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Front wheel install axle flush on left forkleg


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I'm the person that started the thread on the other forum. I had some concerns after having a shop mount new tires for me, and after looking at what's going on down there you can see the axle has a chamfered edge on the left that when tightened pushes all the moving parts together to the specified torque from the axle nut. All the pinch bolts do is fix the axle-wheel-spacer assembly to the fork. The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. So if you have some play, that would be normal given the minor tolerances in the sliders and bushings.

 

https://vfrworld.com/threads/front-wheel-spacers.58785/#post-619785

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On 1/1/2021 at 2:34 AM, VideoGuy said:

I'm the person that started the thread on the other forum. I had some concerns after having a shop mount new tires for me, and after looking at what's going on down there you can see the axle has a chamfered edge on the left that when tightened pushes all the moving parts together to the specified torque from the axle nut. All the pinch bolts do is fix the axle-wheel-spacer assembly to the fork. The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. So if you have some play, that would be normal given the minor tolerances in the sliders and bushings.

 

https://vfrworld.com/threads/front-wheel-spacers.58785/#post-619785

Glad you have it sorted hopefully.

 

My mention of the axle fully seated once the axle bolt is tightened was probably not the right choice of words. Tightening the axle bolt pulls all the components (collars, bearings, internal wheel spacer and right fork) together except for the left fork. Then after the "pumping of the forks" the left pinch bolt is tightened to lock the fork position to the axle, its natural position should be flush to the end of the axle Or very near to it!

Hopefully your left fork does this and you don't have any nasty issues with your fork alignment or problem with the fork itself.

 

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6 hours ago, VideoGuy said:

I'm the person that started the thread on the other forum. I had some concerns after having a shop mount new tires for me, and after looking at what's going on down there you can see the axle has a chamfered edge on the left that when tightened pushes all the moving parts together to the specified torque from the axle nut. All the pinch bolts do is fix the axle-wheel-spacer assembly to the fork. The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. So if you have some play, that would be normal given the minor tolerances in the sliders and bushings.

 

https://vfrworld.com/threads/front-wheel-spacers.58785/#post-619785

Thanks for clarifications. Now, after bumping forks, one should NOT waggle left fork-end right? Otherwise it'll disturb centering of fork-slider and cause extra stiction.

 

What I want to know is,.... Where does OP's left-fork end up in relation to axle-end after bouncing front-end ???

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On 12/31/2020 at 4:23 PM, DannoXYZ said:

Thanks for clarifications. Now, after bumping forks, one should NOT waggle left fork-end right? Otherwise it'll disturb centering of fork-slider and cause extra stiction.

 

What I want to know is,.... Where does OP's left-fork end up in relation to axle-end after bouncing front-end ???

All I can add is my axle is almost exactly the way it's pictured in the OP's post. SLIGHTLY inside the edge of the fork casting. Haven't had any problems!

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well, that was Grum's photo showing axle-end pretty much flush with fork. I think OP got bent out of shape because he was able to move his fork 3-4mm laterally. If he had just left it where it ended up after bouncing and tightened pinch-bolt, it'll be fine.

 

I don't think he realised that when axle-bolt was tightened, that it pulled everything on axle together (spacers, collars, wheel). I think he assumed that 3-4 lateral movement in left fork-end meant that wheel could move 3-4mm laterally.

 

He never posted actual photo of where his axle ended up. I'm assuming he's got worn fork bushings and seals on his bike.

 

 

 

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I think the OP (Loftur) gave up on this chat a while back. He wasn’t happy.

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On 12/31/2020 at 4:34 PM, VideoGuy said:

The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction.

Assuming the brake calipers are in perfect working condition and not have any sticking caliper pistons or slide pins. I prefer to put a wedge in front of the wheel.

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33 minutes ago, V4 Rosso said:

Assuming the brake calipers are in perfect working condition and not have any sticking caliper pistons or slide pins. I prefer to put a wedge in front of the wheel.

Just for info, no slide pins on 8gen front calipers.

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On 1/2/2021 at 7:48 PM, V4 Rosso said:

Assuming the brake calipers are in perfect working condition and not have any sticking caliper pistons or slide pins. I prefer to put a wedge in front of the wheel.

How does that work?

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With the bike on the centerstand I put something in front of the front wheel so it can't move forward. When you stand in front of the bike it can be your foot. Grab the clipons and pull the bike towards you a couple of times. Done. Now you can tighten the pinch bolts.

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On 1/4/2021 at 11:51 AM, V4 Rosso said:

With the bike on the centerstand I put something in front of the front wheel so it can't move forward. When you stand in front of the bike it can be your foot. Grab the clipons and pull the bike towards you a couple of times. Done. Now you can tighten the pinch bolts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ah, I park the bike in a front wheel chock in my garage, so I don't have to do anything to stop the wheel from moving. Thought there might be some mystery use for a wedge!

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Ah, but like videoguy said: "The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. " and you won't be able to do that with the bike held upright by the wheel chock.

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On 1/11/2021 at 6:32 PM, V4 Rosso said:

Ah, but like videoguy said: "The bumping of the forks is to align the tubes at the bottom of the fork to help eliminate some stiction. " and you won't be able to do that with the bike held upright by the wheel chock.

Why not? The chock I use simply holds the wheel upright by gripping the tire on the bottom and front, the forks are still free to move on the axle to allow them to align.

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