Switchblade

Yeah cant imagine mc oil of any kind lasting 8000 miles.

+1 just curious to see if I'm changing mine to soon. I normally haven't gone that far either. In this case I took a 4,000 + mile trip so there wasn't much choice. Had the trip been further I might have found some place along the way to change it. The longer interval is what made me want to have the analysis done. Yeah i agree sometimes have to go long.

So you had 4500 miles on T6 oil, thats a little long for me, i always try to change mine with T6 at 2000 miles(bike has 60,000 mile) but now I know nobody rides the sameway. It would be interesting to see what the T6 looks like at 2500 miles. Dont like the metal in the oil..

Less rotating mass is a very big deal.

What kind of rear shock ? The overall stance looks high but might be the angle of the picture.

About time HONDA ...

When my customers complain about shifting my experience it can be traced to clutch drag and not the oil... I doubt a rider can tell the difference in a BLIND shift test... usually a rider develops a feeling about an oil based on how enjoyable they are traveling down the perverted highway... like toilet paper you can roll freely or wipe sh*t off someone's A hole... So here's my method to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear... 4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake... does this action drag down the engine rpms??? If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check for bubbles... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... In conclusion After 25 years dealing with customers I think its not a question of oil so much as a question of technique and clutch... My RC30 and RC45 customers will ask for the same slick shifting oil that made their friend's RC30 and RC45 shift so smoothly after it left the Busy Little Shop... I hate to break it to them but it wasn't the oil that made the difference it was rider technique and the elimination of clutch drag... so before I will dump one slick shifting oil for the next slick shifting oil I work with them on their technique and their clutch... then and only then will they understand that they were fooled into thinking it was the oil when in fact it was technique and clutch... I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early form of seem-less shifting... So what the Hell oil are you using Larry??? DUDE YOUR LATE AGAIN Just kiddin.

+1 T6 works great on my bike, never had problem with shifting.

Gates we dont laugh at people here on VFRD, I have member of many mc website and by far this the BEST !!!!

I am gonna get mine on soon !!!!!!

Yeah just like the early Magna's with the cam bearing and cams failures.

lknsdvoinbpoissdpojp oskd ncoisndppndcpon owinc[oido[in]0indec poimned0iohjwe]0992 ME TOO !!!!!!!

WOW dont know how it stayed together.

You have been swarfed.

Thats terrible HAND BUILT MY A$$ !!!!!!!!!!!!

Day of Days !!!!

I'm confused how did we get to cooking steaks ????? $100.00 that is way over priced but if they work thats great. They have about $8.00 - $10.00 worth of labor and materials in that product. Wow use to be in that industry.

Yeah me too WELCOME .....