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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/17/2023 in all areas

  1. Reaching out to the moderators/admin crew. Is there any possibility of removing all the frustrating airline ticket scam/spam bullshit that is in the 8gen forum? It starts on Page 2 and goes through to Page 8. Many Thanks Gents. Regards Grum
    5 points
  2. Life with 3.5 and 1 year old boys is not the easiest. Couple months behind schedule, but these will get a final wipe down and bolt up tomorrow. With luck it'll go smooth enough to get a first startup with the test can (cheap 'SC Project' 8" off Amazon)
    5 points
  3. Hello group! Just bought a 2010 VFR1200F yesterday from a guy in WV. It was a long day of driving but I think it will be worth it. Very excited to start riding the newest bike. I also have a 2008 ST1300 and I think this will go great along side of that, and satisfying the need for speed. Looking forward to perusing this website for help and stuff. Jim
    3 points
  4. #1 & #3 are both going on tonight. Not quite permanently yet, but I'm happy with how they came out.
    2 points
  5. Seat nearly done. A few more hours to get it 100%, but not bad for never done upholstery before.
    2 points
  6. Wasn't planning to showcase too much, but hard work is nice to showcase at the end of the day. Quick history of the bike: Bought in June of 21, I enjoyed it that summer, fall and winter, right up until a Prius decided it wanted into the parking lot to my right, turned into me and totaled my poor 8th gen. After a 4mo recovery, physical, emotional and some financial turbulence, I settled on rebuilding as a streetfighter. Looking to have it back on the road in another week or two. Teasers before it's shakedown and full picture dump.
    1 point
  7. Congrats on that beautiful VFR1200 and welcome to the forum from Ravenna, OH! 🙂 This forum is for all VFRs, but yes, there are probably more 800s out there than any other generations. I'm a former 6th gen. owner myself, but stuck around here because the people are great!
    1 point
  8. Well it's supposed to be dry tomorrow so I plan on riding it to work. Tires are pretty worn so I'm gonna take it easy until I get the new ones on. I ordered a set of Michelin Road 6's for it. Yeah I can't wait! I know it's late in the season but there are still some days to ride.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. That's a beautiful looking 2010 1200, hope it lives up to expectations and serves you well. Does it come with all the service history?
    1 point
  11. I've always wondered what one of those would be like to ride. Let us know how you like it.
    1 point
  12. I'm cornering the market on the 2000s from the coast.
    1 point
  13. Actually I was changing out comp. & rebound valves, but no reason you couldn't use this method for the same or just a quick oil change. :beer: Click on any pic to enlarge! First off place bike on center stand and place a jack under the front of the exhaust headers and unload the front wheel(off ground). Then remove the axle (I did not remove the calipers or wheel) Place a drain pan under the fork leg (I suggest only doing one side at a time) and remove the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg that holds the dampen rod assy. Some oil will drain at this point, now remove fork cap and allow the remaining oil to drain. Now you can remove the entire cartridge assy. (Note these are F4i forks on my track Vtec) At this point you can clean & rebuild the cartridge assy on the bench (I changed both the comp. & rebound valve assy & fork springs) and with empty tubes, you can easily flush out the fork tubes while still on the bike. If you want/need to work on either valve you need to push the lower valve(comp) up into the bottom of the cartridge to expose the inner c-clip, once removed (C-clip) you just push everything out the bottom of the cartridge with the upper rod. I reinstall the fork Cap and tighten the bottom bolt again. Repeat procedure on the other fork! At this point I reinstall the axle, then remove both caps & springs allowing me to add and set fork oil level. Pump/stroke the dampen rod several times until oil comes out the top of the inner tube, then reinstall springs and fork caps. Pump the forks a few times w/the brake on and tighten the last axle pinch bolt and your done! (Be sure to clean off any thing that may have got on rotors, pads or calipers) Nothing to it, quick & clean! :dry: BR's method 2213. Note: On oil level: I've already done all the calculations to achieve correct oil levels while forks are still on the bike! It amounts to ADDING 10mm from measured oil level height to give true level. ie: measure 100mm level on bike, actual is 110mm. You will need to add an additional 10cc of oil to compensate for the fork angle. If you have the actual cc amount (like 500cc's per leg) then you don't have to worry about it.
    1 point
  14. Valve seat dropped on the rear cilinder of my 🦘
    0 points
  15. Well the pulse generators testing will need to wait to spring, the carbs still flooding so no sense to have it running so. Needs new float chamber O-rings first.
    0 points
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