Peto

I've been really slacking fellas, I know. All the parts are collecting dust on my floor. My bike isn't too "wind swept" either. I absolutely will get this mod done and post up the progress/results. Got a lot on my plate right now. oldgeezer: Is this the titanium color? pic

Wow. Lots of progress. Real fine work on the switch wiring. I would ditch the blue ignition wires and go for plain black ones. The oil lines/fittings look great. Overall, the bike looks fantastic so far. You're moving or an investment house?

Looks like fun. Always good times up by you Seb.

Really nice. Thanks. How the road goes over that mountain in the first picture is just crazy.

:biggrin: :cool: :laugh:

Good read. Picture with the narrow bridge is neat. Crazy with the bikes in the tree like that...Those sight lines look great, reminds me of Ohio. Gotta get down to AR soem time.

Good stuff BLS.

:blink: well said.

144 is a great road, a little funny pavement in place, but if you ride the length of it it is an experience. I remembered that section that was lined with trees, really cool.

Looks like a good time gents. 326 heading north is a good road. YoshiHNS, was this tree-lined picture taken on 144 ?

What road? I don't know nuthin' about no road. :rolleyes:

Wow. You are one talented guy. Really nice work.

So if I tap directly to the (R/B wires) ignition switch...... Will I be good to go without relays and other such stuff?..... If so, should I, solder, or use some kind of wire-to-wire connecter?...... Monk Monk, don't tap your actual ignition wire, it will work, but you don't want to introduce potential problems on that wire. Instead tap an ignition switched wire. If you don't want to be able to turn it on with the bike off, then the best way is to do as fotomoto suggests. Use a standard 20 amp 12V relay. Wire the relay to the battery (+ to +) (- to - or the frame) Then tap into your license plate light for the signal wire to turn the relay on. Then wire the voltmeter to the relay (1 wire on the switched output of the relay, the other wire will share either power or ground of the relay depending on if you wired switched ground or switched power). Wire tie the relay somewhere nice and covered. Personally, I solder all wire to wire connections...

1.5 Volts? Thats over 12% loss. Something doesn't seem right with that. Even taking into account the vast amount of cheap connectors honda uses that seems way outta whack.

A slight voltage loss and a current loss will occur due to increased resistance (think friction) in a particular length of wire at some point "downstream" of the battery. With our bikes though, it will be extremely little. The wires' gauge is too low and the length of wires are not long enough. IMO.

Anyplace you have 12V power is fine. You may wire it to ignition switched power, e.g. tailight, or license plate light which will turn off with your key, or, you may wire it directly to the battery with your own switch inline on either the power or ground wire. The second way would allow you to see the voltage before turning the bike on, very handy, but it also allows you to make a mistake and leave it on, it uses very little power and would take a long time to prevent the bike from starting. Ground it anywhere on the frame or any ground wire. Hope this helps.

Well I got it home hooked it up to the pc, then played with it, definitly the throttle postion wire was jacked up cause I could bend the harness and it would change TP% on the screen. I dont know how to unhook the wires on the thing - cut them off shorter and rewire them into the jack? I accidently cut a wire too removing the tape. maybe cut it at both ends and solder in a complete jumper wire...

Really good write up. I enjoyed reading it. That pic of the Blue Ridge with the road winding into the foggy distance is great. Ever work out your PC2 issue?