising integrity? Do you have 40mm Honda parts bin throttle plates lined up? If so, please share the model

What size are the throttle bodies on an RC45? Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk

There's also a couple of Suzuki autos mentioned in post #21 for the element... the frame is from the Honda oem filterSent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk

Don't know what the OP is expecting, but I'm up to 107rwhp with a revised inlet/ramair, mild cam job based on RC45 timing & a freer flowing exhaust system with custom dyno fuelling. I just fitted some shorter velocity stacks & have a couple of other ideas in progress, hopefully we can push that number higher, but might take a while to complete, as winter is coming :( My goal in this project was not to necessarily to reach a target HP number, but rather to see what the results would be IF. The start of the project came out of the Torocharger project as I wanted to investigate what a bit of refining could do to our engines. The engine would essentially still be in its original skin and within OEM designed forces. Bump for an update ?Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk

Thanks Coderighter... I missed this the first time around. Looking forward to applying the learnings to my 5th gen project. Did you get your fi map sorted on the top end? Are you using the Turbo City FPR? Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk

+1 LEDs have very narrow wavelengths of emitted light. Even the white LEDs don't have a lot of red in them so you should use the red LEDs through red lens otherwise they will be dimmer. White LEDs are a mixture of a few wavelengths that the eyes perceive as white but they don't cover the full spectrum. There's more available red light to reflect off a red needle using a red LED so it should stand out more... at least the physics makes sense... Amber LED on a red needle might make the needle look black because there is little or no red wavelength to be reflected... kinda like how tropical fish lose there color the deeper you go and the other wavelengths of light are filtered out by the water... shine a light on them with the right wavelengths and the colors pop Quote from TheLEDLight.com, "...using colored LEDs to illuminate similarly colored lenses produces better visibility and overall appearance."

I believe it is the right but I can't confirm right now... I'm 1000 miles from home in a hotel and I can't make out in my pics if the colored wire is left and black ground is right... also, I'm not an electrical expert, but I'm not sure it matters on the 2 connector coils. Found a picture of the CBR 1000 coil wire harness on eBay and the black w/ white stripe (ground) is on the right if the plastic clip is up, so the right prong on the COP should be the ground

If you don't mind me asking... How much did the Brembo clutch m/c assembly set you back?

Thanks for the feedback on the Factory Pro Shift Star... I've been curious about that one and have considered it myself. Currently, I'm working on BLS's advice to improve my shifting technique first! Glad it is working well for you! If you're like me you'll love the SS brake lines... I went with Speigler and they made a world of difference in the brake feel and power. I can brake with one or two fingers now.

Don't know... but they do have ceramic bearing transmission kits for CBR600 & CBR1000 If they don't do anything useful then why use them for racing?

I would be less skeptical about the friction coated ceramics. Not all bearings are created equal. It is a bit hard to imagine that the rotating mass in a bearing is at all significant compared to the rest of the wheel, but friction is friction. Maybe 5HP from switching out the transmission bearings is more likely and not the wheel bearings. In the post I thought they said they gained 12hp from changing the transmission bearing and applying the internal Microblue coatings. Although the rotating mass is reduced, I don't think that is where the friction reduction comes from......according to the Oak Ridge National Laboratory: "Silicon nitride ball bearings are harder than metal which reduces contact with the bearing track. This results in 80% less friction, 3 to 10 times longer lifetime, 80% higher speed, 60% less weight, the ability to operate with lubrication starvation, higher corrosion resistance and higher operation temperature, as compared to traditional metal bearings." I think many of us are looking at wheel friction when we lift a wheel off the ground and spin it... at these times there is very little load on the bearing and most likely the majority of friction is the seal. Put the wheel on the ground, under a couple of hundred pound load, at 120+ mph and there is significant amount of drag from friction in the bearings... we can reduce that by some amount, possibly up to 80%, with a performance ceramic bearing. This has been researched by people way smarter than me and applied by racing teams throughout motorsports with positive results. It's not as sexy as pumping up the engine... but it makes more power available to move the bike forward faster.

yeah rear wheel only because the front wheel is clamp in .. You can't dyno a front wheel of course, but are you saying there are no friction loses there when riding at speed? Is it far fetched to extrapolate and infer that there is lost power in the front wheel due to bearing friction? Worldwide Bearings web site just has contact info, no ability to search, price, or shop online

... less friction = less wasted power. With wheels spinning at >2000 rpm that heat and friction adds up... apparently this guy dyno'd it and got the results to prove it

Those are the hybrid bearings and I installed them on my 5th gen front wheel about 1 1/2 yrs ago when my stock wheel bearings went bad... love them! Smooth as glass and have never given them a second thought. I'm a happy convert and was planning on adding them to my project track bike... not right off the bat, but as a future upgrade once I get it running and the suspension sorted out. Price has come down a little since I last bought them... about -10% I bought mine from VXB and a quick check for the VFR front wheel bearings shows they have gone up ~10%... the decreased price was for the set I was looking at for my R1 wheel. VFR front wheel bearing: http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8172

From my first post, "Benefits are they are more durable (4 times more than steel balls), less friction, lower manufacturing tolerances, and more heat tolerant with less thermal expansion." Do you know if Tommy used full ceramic bearings where the race and balls are made from ceramic or hybrid ceramic bearings where only the balls are ceramic and the races are stainless steel? I chased the links but two off them wouldn't load.

Welcome! ...and thanks for letting us see that beautiful bike again. I'm with Seb, love to hear the exhaust :)

Nice! Kill two birds with one lamp... heat and illuminate :D

To modify your rake to work within the design parameters of above mentioned GSXR/CBR are you going to cut your headstock from the frame and weld it back at that desired 24* angle? If not, perhaps an eccentric in the steering stem mount will allow for enough rake correction. I'm hoping with a little elevation of rear ride height, and possibly lowering the front a little, I want to see what kind of rake I can achieve... I'm hoping to get down from the stock 25.5* to close to 24*. I can calculate and spreadsheet it to death, but until I have the parts assembled and start tweaking it is all theoretical. I'm not currently looking at cutting and re-welding the frame... that is kinda outside the scope and budget of my modest attempt :) For me, it will be easier to tell what can be achieved when I have a rolling chassis... i uncrated my engine and swapped the lower cushion for a 6th gen today... the real fun starts next weekend... temperatures permitting, I don't have a heating solution for my 2 car garage.

I've spent hours researching offsets and trail numbers and reading Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible. The data shows most of the best handling bikes have around a 30mm offset with high 90s to low 100s trail values (CBRs, GSXRs, R1s... early R1s and RC51s are exceptions) and rakes of 23* to 24*; this was also confirmed by a reliable suspension expert. The stock 5th gen VFR chassis geometry doesn't cut it for this application... and it wasn't designed too. No fault, no grandiose claims that I can engineer better than Honda. Just me attacking a challenge to take something I love and adapt it to a new, more specific application. Based on this, and some more expert input, I'm going to shoot for an initial set-up of 30mm offset, around 102mm trail, and ~24* rake on my 5th gen track bike. My '09 ZX14 50/54 USD forks are scheduled for delivery tomorrow... so I can start the measuring and wrenching and stop the jabbering!!! Build thread to follow...

When using the CBR929/954 for a fork swap are there any threads exposed above the top nut? If yes, how far does it extend past the nut? If it doesn't extend beyond the nut is there complete engagement of all the nut threads with the steering stem?

Thanks Man! Anybody know if the RC51 is the same? Will the VFR (or RC51 or 929/954) stem be long enough if the custom triples are... let's say, an 1" thick aluminum alloy?