FJ12Ryder

Hi FJ12Ryder, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Sounds like you had better luck with the MityVac than I have ever had. I gave up on using it, as I could never get stop air getting pas the threads on the bleed screws with using some kind of sealant. And I didn't like the idea of some contaminant getting into the system. In truth, it wasn't that bad of a deal to bleed them, but full disclosure, I didn't do the PCV valve. And I did it when I replaced all the rubber lines with stainless.

IMO the main issue is when the carb float bowls dry up, then you get varnish and gunk which cause problems. But honestly I don't think three months is going to be a serious problem. But if you can run the carbs dry, that would be best.

I dunno, looks like a good attractant for sand and dirt to collect on, and work their abrasive magic. 🙂

Notice how many times the words "may be" "might" appear in that article. And such an unbiased source: Tesla Fan Boys. 🙂

Believe it or not, but I had a 1971 Triumph Bonneville, and the crankcase breather tube terminated just above the rear sprocket. Did a right nice job of lubing the chain. You're in good company. 🙂

Hawke Oiler and 140/70 gear lube. Changed the last chain with 25,000 miles on it. It probably had another few thousand miles left in it, but I wanted to try the 520 conversion. Running the DID 520 chain, 17 tooth countershaft, and 45 rear sprocket. Actually feels pretty good. Tried chain wax years ago on one bike or another, and had lousy results, but that was a long time ago. The formula has prolly been changed for the better.

Has it been working, and it just stopped working? Which sensor have you replaced? Are you having any other electrical issues?

Once you're past about 30 mph, what difference will it make? That's why you have gears. Acceleration too slow, drop down a gear. But change the gearing that much and you make interstate riding more of a pain. And multi-hundred mile trips also more of a pain. I really like the versatility of the VFR, why cripple it?

Well, the fact of the matter is that to some people, the bike is more than just a big toy. They actually get used for useful stuff too. Not everyone considers their bike just another jetski to ride around, and around, and around, the lake.

My gas mileage was the same, or slightly better, after the change. Can't say if you went to a 16-tooth countershaft sprocket.

The 45 rear sprocket is the way to go. IMO it should have come from the factory that way.

FWIW, I just ordered a complete set of 520 DID chain, 17 tooth front sprocket, and 45 tooth rear sprocket from SprocketCenter. After 25,000 miles on the 530 DID chain, I figured it's time for a new chain. And I'm curious how noticeable the conversion to 520 chain will be, if even noticeable at all. And having a flat tire repaired.

This all makes me wonder why we don't see all these exploded motorcycle engines along side the road from using non-motorcycle specific oil. LOL Nope, mostly hooey, and a reason to try to sell overly expensive oil to gullible folk. Bike engines now are not much different from bike engines from 20 or 30 years ago. Metallurgy is better and parts, generally, are better machined, but DOHC engines, wet clutches, and motor oil lubed gearboxes are still with us. If anything the engines are easier on their oil since the engine temps are more evenly controlled, as opposed to so many air cooled engines from the 80's. Nope, just refuse to buy into it...literally. 🙂

Nah, she didn't move it an inch. Her helmet strap is latched, but loose as a goose. No body rides with a helmet strap that loose. And you notice none of those shots from the front were high enough to actually see the rider? Juuuuust a little too low to see a face. Nice bike though.

I guess I'm on the fence with all this electronic control stuff. I know it could keep some accidents from happening, but at the same time I feel that skill should enter into the equation somewhere. I'll have to admit that I'm really ambivalent about it. Peggy's Spyder has a lot of electronic controls and they can be a pain sometimes. You end up riding a certain way to keep from activating the "Nanny" as it's called.

"I would be interested in learning algorithm that arrives at that 60% figure." Yeah, me too. Wonder if it comes from that area near their back pocket? 🙂

The oil drains out of the sump, this has nothing to do with the crank since the crank isn't submerged in oil. So draining the oil will have no effect on "heat soak". The oil pump is going to be empty, whether drained hot or cold. No difference.

Well, consider the fact that there is a fair amount of oil sitting up around the valves and such. Draining cold means that all the contaminants have settled out of the oil up there and will wait for the new fresh oil so they can continue to circulate. And possibly the oil in the pan has had a chance for some of the gunk to settle to the floor of the oil pan and will sit there and not be flushed out. Nope, I'll stick to warm oil changes.

Changing oil hot means that nothing has had the time to drop out of suspension, the water is not condensed onto various metal parts, and it flows easier as a bonus.

Interesting, but I'll still stick to hot oil changes. I don't put the plug back in as soon as the oil stops coming out in a steady stream, which is basically what they did. Mine usually sits for an hour or so to drain as much as possible. I mean it makes sense that you'll get less oil out if you don't give the oil time to drain down from the upper end. There's a reason they tell you not to check the oil immediately after shutting off the engine. I use a Fumoto drain plugs on my 4 wheel vehicles and they usually sit at least a half hour before I shut off the drain, just to let as much oil as possible drain down. I wonder what the results would be if they had given each an hour, or even a half hour to drain. Thanks for posting that article up.

100% no complaints. Everything you do is greatly appreciated by me.

Bad clunking sound in your rear end? Could be lack of fiber in your diet. Sorry, couldn't help myself. 🙂

Sprocket Center has them: SprocketCenter Whoops, looks like the rear is Out of Stock. Sorry.

A 10 mm bolt is about the same diameter as a 3/8 bolt, and the 3/8 bolt recommended torque setting is right around 23 lb.ft. So 23 lb.ft. for a 10 mm bolt would be about right. But a grade 8 3/8 bolt is about 44 lb.ft.