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I'm sure he'd be up for an all expenses paid trip to the US with his multimeter.

Well as you dream something uninspected happen. Found this mint tail section for reasonable money! So orginal tail will stay 😁

A big +1 to that! I always figured if I bought another VFR I'd just ask Grum if I could ship the whole bike to him in SE Australia and have him sort out the electrics! 😉

Haha, I stand corrected, Italians doing Italian things. But at least reliability is now at least very good as we both seem to agree. Hope to do a Feather River run this summer up there in the northern Sierra near you, it's been a few years.

So the Ground block "looks good"! Did you happen to measure the two genuine Ground wires I mentioned within the block to ensure they are Properly Grounded? Have you checked the frame Grounds I mentioned? My last suggestions on your issue, I'm running out of ideas............. 1. MEASURE the ECM Grounds I've mentioned! A9 and A20 both Green/Pink wires AND B1 a Green wire. Unplug the ECM connectors, set you meter to the lowest Ohms range Black lead on the Battery Negative (Not Frame) probe these wires at the ECM connector. DO YOU READ ZERO OHMS?????? Refer to the attached partial wiring diagram and the ECM plug layout picture. 2. Verify you have Solid 12v at the Black/White wire at the ECM plug B8 Ignition to ON. 3. Check all ECM Pins and sockets for any sign of corrosion or oxidization due to moisture ingress. 4. Verify you have continuity/Zero Ohms on the FCR Ground wire Brown/Black from the ECM A5 to the FCR Relay Base. 5. Unplug one of the Sensors, be that the MAP, IAT, BARO or ECT. Turn on ignition, have the Sidestand DOWN. Does the ECM issue the appropriate Diagnostic Code for the sensor? If NOT this is further evidence your ECM could be toast. 6. If all Grounds, Power and wire continuity are tested as OK. Then there is a high probability your ECM is toast. INFO - As complex as the ECM is it is an incredibly reliable device. Generally it's Grounds, Power Supply, Sensors or wiring and connections that are at fault, rarely the ECM itself. Destroyed ECM's that I'm aware of have been caused by Overvoltage from a faulty R/R and the self induced incorrect jumpering of the FCR relay for Fuel Pump ops and Flow testing. Incorrectly placing 12v from the Black/White to the ECM grounding wire Brown/Black causing a dead short taking out the ECM. Good Luck and Happy Fault Finding!

Front fender looks like it will have tire contact when you install a new tire & run it up to speed...

I'm still getting late-December dealer emails about Italy shutting down for 3 weeks over the holidays. From last December: URGENT UPDATE: Plan NOW for the DUCATI warehouse closure in Italy - coming next week! Ducati has notified us that the global Ducati parts & accessories warehouse in Italy will be CLOSED for accepting new orders from Dec 20th through Jan 7th! NO OUTGOING SHIPMENTS will be leaving Italy for nearly 3 FULL WEEKS! The fuel sensor on my '20 MS is currently going out, but it is under warranty still. Still fun bike, has been trouble free other than the fuel sensor acting up.

vfrcapn is correct. I'm on the 3rd fuel tank sensor on my 2017 Multistrada, although to be fair it is the only issue of any kind I've had with the bike after 26K miles, and it obviously is not mission-critical. They replaced the first one for free but I had to pay for the 2nd one. However, that was four years ago, and their claim that it was finally fixed with a re-design appears to be true. Ducati had a rep for manufacturing quality control--the dealer where I bought my 2002 VFR dropped Ducati because they couldn't get repair parts in August when the factory shut down for a month! But that is in the rear view mirror, the last 15 years or so they are as good as any other manu, and seem to have upgraded the build process by learning from owners Audi/VW.

This is a standard option on any Ducati over the last 15+ years.

Well, I think the prize goes to Presson. I removed the airbox and was looking to take the wax unit apart but then thought I'd just give it a proper warm through first whilst the tank was raised and with much of the gubbins out of the way so I could watch it and it looked like the piston/rod was sticking so I sprayed it with WD40, moved it around by hand a little then tried again and it idles fine when warm. I have yet to take her out on the road to try her out but that will have to wait. Balanced SVs whilst I was there too. Can folk confirm this is the correct way now we all realised we were doing it wrong for 20-odd years? So thanks Presson, much obliged!

I had a similar experience after using Risolone coolant flush. After bringing temp up to about 160 degrees,idle went and stayed around 2500 to 3000 RPM. Repeating shutdown and restart again and again,I immediately let cool a bit and drained/flushed entire system and restarted with plain water. I did this 3 times before normal RPM operation returned with clean anti freeze. The wax unit must be very sensitive I concluded especially after reading this post. Scared the living crap out of me. This may not pertain exactly to this post,but has some similarities.

There's a balance involved between the starter valves, the idle stop screw and the wax unit nut. If you mess with one, you may mess up the other inadvertantly. Another member unwisely messed with the "unadjustable" starter valve screw (#4?) when synching the throttle bodies and closed those down more than they should be (but they were all nicely in balance 🙂). That resulted in the idle stop screw having to be wound in in much more than usual to get the warm idle correct to hold the starter valves open enough. And that resulted in the starter valve opening mechanism being held unnaturally open when the engine was cold to the point where the wax unit wasn't adding any cold opening to the SVs at all. Which means the cold start idle speed was unpleasantly low. If you can verify that the wax unit is changing it's length as the coolant temperature is changing but just not by enough to lift the SVs open when cold, then I would have a crack at changing the unadjustable nut, but at the very least mark the "factory" position before you start so if/when it all goes tits-up, you can return to the original setting.

FYI, the physical copy of the service manual I have says DO NOT mess with the lock nut. MOTWYW

Am I having a stroke, or was that painted KTM orange? 🤨